As I write my final blog entry I am feeling, at once, sad and happy and I trust I am not alone. It is hard to say goodbye to new friends. For some, the thought of going back to the cold and to regular life is barely more attractive that the 20 cramped hours we face in the airplane. Two weeks in a group this size is rewarding but equally tiring. I welcome some time and space alone to process and regroup... and to consciously consider how I can incorporate my profound sense of belonging I enjoy at this very moment into my daily life at work and life at home in general.
Being a Developing World Connections team leader is a significant responsibility and an honour. I am sure that the work our group accomplished and the houses we left behind, in and of themselves, is valuable to those we served. But the connections we made with each other and the Cambodians is, I believe, what will inspire us most as individuals to not let this experience end here. This is the beginning. I know this group feels as though the perspective we have gained and the generosity we have enjoyed from the Cambodian people has equaled or outweighed the contributions we have made. Our greatest collective legacy will be the culmination of all the individual changes we make in ourselves and in our own communities. We return humbled and inspired global citizens.
I have enjoyed writing this blog and sharing this experience with whoever may be interested. I can only hope I have successfully painted a picture of this meaningful adventure. However, if words are my brush, my thoughts my paint and this blog my canvass, I fear I have only offered you, the reader, at best a childlike sketch. Using words alone, I can not express to you what this all means. Perhaps the best I can do is implore you to have a Developing World Connections experience. If you have already done a meaningful adventure, do it again. In my capacity as as an employee of Developing World Connections, I would be happy to have you join us – like any non-profit, we count on people's generosity to operate and offer our services to others. But please consider my invitation a personal one. I want you to do it for you. Serve others and help yourself. There is a grassroots movement of concerned global citizens who want to make the world a better place. Bit by bit, our numbers are growing and sooner than later the culmination of our action will force an inexorable and lasting change. Change, I can see, doesn't necessarily require pain and sacrifice. On the contrary, fun, meaning and adventure should be part of the process. Developing World Connections makes it easier.
Have a meaningful adventure. Together we can change the world and find the peace, joy and contentment we all deserve.
Monday, December 29, 2008
Reflections.
As I reflect on everything that has happened over these past weeks, I find three main themes recurring, entering my train of thought:
1.The people of Cambodia
2. The group experience
3. Our place in the process
The Cambodia People: For me, the joy of Cambodia is its people. Certainly, its artifacts, its vistas and its novelties are beautiful and intriguing in their own rights. However, the greatest beauty I have seen daily is in people's smiles. Cambodians are at times quite shy, other times more assertive and pushy, but most of all, polite and hospitable. This is a high context culture and one whose intricacies I have navigated only at the surface level. But, I feel welcome in Cambodia. I feel generally valued in Cambodia. I felt like it matters that I am here. Cambodians strike me as present and quick to smile and laugh. I have experienced inspiring humility.
Cambodia is forgiving.... and all of this in light of its bloody and brutal past and the injustices, inequalities and immense challenges it still faces. Could it be that having lost everything but hope itself, Cambodians have gained something intangible that many westerners seek so desperately? Can it be that some who have it all have lost something more precious? I can only speculate but my guess is that the self-help industry may find it harder to penetrate the Cambodian market. So delightful are the people that it is hard to reconcile this country's reality with one's experience of it; it does become easier, after the initial shock, to filter out the poverty. In philosophical terms, Cambodia possesses a wealth of spirit and being that isn't as easily visible to me in my smaller world in Canada...even though I know it exists. But, otherwise, Cambodia is poor, very poor. Poverty is easily exploited. Cambodia needs our solidarity. It needs more Developing World Connections volunteer participants.
Our group can be proud because we were part of this country's healing. We are leaving this country a little bit better than when we first arrived, dignity in tact ... we are leaving as better people, ourselves more dignified. Thank you Cambodia. Akun Kampuchea. Thank you Kep, Chamcar Bei, and BAB. Kinyon Sraline Kampuchea. I love Cambodia.
The Group Experience:
This group – what a pleasant surprise. I worked hard to bring this group together and not for entirely unselfish reasons. My ego would have me believe I have a keen ability to find great people, but, truth be known, they found me and I am humble enough to admit I was lucky. For a group this size, I was pleasantly surprised at how we got along and we all shared tender moments, learning from each other. We could all relate to one another and we did in a way we could have never done within the context of 'normal life'. We worked hard together. We played hard together. We had disagreements. We had romance. We had personal discover. Life long friendships have come out of this experience. We all have a common bond: Cambodia, December 2008, Developing World Connections.
The process:
As team leader, I enjoyed my role in this process. I had my fun, but team leading is work, albeit a privileged and highly enjoyable form of it. Being in a developing country is a unique experience with its privileges and challenges. One can never truly prepare themselves for how they will react when what we imagine and see on television become real..... when all of your senses take it in... when you breath reality and look into a person's eyes. Everyone reacts differently and at different times. There is no judgement in how people react and there is no good or bad way to be. Personally, I find it very interesting to observe people when they are challenged and taken out of their comfort zone. People's reactions reveal much about their personality and experience. I can't speak directly for each participant, but I do know this experience has changed each person for the better. This is my juice. I am a global citizen, but these are my people from my neck of the woods. Witnessing their transformations is my motivation. Contemplating the impact they will have as they incorporate this experiences into their daily routines reinforces why I am part of all of this.
At home it is easier to ignore the injustice and suffering of people. In a developing country, one's eyes are forced open and blindness is an option only for the coldest and saddest amongst us. Sometimes we need a little shove to remind us of what is important about being human. Interest rates, 'getting ahead', fashion, money, status, power, and keeping up with the Joneses all of the sudden becomes less important. Could it be that what makes us human – and ultimately happy - is our in-born desire to love and support other humans? Could it be that learning about the world through a glass tube just isn't enough to understand how we are all connected? I can see plain as day that when you have the opportunity to connect with another human being who has nothing in common with you but your humanity, a window of hope and meaning opens up. This is our process – we are opening these windows. Whatever happens is up to each one of us by my guess is that bit by bit we will all breath a little bit easier. Poverty is daunting. Greed is daunting. This world is a dangerous place. It is hard not to feel powerless. It is easy to be a cynic and hide behind a smug, protective shell. What does the cynic say?: “Poverty tourism”, “Guilt alleviation”. No matter, the cynic hasn't experienced what I have these past weeks. I see the twinkle in the eye of my participants and as I witness their generosity of spirit I know, as sure as day, that hope is not lost.
1.The people of Cambodia
2. The group experience
3. Our place in the process
The Cambodia People: For me, the joy of Cambodia is its people. Certainly, its artifacts, its vistas and its novelties are beautiful and intriguing in their own rights. However, the greatest beauty I have seen daily is in people's smiles. Cambodians are at times quite shy, other times more assertive and pushy, but most of all, polite and hospitable. This is a high context culture and one whose intricacies I have navigated only at the surface level. But, I feel welcome in Cambodia. I feel generally valued in Cambodia. I felt like it matters that I am here. Cambodians strike me as present and quick to smile and laugh. I have experienced inspiring humility.
Cambodia is forgiving.... and all of this in light of its bloody and brutal past and the injustices, inequalities and immense challenges it still faces. Could it be that having lost everything but hope itself, Cambodians have gained something intangible that many westerners seek so desperately? Can it be that some who have it all have lost something more precious? I can only speculate but my guess is that the self-help industry may find it harder to penetrate the Cambodian market. So delightful are the people that it is hard to reconcile this country's reality with one's experience of it; it does become easier, after the initial shock, to filter out the poverty. In philosophical terms, Cambodia possesses a wealth of spirit and being that isn't as easily visible to me in my smaller world in Canada...even though I know it exists. But, otherwise, Cambodia is poor, very poor. Poverty is easily exploited. Cambodia needs our solidarity. It needs more Developing World Connections volunteer participants.
Our group can be proud because we were part of this country's healing. We are leaving this country a little bit better than when we first arrived, dignity in tact ... we are leaving as better people, ourselves more dignified. Thank you Cambodia. Akun Kampuchea. Thank you Kep, Chamcar Bei, and BAB. Kinyon Sraline Kampuchea. I love Cambodia.
The Group Experience:
This group – what a pleasant surprise. I worked hard to bring this group together and not for entirely unselfish reasons. My ego would have me believe I have a keen ability to find great people, but, truth be known, they found me and I am humble enough to admit I was lucky. For a group this size, I was pleasantly surprised at how we got along and we all shared tender moments, learning from each other. We could all relate to one another and we did in a way we could have never done within the context of 'normal life'. We worked hard together. We played hard together. We had disagreements. We had romance. We had personal discover. Life long friendships have come out of this experience. We all have a common bond: Cambodia, December 2008, Developing World Connections.
The process:
As team leader, I enjoyed my role in this process. I had my fun, but team leading is work, albeit a privileged and highly enjoyable form of it. Being in a developing country is a unique experience with its privileges and challenges. One can never truly prepare themselves for how they will react when what we imagine and see on television become real..... when all of your senses take it in... when you breath reality and look into a person's eyes. Everyone reacts differently and at different times. There is no judgement in how people react and there is no good or bad way to be. Personally, I find it very interesting to observe people when they are challenged and taken out of their comfort zone. People's reactions reveal much about their personality and experience. I can't speak directly for each participant, but I do know this experience has changed each person for the better. This is my juice. I am a global citizen, but these are my people from my neck of the woods. Witnessing their transformations is my motivation. Contemplating the impact they will have as they incorporate this experiences into their daily routines reinforces why I am part of all of this.
At home it is easier to ignore the injustice and suffering of people. In a developing country, one's eyes are forced open and blindness is an option only for the coldest and saddest amongst us. Sometimes we need a little shove to remind us of what is important about being human. Interest rates, 'getting ahead', fashion, money, status, power, and keeping up with the Joneses all of the sudden becomes less important. Could it be that what makes us human – and ultimately happy - is our in-born desire to love and support other humans? Could it be that learning about the world through a glass tube just isn't enough to understand how we are all connected? I can see plain as day that when you have the opportunity to connect with another human being who has nothing in common with you but your humanity, a window of hope and meaning opens up. This is our process – we are opening these windows. Whatever happens is up to each one of us by my guess is that bit by bit we will all breath a little bit easier. Poverty is daunting. Greed is daunting. This world is a dangerous place. It is hard not to feel powerless. It is easy to be a cynic and hide behind a smug, protective shell. What does the cynic say?: “Poverty tourism”, “Guilt alleviation”. No matter, the cynic hasn't experienced what I have these past weeks. I see the twinkle in the eye of my participants and as I witness their generosity of spirit I know, as sure as day, that hope is not lost.
Team Leader's Thoughts.
December 20th:
My in-country responsibilities of team leader are now complete. This morning Boonang took his final trip delivered those who must go home to the airport. We hugged. We said our," see ya later's". It was emotional. It was time. It has been a challenging, enjoyable and personally rewarding experience. Possessing an intimate understanding of the energy and skill required to successfully carry out an international volunteer experience from start to finish, I have a renewed admiration and respect for the volunteer cadre of Developing World Connections team leaders. On paper, a good team leader is organized, knowledgeable, good with people and a proactive problem solver, and this is true in practice. But for me, above all, this experience has challenged my notion of leadership and helped me improve on these skills. This group consisted of my own peers who are, in their own rights, very accomplished. Many are natural type A leaders. For those who excel at directing and managing people at home, I can appreciate the opposite challenge of letting go, being directed and trusting the process.
Any team leader can expect to be asked questions to which they won't necessarily have answers. I would highly recommend this experience to anyone in the business of wanting to improve their leadership and team work skills. I needed this experience to be reminded that true leadership is finding that fine and dynamic balance between being, at once, the assertive, confident, directive and decisive leader, and the leader who listens carefully and can build consensus. If this group is a microcosm for people in society in general, I have learned that any good leader must show the way with confidence and humility, and be transparent when the way isn't clear; he must involve people but make a timely decision; he must be committed to an idea and a process, but not married to the outcome. Earning people's trust is an achievement. Earning people's respect is an achievement. Earning people's trust and respect simultaneously is an admirable achievement. I don't pretend to great leadership, but I can say without hesitation that everybody was safe, comfortable and had a meaningful experience. To this extent, at very least, I am proud to report that this international volunteer experience was a resounding success.
Happy to be relieved of my duties and a bit overtired, it would be easy for me to romanticize the experience but trust me, we have had all had our ups and downs. Being in a group and in a developing country is not always easy and not for everybody. I come by my intentions in writing this blog honestly: I want people to better understand this experience; I want people to become interested in Developing World Connections; I want you to become part of the process. Yes, I have personal and professional vested interests, but they are valid and benevolent. You must not worry about having to read between the lines. My words are heartfelt and genuine.
My in-country responsibilities of team leader are now complete. This morning Boonang took his final trip delivered those who must go home to the airport. We hugged. We said our," see ya later's". It was emotional. It was time. It has been a challenging, enjoyable and personally rewarding experience. Possessing an intimate understanding of the energy and skill required to successfully carry out an international volunteer experience from start to finish, I have a renewed admiration and respect for the volunteer cadre of Developing World Connections team leaders. On paper, a good team leader is organized, knowledgeable, good with people and a proactive problem solver, and this is true in practice. But for me, above all, this experience has challenged my notion of leadership and helped me improve on these skills. This group consisted of my own peers who are, in their own rights, very accomplished. Many are natural type A leaders. For those who excel at directing and managing people at home, I can appreciate the opposite challenge of letting go, being directed and trusting the process.
Any team leader can expect to be asked questions to which they won't necessarily have answers. I would highly recommend this experience to anyone in the business of wanting to improve their leadership and team work skills. I needed this experience to be reminded that true leadership is finding that fine and dynamic balance between being, at once, the assertive, confident, directive and decisive leader, and the leader who listens carefully and can build consensus. If this group is a microcosm for people in society in general, I have learned that any good leader must show the way with confidence and humility, and be transparent when the way isn't clear; he must involve people but make a timely decision; he must be committed to an idea and a process, but not married to the outcome. Earning people's trust is an achievement. Earning people's respect is an achievement. Earning people's trust and respect simultaneously is an admirable achievement. I don't pretend to great leadership, but I can say without hesitation that everybody was safe, comfortable and had a meaningful experience. To this extent, at very least, I am proud to report that this international volunteer experience was a resounding success.
Happy to be relieved of my duties and a bit overtired, it would be easy for me to romanticize the experience but trust me, we have had all had our ups and downs. Being in a group and in a developing country is not always easy and not for everybody. I come by my intentions in writing this blog honestly: I want people to better understand this experience; I want people to become interested in Developing World Connections; I want you to become part of the process. Yes, I have personal and professional vested interests, but they are valid and benevolent. You must not worry about having to read between the lines. My words are heartfelt and genuine.
Last day as Developing World Connections participants.
December 19th:
This was our last official day as Developing World Connections participants. We spent the morning at the Tuol Sleng Genocide museum. We saw an impacting video and toured the grounds. There is so much I could write here but I will resist the temptation. Anyone who goes to Cambodia must visit this museum and learn about this country's painful history. What occurred here, inside what used to be a high school, was barbarous, inhuman, indescribable, evil and disgusting. Humanity must never forget what happened here. People don't voluntarily discuss the past here, but if you ask, untold stories of loss and suffering are everywhere. I asked my tuk tuk driver about his family. At face value he was just another guy earning his living. Yet, this is a man who lost all five siblings and both parents under the Khmer Rouge. This is a man who has experienced a level of suffering, depravity and loss I can't even conceive. Yet, he drives me with a smile. He told me of his past with a nervous laughter and in such a matter-of-fact kind of way that it makes reconciling his state of being and his experience very difficult.... as it does reconciling the reality of this country's past with its present. Are people's shy smiles a function of its culture or a symptom of a nation-wide case of post traumatic stress? Cambodia is very intriguing.
Visiting this museum provided more meaning and context to the experiences we have had in the past weeks. How is it that to this day, at this moment, there is still genocide and our international community refuses to take the necessary affirmative and collective action? I was inspired to learn more about what is happening in Africa today and consider my small role in ending it.
After lunch we had the afternoon to ourselves to explore Phnom Pehn. The markets here are phenomenal. I bought more trinkets and memorabilia and for the cost of one month of cable, I bought enough commercial free documentaries to last me months. Some of us also visited the national palace and admired the gold, silver and diamonds and fantastic architecture. We learned about the different kind of Buddhas. I can appreciate the importance of history and tradition, but something about seeing this kind of opulence in a country whose people suffer from scarcity just bothers me. Yet, who am I to judge? I suppose, as a Canadian, I am technically a royal subject as well, though not by choice. Given the recent political events in Canada, I can also suppose that on the odd occasion our royal representatives can actually come in handy.
By this time most of the original group has reunited for what would be our last dinner. We took this time to enjoy everyone's company all together, perhaps for the last time ever, and to reflect on our favorite memories. Erinn spoke of witnessing a little girl placing flowers on the graves of the last people who perished at Tuol Sleng and how it served as an emotional reminder of how recently this tragedy occurred. Sherilyn told us of her experience working the rice fields and connection with the people. For her, witnessing and participating in their way of life, if only momentarily, was a way of connecting to her own ancestors. Shalen spoke of the moments we all shared at the hotel sitting on the deck watching the sunrise. For her, these sweet moments were a reminder that everyday is in some ways the same, and in others different... that we must live in the moment. Ben spoke of his moments playing soccer with the kids and doing drawings and the joy it brought him connecting at that level. Some spoke of the dance party with the kids, others about our good times singing songs on the bus ride home, others about their memories working on the houses. Saran and Christina joined us for dinner. In her broken English, Saran told us that she loved us and we knew she meant it. Christina shared her own experience in Cambodia and reminded us of how important we all are to the process.
At this time, the comments I had been hoping for but not expecting were being vocalized. I heard:
“ I wouldn't travel any other way.”
“This was a fantastic, life changing experience.”
“My eyes have been opened.”
“Thanks Jess.”
“I enjoyed the structure of the group, but being able to experience the country on my own terms.”
“Let's stay in touch.”
“I felt like I was part of the country and got to participate in its development.”
“I am going to volunteer at home.”
“I am going to Rwanda next with Developing World Connections.”
During these moments the group may not have known it by my outwardly expression, but I was gleaming with pride. We did it! To those on our team - DWC Cambodia, Dec. 2008 - thank you so much! I really, really, really, appreciate you being with us and contributing generously. We have collectively contributed $9,500 towards directly improving the lives of the Cambodia people we served. We built two dream houses. We painted a community centre. We contributed thousands and thousands of dollars to the Cambodian economy. We beared witness and made it known that we care about Cambodia. We made meaningful connections with each other and with the Cambodian people. Mission accomplished!
After dinner, we hopped in some tuk tuks. In Phnom Pehn, there is never a lack of tuk tuks or people to take you where you want to go cheaply and at any hour. As is the case in most developing countries, for those with money, a little money can go a long way. It is going to be hard to come home and pay as much for a cappuccino as I would for a meal here. Goods and services are cheap, especially services. I still haven't figured out exactly how tipping works here, but, at these prices, one need not hesitate to do it.
Anyhow, we all went out and let's just say good times were had. Sorry folks, sometimes what happens in Cambodia stays in Cambodia. Wink, wink, nudge, nudge. Good times!
This was our last official day as Developing World Connections participants. We spent the morning at the Tuol Sleng Genocide museum. We saw an impacting video and toured the grounds. There is so much I could write here but I will resist the temptation. Anyone who goes to Cambodia must visit this museum and learn about this country's painful history. What occurred here, inside what used to be a high school, was barbarous, inhuman, indescribable, evil and disgusting. Humanity must never forget what happened here. People don't voluntarily discuss the past here, but if you ask, untold stories of loss and suffering are everywhere. I asked my tuk tuk driver about his family. At face value he was just another guy earning his living. Yet, this is a man who lost all five siblings and both parents under the Khmer Rouge. This is a man who has experienced a level of suffering, depravity and loss I can't even conceive. Yet, he drives me with a smile. He told me of his past with a nervous laughter and in such a matter-of-fact kind of way that it makes reconciling his state of being and his experience very difficult.... as it does reconciling the reality of this country's past with its present. Are people's shy smiles a function of its culture or a symptom of a nation-wide case of post traumatic stress? Cambodia is very intriguing.
Visiting this museum provided more meaning and context to the experiences we have had in the past weeks. How is it that to this day, at this moment, there is still genocide and our international community refuses to take the necessary affirmative and collective action? I was inspired to learn more about what is happening in Africa today and consider my small role in ending it.
After lunch we had the afternoon to ourselves to explore Phnom Pehn. The markets here are phenomenal. I bought more trinkets and memorabilia and for the cost of one month of cable, I bought enough commercial free documentaries to last me months. Some of us also visited the national palace and admired the gold, silver and diamonds and fantastic architecture. We learned about the different kind of Buddhas. I can appreciate the importance of history and tradition, but something about seeing this kind of opulence in a country whose people suffer from scarcity just bothers me. Yet, who am I to judge? I suppose, as a Canadian, I am technically a royal subject as well, though not by choice. Given the recent political events in Canada, I can also suppose that on the odd occasion our royal representatives can actually come in handy.
By this time most of the original group has reunited for what would be our last dinner. We took this time to enjoy everyone's company all together, perhaps for the last time ever, and to reflect on our favorite memories. Erinn spoke of witnessing a little girl placing flowers on the graves of the last people who perished at Tuol Sleng and how it served as an emotional reminder of how recently this tragedy occurred. Sherilyn told us of her experience working the rice fields and connection with the people. For her, witnessing and participating in their way of life, if only momentarily, was a way of connecting to her own ancestors. Shalen spoke of the moments we all shared at the hotel sitting on the deck watching the sunrise. For her, these sweet moments were a reminder that everyday is in some ways the same, and in others different... that we must live in the moment. Ben spoke of his moments playing soccer with the kids and doing drawings and the joy it brought him connecting at that level. Some spoke of the dance party with the kids, others about our good times singing songs on the bus ride home, others about their memories working on the houses. Saran and Christina joined us for dinner. In her broken English, Saran told us that she loved us and we knew she meant it. Christina shared her own experience in Cambodia and reminded us of how important we all are to the process.
At this time, the comments I had been hoping for but not expecting were being vocalized. I heard:
“ I wouldn't travel any other way.”
“This was a fantastic, life changing experience.”
“My eyes have been opened.”
“Thanks Jess.”
“I enjoyed the structure of the group, but being able to experience the country on my own terms.”
“Let's stay in touch.”
“I felt like I was part of the country and got to participate in its development.”
“I am going to volunteer at home.”
“I am going to Rwanda next with Developing World Connections.”
During these moments the group may not have known it by my outwardly expression, but I was gleaming with pride. We did it! To those on our team - DWC Cambodia, Dec. 2008 - thank you so much! I really, really, really, appreciate you being with us and contributing generously. We have collectively contributed $9,500 towards directly improving the lives of the Cambodia people we served. We built two dream houses. We painted a community centre. We contributed thousands and thousands of dollars to the Cambodian economy. We beared witness and made it known that we care about Cambodia. We made meaningful connections with each other and with the Cambodian people. Mission accomplished!
After dinner, we hopped in some tuk tuks. In Phnom Pehn, there is never a lack of tuk tuks or people to take you where you want to go cheaply and at any hour. As is the case in most developing countries, for those with money, a little money can go a long way. It is going to be hard to come home and pay as much for a cappuccino as I would for a meal here. Goods and services are cheap, especially services. I still haven't figured out exactly how tipping works here, but, at these prices, one need not hesitate to do it.
Anyhow, we all went out and let's just say good times were had. Sorry folks, sometimes what happens in Cambodia stays in Cambodia. Wink, wink, nudge, nudge. Good times!
Enroute to Phnom Pehn.
December 18th:
Several people decided to leave one day early to go see Siem Reap and Angkor Wat before meeting up with the rest of us in Phnom Pehn. For those of us who stayed, today was a physically and emotionally exhausting one but also the most rewarding on several levels. I can speak for many of us when I say that we are now physically tired. We have been working hard and playing hard for almost two weeks now. Personally, I can't remember the last time I have existed on such little sleep and I envy the drive and energy of my counterparts. The physical exertion, late nights and heat have finally caught up with me.....I am fighting the urge to close my eyes but don't for fear of not wanting to wake up for days.
As I write, we are on the bus on our way back to Phnom Pehn. I was sad to leave the peace and tranquility of Kep, the ocean, and, above all, all the new friends I have made. Boonang, our fearless driver, is honking the horn incessantly as we pass family after family piled on scooters, sometimes four or five at a time. The honking will help me stay awake. I whisper silently to myself: “Resist the temptation Rothenburger. Resist.”
Perhaps it is the tiredness, but I am feeling a little overwhelmed right now. I have seen and experienced so much in the past couple of weeks that I can't process it fast enough. I expect I will spend the next months digesting it all. I expect we all will. I feel that I have so much to say but my mind is racing faster than my fingers can type. I can scarcely complete a sentence before my thoughts have skipped ahead to my next memory, emotion and reflection.
When we get to Phnom Pehn we are all free the evening. As for me, I plan to eat, get a massage and sleep.
Several people decided to leave one day early to go see Siem Reap and Angkor Wat before meeting up with the rest of us in Phnom Pehn. For those of us who stayed, today was a physically and emotionally exhausting one but also the most rewarding on several levels. I can speak for many of us when I say that we are now physically tired. We have been working hard and playing hard for almost two weeks now. Personally, I can't remember the last time I have existed on such little sleep and I envy the drive and energy of my counterparts. The physical exertion, late nights and heat have finally caught up with me.....I am fighting the urge to close my eyes but don't for fear of not wanting to wake up for days.
As I write, we are on the bus on our way back to Phnom Pehn. I was sad to leave the peace and tranquility of Kep, the ocean, and, above all, all the new friends I have made. Boonang, our fearless driver, is honking the horn incessantly as we pass family after family piled on scooters, sometimes four or five at a time. The honking will help me stay awake. I whisper silently to myself: “Resist the temptation Rothenburger. Resist.”
Perhaps it is the tiredness, but I am feeling a little overwhelmed right now. I have seen and experienced so much in the past couple of weeks that I can't process it fast enough. I expect I will spend the next months digesting it all. I expect we all will. I feel that I have so much to say but my mind is racing faster than my fingers can type. I can scarcely complete a sentence before my thoughts have skipped ahead to my next memory, emotion and reflection.
When we get to Phnom Pehn we are all free the evening. As for me, I plan to eat, get a massage and sleep.
A little love goes a long way.
December 17th:
In the morning we worked at the composting bin. We were told we would be 'composting' and we were all very curious to know what this would entail. We spent the morning gathering up shrubs and chopping them into little pieces with machetes. Essentially, over the course of several hours, our group accomplished what a small gas powered machine could accomplish in one. But, this wasn't the point. When in Cambodia do as the Cambodians do. We were together. We were learning. The real purpose wasn't lost though. By this point, we have mostly let go of the 'get things done as fast and efficiently as possible' way of thinking. Things are different in Cambodia. People are different. I think we are all now a little different.
Tired, we took an early lunch and feasted on what would be our last meal prepared by my favorite Cambodian cook (and my favorite Cambodian) – Saran! For me this was the best meal I have had in Cambodia. She prepared ample amounts of curry crab. Have I mentioned yet that I love crab? Anyhow, she prepared enough crab for everyone but because some had left early we enjoyed a surplus. I am pleased to report that we (especially the boys) took one for the team and stuffed ourselves silly. Let's just say I didn't eat dinner that night.
In the afternoon we spent almost three hours playing with the kids at the Children's Learning Centre and we played hard. We sang, we danced, we played a number of games and generally enjoyed each other's company. These kids aren't shy and like getting their pictures taken. I enjoyed the fact that they were as interested in us as we in them. They sang the alphabet for us and some showed off their surprisingly good English skills. We did our English rendition of Old MacDonald had a farm and they did their Khmer version. Who knew that pigs, dogs and chickens make different sounds in Cambodia? Ben what a hit with his guitar and enjoyed one of his most enthralled audiences to date (his words, not mine). Ben and I had a contest to see how many kids we could have hanging off of us at one time. We tied at 6 each. Kyle kept busy throwing the balls around and playing catch. Bobbi, Sherilyn and Shalen kept the kids entertained with group games. I can't remember what Tommy was up to, but my best guess is some sort of gymnastics. As I recall, there was an impromptu game of bowling using a water bottle and a ball. We formed a human pyramid – don't worry, the kids were on top. We gave tons of piggie back rides.
I found it interesting how well behaved these kids were. They were very interested in our things as well, like our sunglasses and cameras. Our items were passed around. Yet, they treated our things with respect and even if we didn't expect some things back, they all came back to us safe and sound. We had all brought a significant amount of donations but we were all wishing we had brought more. Note to self: next time bring more things to play with like soccer balls. It was also neat to see how the girls naturally tended to conglomerate with the ladies and the boys with the men. We were equally fascinated with one another. These hours were the highlight of my trip. Two boys in particular decided that I was theirs. From when we arrived until we left one or the other was literally stuck to me. Towards the end as we sang song, they were getting tired and were both falling asleep on my lap. As they nodded off it was so cute as they clambered and competed for my lap space. I felt really special and they didn't need to say a word. It warmed my heart. Thanks to these boys I have discovered in myself that someday I will be a Dad...I'll be ready. Thanks guys. Akun. As the bus left the entire school saw us of. We high-five'd. We waved. We blew kisses. There were eyes filled with tears.
In keeping with tradition, we made our way back to the hotel, cracked a few cold beers and watched the sunset, basking in the moment and reveling in what a great day we had.
Just when I though this day couldn't get any better, it did. Our group was privileged to be in Kep at the same time BAB in Cambodia was doing its strategic planning session with virtually all its staff and volunteers. BAB was kind enough to invite us to join them for dinner at a cozy and spacious beach side restaurant. There were probably 50 people or more present. BAB has volunteers from all around the world and we met people from Australia, Scotland and the US. Wow, these volunteers have it all: skills, generous spirits and good looks. There is something special going on here.
After dinner our group started some impromptu dancing which evolved into a full fledged party. We drank and danced and enjoyed some international group bonding on the dock. We cranked up some Queen, some Abba and some U2. By this time I still hadn't figured out exactly what our group itinerary was for the next day but I indulged again in a few hours of completely care free moments.
Some people went home relatively early and others welcomed in the morning. Earlier that evening I attached myself to an old dog who had evidently just become a mother. I am an animal lover so, unable to resist, I had to pet her, again tossing out the health nurse's recomendations. The dog welcomed my attention and she returned the favour. She and her doggie counterpart walked us stragglers home a far distance to the hotel. They weren't just following us – they had come to protect us, not a word of a lie. They walked us right to our doorstep and waking up the next morning, some participants must have wondered why there was a dog out their front door. This day was full of love. A little love it seems can go a long way.
This is my kind of travel.
In the morning we worked at the composting bin. We were told we would be 'composting' and we were all very curious to know what this would entail. We spent the morning gathering up shrubs and chopping them into little pieces with machetes. Essentially, over the course of several hours, our group accomplished what a small gas powered machine could accomplish in one. But, this wasn't the point. When in Cambodia do as the Cambodians do. We were together. We were learning. The real purpose wasn't lost though. By this point, we have mostly let go of the 'get things done as fast and efficiently as possible' way of thinking. Things are different in Cambodia. People are different. I think we are all now a little different.
Tired, we took an early lunch and feasted on what would be our last meal prepared by my favorite Cambodian cook (and my favorite Cambodian) – Saran! For me this was the best meal I have had in Cambodia. She prepared ample amounts of curry crab. Have I mentioned yet that I love crab? Anyhow, she prepared enough crab for everyone but because some had left early we enjoyed a surplus. I am pleased to report that we (especially the boys) took one for the team and stuffed ourselves silly. Let's just say I didn't eat dinner that night.
In the afternoon we spent almost three hours playing with the kids at the Children's Learning Centre and we played hard. We sang, we danced, we played a number of games and generally enjoyed each other's company. These kids aren't shy and like getting their pictures taken. I enjoyed the fact that they were as interested in us as we in them. They sang the alphabet for us and some showed off their surprisingly good English skills. We did our English rendition of Old MacDonald had a farm and they did their Khmer version. Who knew that pigs, dogs and chickens make different sounds in Cambodia? Ben what a hit with his guitar and enjoyed one of his most enthralled audiences to date (his words, not mine). Ben and I had a contest to see how many kids we could have hanging off of us at one time. We tied at 6 each. Kyle kept busy throwing the balls around and playing catch. Bobbi, Sherilyn and Shalen kept the kids entertained with group games. I can't remember what Tommy was up to, but my best guess is some sort of gymnastics. As I recall, there was an impromptu game of bowling using a water bottle and a ball. We formed a human pyramid – don't worry, the kids were on top. We gave tons of piggie back rides.
I found it interesting how well behaved these kids were. They were very interested in our things as well, like our sunglasses and cameras. Our items were passed around. Yet, they treated our things with respect and even if we didn't expect some things back, they all came back to us safe and sound. We had all brought a significant amount of donations but we were all wishing we had brought more. Note to self: next time bring more things to play with like soccer balls. It was also neat to see how the girls naturally tended to conglomerate with the ladies and the boys with the men. We were equally fascinated with one another. These hours were the highlight of my trip. Two boys in particular decided that I was theirs. From when we arrived until we left one or the other was literally stuck to me. Towards the end as we sang song, they were getting tired and were both falling asleep on my lap. As they nodded off it was so cute as they clambered and competed for my lap space. I felt really special and they didn't need to say a word. It warmed my heart. Thanks to these boys I have discovered in myself that someday I will be a Dad...I'll be ready. Thanks guys. Akun. As the bus left the entire school saw us of. We high-five'd. We waved. We blew kisses. There were eyes filled with tears.
In keeping with tradition, we made our way back to the hotel, cracked a few cold beers and watched the sunset, basking in the moment and reveling in what a great day we had.
Just when I though this day couldn't get any better, it did. Our group was privileged to be in Kep at the same time BAB in Cambodia was doing its strategic planning session with virtually all its staff and volunteers. BAB was kind enough to invite us to join them for dinner at a cozy and spacious beach side restaurant. There were probably 50 people or more present. BAB has volunteers from all around the world and we met people from Australia, Scotland and the US. Wow, these volunteers have it all: skills, generous spirits and good looks. There is something special going on here.
After dinner our group started some impromptu dancing which evolved into a full fledged party. We drank and danced and enjoyed some international group bonding on the dock. We cranked up some Queen, some Abba and some U2. By this time I still hadn't figured out exactly what our group itinerary was for the next day but I indulged again in a few hours of completely care free moments.
Some people went home relatively early and others welcomed in the morning. Earlier that evening I attached myself to an old dog who had evidently just become a mother. I am an animal lover so, unable to resist, I had to pet her, again tossing out the health nurse's recomendations. The dog welcomed my attention and she returned the favour. She and her doggie counterpart walked us stragglers home a far distance to the hotel. They weren't just following us – they had come to protect us, not a word of a lie. They walked us right to our doorstep and waking up the next morning, some participants must have wondered why there was a dog out their front door. This day was full of love. A little love it seems can go a long way.
This is my kind of travel.
Inspired Poems
This feeling called free - April Hoffman:
Come over me
this feeling called free
full moon
full hearth
with purity sings
thatched rood for a shelter
and mud on the walls
my heart starts yearning when
Cambodia calls
Beautiful people
with welcoming smiles
the change in my soul
to carry for miles
A Cambodian Rice Field - Chrystie Stewart:
This morning I sat in a rice field
My elbow perched on my knees
I looked throug the swaying fields
And I felt the rythm of being free
For us this is a choice
And one we may not make
For them it does not mattter
A liberty they cannot take
But that little boy still laughs and smiles
And I wonder what he thinks
Even the cows seem to have an opinion
When they offer up a wink
Today is the day of harverst
It happens but once a year
It is us that is here to help them
But making things worse is my fear
Do they feel like they are on display
Is it possible this is poverty tourism
I wish there was some language
And maybe there is some in Bhuddism
Be gentle with these people
They have the same families as you and I
Listen carefully with your eyes when they show you
How to Chop rice with a sye
This morning I sat in a rice field
My elbows perched on my knee
As I watched that little boy laughing
I realized it was him that was trully free.
A Place called Cambodia – Ingrid Brakop
To the place called Cambodia
Baby here is my ode to you
You are a fine lady, hot and fierce but
Your people, they are loyal and stoic and free
My heart they do pierce
The children. The cows, the flea bag dogs
Yes, even the cockroach that trampled me
They are all a pleasure.
The dogs stare at us as the bus drives bye
They gotta be wondering, hey,
What's up with all the white guys?
The driver Boonang, he's quiet but skilled
He smiles everytime the bus hits a bump
And the girls in the back scream
Like they may be killed.
My heart aches at the garbage
That pollutes your canvass, your rivers and sky
But it's not my place to judge so
I just sit silently and watch it all go bye.
Despite the terror, despite the blood shed
Your people still welcome us and offer us a bed.
The food is divine, the markets are wild
The traffic is nuts
I think the people that live here have a lot of guts.
You've welcomed us, we have walked on your turf
We tasted the China Sea water and swam in your surf
I've laughed here – a whole lot.
I've cried here – yes, I have wept for the people that have died here.
For days now I stagger onto a bus
The driver, there he sits, no words, no fuss
I smile at him everyday and now he smiles back.
I no longer fear, I no longer judge
Heck, I saw people eating some snails from the sludge
You who have survived and once again you will thrive
I say this with passion and have written it in letters I've sent
I've never been so confident.
Cambodia – Ben Neilson/Christopher Seguin
Seen from a smile, spoken through eyes
Elderly wrinkles, innocence disguise
Yesteday's pain, rouge reign
Bloodshed horror of tomorrow's birth
From violence to silence, to forget or forgive
Bones of a generation, a nation will live
With westerners here, a Christmas fade
They interrogate, regenerate, the blood of the spade
Empty walls, roofed full of fears
Haunting whole hillsdie of five field years
I strike the nail, scrape the shale,
I paint the scars, rake the harvest
As one man, in two shoes
A third world spread the news
I meet Cambodia,
With a crying ode to ya
You get what you give, so give what you have
Like a look, love or laugh
My song through static
Is comfort in a hammock
Come over me
this feeling called free
full moon
full hearth
with purity sings
thatched rood for a shelter
and mud on the walls
my heart starts yearning when
Cambodia calls
Beautiful people
with welcoming smiles
the change in my soul
to carry for miles
A Cambodian Rice Field - Chrystie Stewart:
This morning I sat in a rice field
My elbow perched on my knees
I looked throug the swaying fields
And I felt the rythm of being free
For us this is a choice
And one we may not make
For them it does not mattter
A liberty they cannot take
But that little boy still laughs and smiles
And I wonder what he thinks
Even the cows seem to have an opinion
When they offer up a wink
Today is the day of harverst
It happens but once a year
It is us that is here to help them
But making things worse is my fear
Do they feel like they are on display
Is it possible this is poverty tourism
I wish there was some language
And maybe there is some in Bhuddism
Be gentle with these people
They have the same families as you and I
Listen carefully with your eyes when they show you
How to Chop rice with a sye
This morning I sat in a rice field
My elbows perched on my knee
As I watched that little boy laughing
I realized it was him that was trully free.
A Place called Cambodia – Ingrid Brakop
To the place called Cambodia
Baby here is my ode to you
You are a fine lady, hot and fierce but
Your people, they are loyal and stoic and free
My heart they do pierce
The children. The cows, the flea bag dogs
Yes, even the cockroach that trampled me
They are all a pleasure.
The dogs stare at us as the bus drives bye
They gotta be wondering, hey,
What's up with all the white guys?
The driver Boonang, he's quiet but skilled
He smiles everytime the bus hits a bump
And the girls in the back scream
Like they may be killed.
My heart aches at the garbage
That pollutes your canvass, your rivers and sky
But it's not my place to judge so
I just sit silently and watch it all go bye.
Despite the terror, despite the blood shed
Your people still welcome us and offer us a bed.
The food is divine, the markets are wild
The traffic is nuts
I think the people that live here have a lot of guts.
You've welcomed us, we have walked on your turf
We tasted the China Sea water and swam in your surf
I've laughed here – a whole lot.
I've cried here – yes, I have wept for the people that have died here.
For days now I stagger onto a bus
The driver, there he sits, no words, no fuss
I smile at him everyday and now he smiles back.
I no longer fear, I no longer judge
Heck, I saw people eating some snails from the sludge
You who have survived and once again you will thrive
I say this with passion and have written it in letters I've sent
I've never been so confident.
Cambodia – Ben Neilson/Christopher Seguin
Seen from a smile, spoken through eyes
Elderly wrinkles, innocence disguise
Yesteday's pain, rouge reign
Bloodshed horror of tomorrow's birth
From violence to silence, to forget or forgive
Bones of a generation, a nation will live
With westerners here, a Christmas fade
They interrogate, regenerate, the blood of the spade
Empty walls, roofed full of fears
Haunting whole hillsdie of five field years
I strike the nail, scrape the shale,
I paint the scars, rake the harvest
As one man, in two shoes
A third world spread the news
I meet Cambodia,
With a crying ode to ya
You get what you give, so give what you have
Like a look, love or laugh
My song through static
Is comfort in a hammock
Global Citizenship and meaningful connections.
December 16th:
Today we harvested rice in the morning and thrashed rice in the afternoon. The family whose plot we worked on was kind to allow us on their land and was exceedingly patient with us. Understanding the importance of this harvest and the immediate implications of rice going to waste, I was painfully careful to do it right. I feared being more of a burden than a help. I was impressed at how efficiently and quick this family was. I regret that tying bunches or rice together is not a skill I can honestly add to my resume. They make it look so easy but it's really difficult! We stumbled along and our collective inability was of great interest and amusement to the neighbours. They laughed openly at us and no offense was taken – we were a funny sight to behold. Using sharp blades to cut the rice, I managed to try and chop off my leg … I failed with only a scratch.
This was an opportunity for us to witness how most Cambodians live traditionally and have lived for countless generations. In this fashion, tradition and life itself is founded on family, religion and the land. Again, I hesitate to romanticize this way of living as people's weathered faces tell stories of hardship. As for me, don't get me wrong as I like my Facebook, my internet, my things and the occasion drive-thru. Yet, I can't help feeling that these people possess an intangible quality of living not so readily accessible to those of us who have been marketed to since birth. The Khmer Rouge tried to brutally and swiftly destroy this tradition of family and religion – a proud tradition that has, does and will continue to serve Cambodians well. In this light, the Khmer Rouge's radical leftist attempts easily reveal themselves to be little more than textbook hypocrisy, thuggish power mongering and pathological sadism. But, the Khmer Rouge failed. The Cambodian's ability to preserve this lifestyle despite everything gives me a reserved sense of hope that the inexorable forces of urbanization, capitalism, mechanization, technology and “progress” will not destroy it. Perhaps a balance exists whereby the benefits of modernization can be had in harmony with those of a simpler lifestyle as well. Perhaps this is true for us in the so-called “developed world” ... maybe a balance exists where we can benefit from money and the economy without living in service to it....a balance where greater value and appreciation is placed on things that are of a much more fundamental importance.
In the afternoon we proceeded to thrash the rice. Everything is done by hand. Nothing is taken for granted. The family was kind enough to offer us some refreshing coconut milk. We gestured, laughed and communicated the best we could and I felt the powerful connection was made between the locals and our group. For many I could tell today they experience a personal shift. I can't speak for everyone, but I think we gained some valuable perspective and a palpable feeling that no matter our differences, we are all essentially the same. We all want good food. We all love our families. We all want to be safe and secure. We all want to believe that things are getting better. The world felt small today. It is easy to see how it takes so little to make a meaningful connection between people... and how easy it is to care for others. The spirit of cooperation feels good. Global citizenship feels good.
Over dinner there was discussion about the experiences we have had. I was pleased to see that all of this was having an impact on people's thinking and perspective. Seeing is believing. Time will tell what comes out of all of this but I believe a trigger has been pulled inside of us.
Chrystie had the great idea to have a poetry contest. Each contestant put in a buck and the winner – by popular vote – got to keep the pot. The winner, by a narrow margin, was Shalen Curle. She did an animated rap for our group's ears only – sorry readers. But, I am happy to share that the following poems that were inspired by this trip and read over dinner.
Today we harvested rice in the morning and thrashed rice in the afternoon. The family whose plot we worked on was kind to allow us on their land and was exceedingly patient with us. Understanding the importance of this harvest and the immediate implications of rice going to waste, I was painfully careful to do it right. I feared being more of a burden than a help. I was impressed at how efficiently and quick this family was. I regret that tying bunches or rice together is not a skill I can honestly add to my resume. They make it look so easy but it's really difficult! We stumbled along and our collective inability was of great interest and amusement to the neighbours. They laughed openly at us and no offense was taken – we were a funny sight to behold. Using sharp blades to cut the rice, I managed to try and chop off my leg … I failed with only a scratch.
This was an opportunity for us to witness how most Cambodians live traditionally and have lived for countless generations. In this fashion, tradition and life itself is founded on family, religion and the land. Again, I hesitate to romanticize this way of living as people's weathered faces tell stories of hardship. As for me, don't get me wrong as I like my Facebook, my internet, my things and the occasion drive-thru. Yet, I can't help feeling that these people possess an intangible quality of living not so readily accessible to those of us who have been marketed to since birth. The Khmer Rouge tried to brutally and swiftly destroy this tradition of family and religion – a proud tradition that has, does and will continue to serve Cambodians well. In this light, the Khmer Rouge's radical leftist attempts easily reveal themselves to be little more than textbook hypocrisy, thuggish power mongering and pathological sadism. But, the Khmer Rouge failed. The Cambodian's ability to preserve this lifestyle despite everything gives me a reserved sense of hope that the inexorable forces of urbanization, capitalism, mechanization, technology and “progress” will not destroy it. Perhaps a balance exists whereby the benefits of modernization can be had in harmony with those of a simpler lifestyle as well. Perhaps this is true for us in the so-called “developed world” ... maybe a balance exists where we can benefit from money and the economy without living in service to it....a balance where greater value and appreciation is placed on things that are of a much more fundamental importance.
In the afternoon we proceeded to thrash the rice. Everything is done by hand. Nothing is taken for granted. The family was kind enough to offer us some refreshing coconut milk. We gestured, laughed and communicated the best we could and I felt the powerful connection was made between the locals and our group. For many I could tell today they experience a personal shift. I can't speak for everyone, but I think we gained some valuable perspective and a palpable feeling that no matter our differences, we are all essentially the same. We all want good food. We all love our families. We all want to be safe and secure. We all want to believe that things are getting better. The world felt small today. It is easy to see how it takes so little to make a meaningful connection between people... and how easy it is to care for others. The spirit of cooperation feels good. Global citizenship feels good.
Over dinner there was discussion about the experiences we have had. I was pleased to see that all of this was having an impact on people's thinking and perspective. Seeing is believing. Time will tell what comes out of all of this but I believe a trigger has been pulled inside of us.
Chrystie had the great idea to have a poetry contest. Each contestant put in a buck and the winner – by popular vote – got to keep the pot. The winner, by a narrow margin, was Shalen Curle. She did an animated rap for our group's ears only – sorry readers. But, I am happy to share that the following poems that were inspired by this trip and read over dinner.
Volunteering, work that becomes play
December 15th:
Back to work. We scraped. Joining forces, we painted and laboured as one large work group. Alas, we couldn't finish both buildings, but we made a large dent. By the end of the day, tired and weary, our work became play. We joked and laughed and entertained the locals, as usual.
By now I can tell that part of the romance of being in a developing country has worn off a bit. Developing World Connections makes it easier, but all the little things that are easy and we take for granted aren't easy here. Drinkable tap water: What a great idea! Garbage collection: What a fantastic idea! Fast internet: What a novelty! Traffic laws: Excellent concept! Shower curtains: Good thinking. Quality tools: How efficient. The list goes on. We aren't complaining, but by this time, even if we aren't nearly ready to go home, we know that there are aspects to the way we live we will welcome back into our routine.
Tonight's activities were especially fun and involved swimming. A digital camera - $200. A two week Developing World Connections experience - $1,800 CDN. A couple of drinks by the Kep Lodge pool - $5. A digital camera by the Kep Lodge pool after a couple of drinks with this Developing World Connections group – Priceless!
Back to work. We scraped. Joining forces, we painted and laboured as one large work group. Alas, we couldn't finish both buildings, but we made a large dent. By the end of the day, tired and weary, our work became play. We joked and laughed and entertained the locals, as usual.
By now I can tell that part of the romance of being in a developing country has worn off a bit. Developing World Connections makes it easier, but all the little things that are easy and we take for granted aren't easy here. Drinkable tap water: What a great idea! Garbage collection: What a fantastic idea! Fast internet: What a novelty! Traffic laws: Excellent concept! Shower curtains: Good thinking. Quality tools: How efficient. The list goes on. We aren't complaining, but by this time, even if we aren't nearly ready to go home, we know that there are aspects to the way we live we will welcome back into our routine.
Tonight's activities were especially fun and involved swimming. A digital camera - $200. A two week Developing World Connections experience - $1,800 CDN. A couple of drinks by the Kep Lodge pool - $5. A digital camera by the Kep Lodge pool after a couple of drinks with this Developing World Connections group – Priceless!
Relax and enjoy
December 14th:
Today's modus operandi: relaxation. I have nothing exciting to report and I hesitate to go too much in too detail so as not to make those at home in sub-zero weather jealous. Too bad – I can't resist. A small group decided to stay in Sianoukville the previous night in order to go scuba-diving and to shake it up. The rest of us took a 20 minute boat ride on the Gulf of Thailand to get to Rabbit Island. Rabbit Island is small and consists of little more than a sandy beach, clear water and a few food stalls. It was named Rabbit Island because apparently it looks like a rabbit. This is a stretch – I think whoever named it must have consumed a local 'happy drink'. We swam, ate, read, bathed in the sun, napped, frolicked and relaxed. My only concern was the coconuts falling on someone. I reminded myself of the Buddhist philosophy that everything is temporary and that what will be will be. Alas, my reflections did little to ease my worry and I was relieved that by the end of our visit everyone was happy, and above all, safe. Notwithstanding some really red faces and sun-crisped bodies, all was well.
On the boat ride home I enjoyed the ocean air and looked forward to a meal and an early night. After all, relaxing on the beach all day is a taxing work. Back on land, we hired some tuk tuks to tour us around Kep. We saw the remnants of the French colonial mansions that today now sit vacant and grown over leaving their glorious pasts only to imagination. We took a few token tourist pictures beside Cambodia's largest statue of a crab and moved on.
Speaking of crab, I should say that eating crab regularly is a treat that I will miss very much. A full plate of crab costs about $5 US. As much as I have enjoyed the food, I should mention that by now I have heard the following several times: “I would kill for a cheese burger”. Going to the White Spot is on my to do list when I get home. I also regret to inform you that by now the inevitable has happened: the runs. The combination of intense sun, late nights and new micro organisms have left our immune systems compromised. A fair share of us have experienced sore bellies, canker sores and shrinking appetites.... but nothing bad enough to dampen our spirits.
PS: Another predictable inevitability has occurred: romance. Sorry kids, no details for you.
Off to bed.
Today's modus operandi: relaxation. I have nothing exciting to report and I hesitate to go too much in too detail so as not to make those at home in sub-zero weather jealous. Too bad – I can't resist. A small group decided to stay in Sianoukville the previous night in order to go scuba-diving and to shake it up. The rest of us took a 20 minute boat ride on the Gulf of Thailand to get to Rabbit Island. Rabbit Island is small and consists of little more than a sandy beach, clear water and a few food stalls. It was named Rabbit Island because apparently it looks like a rabbit. This is a stretch – I think whoever named it must have consumed a local 'happy drink'. We swam, ate, read, bathed in the sun, napped, frolicked and relaxed. My only concern was the coconuts falling on someone. I reminded myself of the Buddhist philosophy that everything is temporary and that what will be will be. Alas, my reflections did little to ease my worry and I was relieved that by the end of our visit everyone was happy, and above all, safe. Notwithstanding some really red faces and sun-crisped bodies, all was well.
On the boat ride home I enjoyed the ocean air and looked forward to a meal and an early night. After all, relaxing on the beach all day is a taxing work. Back on land, we hired some tuk tuks to tour us around Kep. We saw the remnants of the French colonial mansions that today now sit vacant and grown over leaving their glorious pasts only to imagination. We took a few token tourist pictures beside Cambodia's largest statue of a crab and moved on.
Speaking of crab, I should say that eating crab regularly is a treat that I will miss very much. A full plate of crab costs about $5 US. As much as I have enjoyed the food, I should mention that by now I have heard the following several times: “I would kill for a cheese burger”. Going to the White Spot is on my to do list when I get home. I also regret to inform you that by now the inevitable has happened: the runs. The combination of intense sun, late nights and new micro organisms have left our immune systems compromised. A fair share of us have experienced sore bellies, canker sores and shrinking appetites.... but nothing bad enough to dampen our spirits.
PS: Another predictable inevitability has occurred: romance. Sorry kids, no details for you.
Off to bed.
Exploring Cambodia from a different perspective
December 13th:
It was particularly hot today. My best guess is that during the height of the day it gets to about 28-30 degrees Celsius, but with the humidity it feels like about 35. We sweat all day and have to remind ourselves to drink more water than we would prefer. The air conditioning in our rooms is a welcome relief, if not to cool down but to dry off.
Today we played tourist. We went to explore Sianoukville which is a port city and caters to beach enthusiasts and partiers world wide. We splintered off into smaller groups and enjoyed the sand, surf and massages. Void of the garbage, the throngs of tourists and the beggars, I can imagine that sometime not so long ago the beach itself was a pristine natural wonder. Those days are gone. It was a novelty being here, but I only needed one day to experience it.
There is a visible and palpable seediness here. The sex trade was more in my face that I expected to be. A surprising number of older men are shamelessly accompanied by young women who are obviously paid. It's accepted and common and nobody seems to care. There is a plethora of beggars here, ranging from those without limbs to parents with sick, limp children and children alone. Some of the more entrepreneurial child beggars have learned the art of pulling the emotional heart strings, evident by those sporting t-shirts that read, “I could be your daughter”. I made a personal commitment not to give to the beggers for noble reasons. It may sound cruel, but giving to beggers, in the grander scheme, only perpetuates a vicious cycle of dependence, indignity and poverty. My resolve was tested to the limit when a blind man walked by, led by what I can only guess were his daughters. These girls were dirty and sad looking. The extent to which the sadness was real or an act I do not know. He was singing a heart-wrenching and melancholy version of my favourite song – Unchained Melody. He knew all the words in English. I was impressed, but I resisted. However, I must admit, nearing the end of the day, sun-drunk and emotionally worn down, I buckled. As I looked up into the sun, a young man approached me missing both hands. My best guess is that he was a landmine victim. I have seen many maimed people missing limbs. The worst case I saw was a man literally missing half his face, an eye and a hand. With this man, though blurred by the sun, I could see a level of dignity in this man's eyes that spoke to me: “I have no hands. I need your help, though I wish I didn't, for I am a man. But, here I am without a choice. The choice is yours to assist me because my government will not. There is no obligation here.” I felt blessed. I could be this man. I am not religious or superstitious but if ever there was a chance for good karma, this was it. This was not an enjoyable experience, nor was it painful. Reflecting on it now, I needed him as a reminder.... he gave me more resolve to be part of the process and to remind others that if you aren't part of the process, you are complicit in the problem.
Then you have the vendors hawking sh*t you don't need. Any undisciplined resolve I may have had not to buy went flying out the window. I am now the proud owner of three cheap pairs of sunglasses I don't need. God, I hate myself sometimes. Oh well, it makes for a good story and the process is fun because you have to make it fun. Actually, it's not rocket science. They say $10, you say $3 and then you meet in the middle. The more you buy, the more the discount. You have all the power really as you don't need the item and 100 other people are happy to sell you the same thing. On rare occasions someone will offer you a fair price right from the start and save you the hassle. In this case, I always tip as a gesture of appreciation. Just for fun, here are a few free bargaining tips: 1. Nothing is free. 'Free' means a giving a tip 2. When they won't give you a fair price, walk away. Suddenly, your price is doable. 3. Keep small change. 4. No means yes. Don't make eye contact or talk. It goes against our nature, but it works and it would appear that no offense it taken – business is business, I guess.
On the beach many if not most of the vendors are children. “Child labour” is very taboo in the western world, but one can see 'working children' (i.e.children who work with dignity and respect with a chance to support the family) as beneficial within a certain context. From those who approached me with dignity, I purchased several trinkets. No word of a lie, you can tell that some kids enjoy the challenge and interaction with the tourists. Indeed, some kids' level of English and social skill are quite impressive. The survivors are the intelligent ones who seem to have accepted the situation without accepting their plot; there appears to be an element of proactive choice made with a vision of a brighter future. These kids inspire. However, in Sianoukville, many child vendors don't have dignity. Rather, they approach aggressively and get angry when you don't readily fulfill your expected role as tourist and consumer. Many children don't easily disguise their resentment of working. These kids make me feel sad and indignant. A carefree childhood should never be taken for granted.
Many of us indulged in massages as well. At these prices, I have become somewhat of a massage enthusiast. For a couple of bucks one can even get their toe nails clipped and dead skin removed. I opted out of the nail clipping. In Cambodia, if you will pay for it, someone will do it for you. Half way in to my massage, I felt a sharp pain. I got more than I bargained for as, apparently, pimple popping and hair removal is included... for a cost. I will spare you more details.
From what I have gathered, in Sianoukville, it is the wealthy that are benefiting the most as those with the means and connections buy up stretches of beach where tourists flock. Apparently the Chinese, Russians and Koreans are 'investing' heavily. We know Cambodia to be one of the most corrupt countries in the world. Those with money and connections in government have basically stolen the best land. Capital investment and 'development' is often made on the backs of those who are intimidated and bullied and disposed of the land they need to subsist. This is infuriating! While lying on the beach enjoying the sun and cheap service, I was scared to open my eyes any more for fear of knowing to what extent I may be complicit to this injustice.
Kep, in contrast, has the right amenities less the negative influence of tourism. I fear Kep's originality and authenticity will be compromised if more people, interested only in the beach and food, discover this gem. On one hand, I can appreciate the economic benefit to the locals if tourism expands in Kep. Every Cambodian I have asked, the owners and workers alike, report welcoming tourists with open arms. Tourism = money. I suppose when one needs to feed their family, preserving the environment and culture are of secondary importance. No judgement. Leadership must come from the top as much, if not more, than from the bottom. I can't but be concerned: Who will benefit? At what cost? Will the development be sustainable? I hope the ugly face of tourism doesn't destroy this jewel.
That night many of us ended up at a really cool restaurant called the Snake Pit where there were snakes inside the glass tables. There were alligators, snakes, reptiles and fish in a large glass tank in the middle of the restaurant – not something you see everyday. Given that there were Russian ladies hanging around and the fact that the menu was also in Russian, our best guess was that this place was run by the Russians. The mob perhaps?. We left before the all-night dancing girls started dancing. Dodgy. That's Sianoukville for you.
I had lots of fun and collected a few more novel stories to tell around a campfire. But, I was also glad to go 'home' to Kep and I am sure I wasn't alone. The bus ride home was good times... more singing and laughter. As if this day couldn't be more novel, we stopped along the way to pick up some beverages for the ride home and enjoyed some impromptu Karaoke with the locals. What was a 2.5 hours bus ride in the day became a 4.5 hour ride home – Boonang was extra cautious. There was a full moon and many Cambodians drive with their headlights off because they think they are saving energy. A little public education here could go a long way.
Today's experience stands in stark contrast to the Developing World Connections experience in general and convinced me even more of the value of what we do. Traditional tourism, for better or for worse, is business. Relationships are based on money and power and authentic human interactions are more limited. On the beach, each party's base vested interest is getting more for less. One feels like an object. People become more aggressive. The volunteer work experience, in contrast, is infinitely more meaningful. People's vested interests are other people. You get to be part of something bigger than yourself: the people's process. There is equality, dignity and respect. The Cambodia I have grown to know and love is in Chamkar Bei and Kep, not Sianoukville.
It was particularly hot today. My best guess is that during the height of the day it gets to about 28-30 degrees Celsius, but with the humidity it feels like about 35. We sweat all day and have to remind ourselves to drink more water than we would prefer. The air conditioning in our rooms is a welcome relief, if not to cool down but to dry off.
Today we played tourist. We went to explore Sianoukville which is a port city and caters to beach enthusiasts and partiers world wide. We splintered off into smaller groups and enjoyed the sand, surf and massages. Void of the garbage, the throngs of tourists and the beggars, I can imagine that sometime not so long ago the beach itself was a pristine natural wonder. Those days are gone. It was a novelty being here, but I only needed one day to experience it.
There is a visible and palpable seediness here. The sex trade was more in my face that I expected to be. A surprising number of older men are shamelessly accompanied by young women who are obviously paid. It's accepted and common and nobody seems to care. There is a plethora of beggars here, ranging from those without limbs to parents with sick, limp children and children alone. Some of the more entrepreneurial child beggars have learned the art of pulling the emotional heart strings, evident by those sporting t-shirts that read, “I could be your daughter”. I made a personal commitment not to give to the beggers for noble reasons. It may sound cruel, but giving to beggers, in the grander scheme, only perpetuates a vicious cycle of dependence, indignity and poverty. My resolve was tested to the limit when a blind man walked by, led by what I can only guess were his daughters. These girls were dirty and sad looking. The extent to which the sadness was real or an act I do not know. He was singing a heart-wrenching and melancholy version of my favourite song – Unchained Melody. He knew all the words in English. I was impressed, but I resisted. However, I must admit, nearing the end of the day, sun-drunk and emotionally worn down, I buckled. As I looked up into the sun, a young man approached me missing both hands. My best guess is that he was a landmine victim. I have seen many maimed people missing limbs. The worst case I saw was a man literally missing half his face, an eye and a hand. With this man, though blurred by the sun, I could see a level of dignity in this man's eyes that spoke to me: “I have no hands. I need your help, though I wish I didn't, for I am a man. But, here I am without a choice. The choice is yours to assist me because my government will not. There is no obligation here.” I felt blessed. I could be this man. I am not religious or superstitious but if ever there was a chance for good karma, this was it. This was not an enjoyable experience, nor was it painful. Reflecting on it now, I needed him as a reminder.... he gave me more resolve to be part of the process and to remind others that if you aren't part of the process, you are complicit in the problem.
Then you have the vendors hawking sh*t you don't need. Any undisciplined resolve I may have had not to buy went flying out the window. I am now the proud owner of three cheap pairs of sunglasses I don't need. God, I hate myself sometimes. Oh well, it makes for a good story and the process is fun because you have to make it fun. Actually, it's not rocket science. They say $10, you say $3 and then you meet in the middle. The more you buy, the more the discount. You have all the power really as you don't need the item and 100 other people are happy to sell you the same thing. On rare occasions someone will offer you a fair price right from the start and save you the hassle. In this case, I always tip as a gesture of appreciation. Just for fun, here are a few free bargaining tips: 1. Nothing is free. 'Free' means a giving a tip 2. When they won't give you a fair price, walk away. Suddenly, your price is doable. 3. Keep small change. 4. No means yes. Don't make eye contact or talk. It goes against our nature, but it works and it would appear that no offense it taken – business is business, I guess.
On the beach many if not most of the vendors are children. “Child labour” is very taboo in the western world, but one can see 'working children' (i.e.children who work with dignity and respect with a chance to support the family) as beneficial within a certain context. From those who approached me with dignity, I purchased several trinkets. No word of a lie, you can tell that some kids enjoy the challenge and interaction with the tourists. Indeed, some kids' level of English and social skill are quite impressive. The survivors are the intelligent ones who seem to have accepted the situation without accepting their plot; there appears to be an element of proactive choice made with a vision of a brighter future. These kids inspire. However, in Sianoukville, many child vendors don't have dignity. Rather, they approach aggressively and get angry when you don't readily fulfill your expected role as tourist and consumer. Many children don't easily disguise their resentment of working. These kids make me feel sad and indignant. A carefree childhood should never be taken for granted.
Many of us indulged in massages as well. At these prices, I have become somewhat of a massage enthusiast. For a couple of bucks one can even get their toe nails clipped and dead skin removed. I opted out of the nail clipping. In Cambodia, if you will pay for it, someone will do it for you. Half way in to my massage, I felt a sharp pain. I got more than I bargained for as, apparently, pimple popping and hair removal is included... for a cost. I will spare you more details.
From what I have gathered, in Sianoukville, it is the wealthy that are benefiting the most as those with the means and connections buy up stretches of beach where tourists flock. Apparently the Chinese, Russians and Koreans are 'investing' heavily. We know Cambodia to be one of the most corrupt countries in the world. Those with money and connections in government have basically stolen the best land. Capital investment and 'development' is often made on the backs of those who are intimidated and bullied and disposed of the land they need to subsist. This is infuriating! While lying on the beach enjoying the sun and cheap service, I was scared to open my eyes any more for fear of knowing to what extent I may be complicit to this injustice.
Kep, in contrast, has the right amenities less the negative influence of tourism. I fear Kep's originality and authenticity will be compromised if more people, interested only in the beach and food, discover this gem. On one hand, I can appreciate the economic benefit to the locals if tourism expands in Kep. Every Cambodian I have asked, the owners and workers alike, report welcoming tourists with open arms. Tourism = money. I suppose when one needs to feed their family, preserving the environment and culture are of secondary importance. No judgement. Leadership must come from the top as much, if not more, than from the bottom. I can't but be concerned: Who will benefit? At what cost? Will the development be sustainable? I hope the ugly face of tourism doesn't destroy this jewel.
That night many of us ended up at a really cool restaurant called the Snake Pit where there were snakes inside the glass tables. There were alligators, snakes, reptiles and fish in a large glass tank in the middle of the restaurant – not something you see everyday. Given that there were Russian ladies hanging around and the fact that the menu was also in Russian, our best guess was that this place was run by the Russians. The mob perhaps?. We left before the all-night dancing girls started dancing. Dodgy. That's Sianoukville for you.
I had lots of fun and collected a few more novel stories to tell around a campfire. But, I was also glad to go 'home' to Kep and I am sure I wasn't alone. The bus ride home was good times... more singing and laughter. As if this day couldn't be more novel, we stopped along the way to pick up some beverages for the ride home and enjoyed some impromptu Karaoke with the locals. What was a 2.5 hours bus ride in the day became a 4.5 hour ride home – Boonang was extra cautious. There was a full moon and many Cambodians drive with their headlights off because they think they are saving energy. A little public education here could go a long way.
Today's experience stands in stark contrast to the Developing World Connections experience in general and convinced me even more of the value of what we do. Traditional tourism, for better or for worse, is business. Relationships are based on money and power and authentic human interactions are more limited. On the beach, each party's base vested interest is getting more for less. One feels like an object. People become more aggressive. The volunteer work experience, in contrast, is infinitely more meaningful. People's vested interests are other people. You get to be part of something bigger than yourself: the people's process. There is equality, dignity and respect. The Cambodia I have grown to know and love is in Chamkar Bei and Kep, not Sianoukville.
Raising a house and fulfilling a dream
December 12th:
This was the last day of work this week. The other group continued scrapping and painting the community buildings and it was a tough go. Sometimes work is work. Group number two finished off the dream home and it was another day full of song, dance and thatching. After only one day on site, both the participants and the locals became more comfortable with the process and the non-verbal communication became more fluid and relaxed. We developed international comradey and truly did build bridges across borders. It was heartwarming to the participants for them to see that the family was very pleased to have us there. By the end of the day emotions were running high and tears of joy were shed. As the goodbye's were made, Mr. Theary translated for the man of the house: “Thank you so much for your help. This is a dream come true”. It takes so little to make such a difference. Today, Developing World Connections volunteers raised a house and fulfilled a dream.
I have asked people if they would like to share their thoughts so far with you. Here they are:
Shalen Curle:
“It's several days in and I've lost track of the days. Is it Monday? Wednesday? I honestly have no idea and you don't even know how incredible this feels. I don't know what time of day it is... I only know that I wake up when the rooster calls. The first day this happened I actually thought that the rooster was lying. I heard him “cock a doodle doooooo” and I looked out the window and only saw complete darkness. I thought to myself “there is no way it's morning”... But sure enough, ten minutes later the sky started to lighten and the sun started to rise in the sky. As I write this I am looking out upon half of our group who are painting one of the buildings in the Community Training Facility and a girl named Lune is sitting with me watching so curiously as I write on Jess' mini note book computer. The Khmer girls are weaving fabrics in the room behind me. I will never take a piece of clothing for granted again. Once you see the workmanship that goes into each thread, each artistic design, each movement... all to create something that will sustain and simply feed one's family. This is something that every human being should see...We are so fortunate that we get to work and have the opportunity to see a world that is so different than ours...Imagine, a family of four on a motorbike and a gas station which is 10-1 Litre Pepsi bottles on a small table filled with gas on the side of the road. The work we are doing is meaningful, however the changes that I have already experienced in myself are more meaningful. What amazes me is that although there is poverty there is an unmarked joy and kindness from the Khmer people. Don't believe the cynics... Change is possible... Although maybe it's a change in you and I...This is only the beginning.”
April Hoffman:
“I've lost track of time. I don't know what day it is or what time it is, and I sometimes find myself forgetting what month it is. In preparing myself for this trip I decided that I didn't want to create any great expectations in fear of being disappointed. And while I definitely think this has helped open my mind to the culture, I also now realize I had nothing to fear. Phnom Penh is daunting. I've never witnessed such blatant poverty. I remember watching a show on TV about how people will wait for garbage trucks to pick up the trash on the side of the street (trash has to be bagged or else the garbage trucks wont pick it up), once in the back of the truck packs of young men jump inside the truck and go through trash bags looking for anything they might be able to use or sell. I remember watching it and thinking to myself that this is why I'm going – to try, in some round-about-way, to help. There was some definite culture shock upon arrival, and when I witnessed first hand the packs of young men jumping into the back of a garbage truck while I looked down from the hostel balcony, I nearly cried. The garbage, the poverty, the day-to-day struggle to meet basic needs nearly blinded me – but it didn't, and Cambodia is beautiful!! There are a million descriptions I want to write down – the children with their shy smiles, waving at us from the side of the road as we drive by on our tour bus. The children with the big welcoming smiles, excited at the foreigners passing by. The simple beauty of the countryside, scattered with lush trees and rice fields. The people working in the rice fields, harvesting the food that will feed them over the next year. The lack of cars, but abundance of motorbikes and bicycles. Life is simple here and I find it so refreshing. My fear now is Western influences moving in and destroying it.“
Amanda Arbour:
“On my other adventures to Asia, I was never fortunate to visit Cambodia, From what I've heard and from what I've now experienced, Cambodia has more to offer than Phnom Penh and Anchor Watt- the people in the rural villages are full of life, kindness, generosity and smiles. My time spent with the village children, talking with the local villagers and seeing first hand how they live their day to day lives has been an experience beyond words- you'll just have to come and see for yourself.”
Christopher Seguin: “From desk to the jungle plains of Cambodia. After a year and a half without a trip or vacation the chance to bang weak nails in iron -like wood came as a welcome reprieve. We were given the task of creating a small home from scratch in two days. From six large poles thrust into the earth we built a frame, walls, a floor and roof. From thatch and wood arose a home. The family who was to live in the home helped us hammering, lifting, tying. They were tiny people who could lift more than their body weight. Their huge smiles and extremely limited English made each moment a chance to grin and giggle. This home was a new beginning, a fresh start, and as those walls rose and the thatch began to become a roof, I felt that I had done something, built something, changed something. No matter our job or position ,it is very special to build something with your hands, and it is extremely special to give that something away, to change the lives of others with sweat and tears. My thumbs will never be the same.”
Ben Nielsen:
“No expectations backed by naiveté and a good spirit is how I entered Cambodia. Despite my planning and preparation, the reality of this third world country is too distinct to imagine. It is a happy place full of life, soil and soul. The smiles of the Cambodian people are so warm and friendly and their eyes so interpretive. I found myself caught in the moment as I hammered my first nail. A moment of satisfaction. But it was the children that make you feel a sense of “good”, for lack of a better word. Whether playing soccer, dancing, or drawing pictures with the kids; it is evident how appreciative the family is of our presence. I have traveled around Australia and Europe, but never with a volunteer group like this. It is truly the best way to experience the real culture while meeting like minded people and feeling good about giving back. Besides, it's nice to work off the late nights of ocean dips, sing-a-longs, and brilliant dinners! All in all, for anyone interested in the full traveling package, sign up for a trip like this!”
This was the last day of work this week. The other group continued scrapping and painting the community buildings and it was a tough go. Sometimes work is work. Group number two finished off the dream home and it was another day full of song, dance and thatching. After only one day on site, both the participants and the locals became more comfortable with the process and the non-verbal communication became more fluid and relaxed. We developed international comradey and truly did build bridges across borders. It was heartwarming to the participants for them to see that the family was very pleased to have us there. By the end of the day emotions were running high and tears of joy were shed. As the goodbye's were made, Mr. Theary translated for the man of the house: “Thank you so much for your help. This is a dream come true”. It takes so little to make such a difference. Today, Developing World Connections volunteers raised a house and fulfilled a dream.
I have asked people if they would like to share their thoughts so far with you. Here they are:
Shalen Curle:
“It's several days in and I've lost track of the days. Is it Monday? Wednesday? I honestly have no idea and you don't even know how incredible this feels. I don't know what time of day it is... I only know that I wake up when the rooster calls. The first day this happened I actually thought that the rooster was lying. I heard him “cock a doodle doooooo” and I looked out the window and only saw complete darkness. I thought to myself “there is no way it's morning”... But sure enough, ten minutes later the sky started to lighten and the sun started to rise in the sky. As I write this I am looking out upon half of our group who are painting one of the buildings in the Community Training Facility and a girl named Lune is sitting with me watching so curiously as I write on Jess' mini note book computer. The Khmer girls are weaving fabrics in the room behind me. I will never take a piece of clothing for granted again. Once you see the workmanship that goes into each thread, each artistic design, each movement... all to create something that will sustain and simply feed one's family. This is something that every human being should see...We are so fortunate that we get to work and have the opportunity to see a world that is so different than ours...Imagine, a family of four on a motorbike and a gas station which is 10-1 Litre Pepsi bottles on a small table filled with gas on the side of the road. The work we are doing is meaningful, however the changes that I have already experienced in myself are more meaningful. What amazes me is that although there is poverty there is an unmarked joy and kindness from the Khmer people. Don't believe the cynics... Change is possible... Although maybe it's a change in you and I...This is only the beginning.”
April Hoffman:
“I've lost track of time. I don't know what day it is or what time it is, and I sometimes find myself forgetting what month it is. In preparing myself for this trip I decided that I didn't want to create any great expectations in fear of being disappointed. And while I definitely think this has helped open my mind to the culture, I also now realize I had nothing to fear. Phnom Penh is daunting. I've never witnessed such blatant poverty. I remember watching a show on TV about how people will wait for garbage trucks to pick up the trash on the side of the street (trash has to be bagged or else the garbage trucks wont pick it up), once in the back of the truck packs of young men jump inside the truck and go through trash bags looking for anything they might be able to use or sell. I remember watching it and thinking to myself that this is why I'm going – to try, in some round-about-way, to help. There was some definite culture shock upon arrival, and when I witnessed first hand the packs of young men jumping into the back of a garbage truck while I looked down from the hostel balcony, I nearly cried. The garbage, the poverty, the day-to-day struggle to meet basic needs nearly blinded me – but it didn't, and Cambodia is beautiful!! There are a million descriptions I want to write down – the children with their shy smiles, waving at us from the side of the road as we drive by on our tour bus. The children with the big welcoming smiles, excited at the foreigners passing by. The simple beauty of the countryside, scattered with lush trees and rice fields. The people working in the rice fields, harvesting the food that will feed them over the next year. The lack of cars, but abundance of motorbikes and bicycles. Life is simple here and I find it so refreshing. My fear now is Western influences moving in and destroying it.“
Amanda Arbour:
“On my other adventures to Asia, I was never fortunate to visit Cambodia, From what I've heard and from what I've now experienced, Cambodia has more to offer than Phnom Penh and Anchor Watt- the people in the rural villages are full of life, kindness, generosity and smiles. My time spent with the village children, talking with the local villagers and seeing first hand how they live their day to day lives has been an experience beyond words- you'll just have to come and see for yourself.”
Christopher Seguin: “From desk to the jungle plains of Cambodia. After a year and a half without a trip or vacation the chance to bang weak nails in iron -like wood came as a welcome reprieve. We were given the task of creating a small home from scratch in two days. From six large poles thrust into the earth we built a frame, walls, a floor and roof. From thatch and wood arose a home. The family who was to live in the home helped us hammering, lifting, tying. They were tiny people who could lift more than their body weight. Their huge smiles and extremely limited English made each moment a chance to grin and giggle. This home was a new beginning, a fresh start, and as those walls rose and the thatch began to become a roof, I felt that I had done something, built something, changed something. No matter our job or position ,it is very special to build something with your hands, and it is extremely special to give that something away, to change the lives of others with sweat and tears. My thumbs will never be the same.”
Ben Nielsen:
“No expectations backed by naiveté and a good spirit is how I entered Cambodia. Despite my planning and preparation, the reality of this third world country is too distinct to imagine. It is a happy place full of life, soil and soul. The smiles of the Cambodian people are so warm and friendly and their eyes so interpretive. I found myself caught in the moment as I hammered my first nail. A moment of satisfaction. But it was the children that make you feel a sense of “good”, for lack of a better word. Whether playing soccer, dancing, or drawing pictures with the kids; it is evident how appreciative the family is of our presence. I have traveled around Australia and Europe, but never with a volunteer group like this. It is truly the best way to experience the real culture while meeting like minded people and feeling good about giving back. Besides, it's nice to work off the late nights of ocean dips, sing-a-longs, and brilliant dinners! All in all, for anyone interested in the full traveling package, sign up for a trip like this!”
Participant Thoughts
This was the last day of work this week. The other group continued scrapping and painting the community buildings and it was a tough go. Sometimes work is work. Group number two finished off the dream home and it was another day full of song, dance and thatching. After only one day on site, both the participants and the locals became more comfortable with the process and the non-verbal communication became more fluid and relaxed. We developed international comradey and truly did build bridges across borders. It was heartwarming to the participants for them to see that the family was very pleased to have us there. By the end of the day emotions were running high and tears of joy were shed. As the goodbye's were made, Mr. Theary translated for the man of the house: “Thank you so much for your help. This is a dream come true”. It takes so little to make such a difference. Today, Developing World Connections volunteers raised a house and fulfilled a dream.
I have asked people if they would like to share their thoughts so far with you. Here they are:
Shalen Curle:
“It's several days in and I've lost track of the days. Is it Monday? Wednesday? I honestly have no idea and you don't even know how incredible this feels. I don't know what time of day it is... I only know that I wake up when the rooster calls. The first day this happened I actually thought that the rooster was lying. I heard him “cock a doodle doooooo” and I looked out the window and only saw complete darkness. I thought to myself “there is no way it's morning”... But sure enough, ten minutes later the sky started to lighten and the sun started to rise in the sky. As I write this I am looking out upon half of our group who are painting one of the buildings in the Community Training Facility and a girl named Lune is sitting with me watching so curiously as I write on Jess' mini note book computer. The Khmer girls are weaving fabrics in the room behind me. I will never take a piece of clothing for granted again. Once you see the workmanship that goes into each thread, each artistic design, each movement... all to create something that will sustain and simply feed one's family. This is something that every human being should see...We are so fortunate that we get to work and have the opportunity to see a world that is so different than ours...Imagine, a family of four on a motorbike and a gas station which is 10-1 Litre Pepsi bottles on a small table filled with gas on the side of the road. The work we are doing is meaningful, however the changes that I have already experienced in myself are more meaningful. What amazes me is that although there is poverty there is an unmarked joy and kindness from the Khmer people. Don't believe the cynics... Change is possible... Although maybe it's a change in you and I...This is only the beginning.”
April Hoffman:
“I've lost track of time. I don't know what day it is or what time it is, and I sometimes find myself forgetting what month it is. In preparing myself for this trip I decided that I didn't want to create any great expectations in fear of being disappointed. And while I definitely think this has helped open my mind to the culture, I also now realize I had nothing to fear. Phnom Penh is daunting. I've never witnessed such blatant poverty. I remember watching a show on TV about how people will wait for garbage trucks to pick up the trash on the side of the street (trash has to be bagged or else the garbage trucks wont pick it up), once in the back of the truck packs of young men jump inside the truck and go through trash bags looking for anything they might be able to use or sell. I remember watching it and thinking to myself that this is why I'm going – to try, in some round-about-way, to help. There was some definite culture shock upon arrival, and when I witnessed first hand the packs of young men jumping into the back of a garbage truck while I looked down from the hostel balcony, I nearly cried. The garbage, the poverty, the day-to-day struggle to meet basic needs nearly blinded me – but it didn't, and Cambodia is beautiful!! There are a million descriptions I want to write down – the children with their shy smiles, waving at us from the side of the road as we drive by on our tour bus. The children with the big welcoming smiles, excited at the foreigners passing by. The simple beauty of the countryside, scattered with lush trees and rice fields. The people working in the rice fields, harvesting the food that will feed them over the next year. The lack of cars, but abundance of motorbikes and bicycles. Life is simple here and I find it so refreshing. My fear now is Western influences moving in and destroying it.“
Amanda Arbour:
“On my other adventures to Asia, I was never fortunate to visit Cambodia, From what I've heard and from what I've now experienced, Cambodia has more to offer than Phnom Penh and Anchor Watt- the people in the rural villages are full of life, kindness, generosity and smiles. My time spent with the village children, talking with the local villagers and seeing first hand how they live their day to day lives has been an experience beyond words- you'll just have to come and see for yourself.”
Christopher Seguin: “From desk to the jungle plains of Cambodia. After a year and a half without a trip or vacation the chance to bang weak nails in iron -like wood came as a welcome reprieve. We were given the task of creating a small home from scratch in two days. From six large poles thrust into the earth we built a frame, walls, a floor and roof. From thatch and wood arose a home. The family who was to live in the home helped us hammering, lifting, tying. They were tiny people who could lift more than their body weight. Their huge smiles and extremely limited English made each moment a chance to grin and giggle. This home was a new beginning, a fresh start, and as those walls rose and the thatch began to become a roof, I felt that I had done something, built something, changed something. No matter our job or position ,it is very special to build something with your hands, and it is extremely special to give that something away, to change the lives of others with sweat and tears. My thumbs will never be the same.”
Ben Nielsen:
“No expectations backed by naiveté and a good spirit is how I entered Cambodia. Despite my planning and preparation, the reality of this third world country is too distinct to imagine. It is a happy place full of life, soil and soul. The smiles of the Cambodian people are so warm and friendly and their eyes so interpretive. I found myself caught in the moment as I hammered my first nail. A moment of satisfaction. But it was the children that make you feel a sense of “good”, for lack of a better word. Whether playing soccer, dancing, or drawing pictures with the kids; it is evident how appreciative the family is of our presence. I have traveled around Australia and Europe, but never with a volunteer group like this. It is truly the best way to experience the real culture while meeting like minded people and feeling good about giving back. Besides, it's nice to work off the late nights of ocean dips, sing-a-longs, and brilliant dinners! All in all, for anyone interested in the full traveling package, sign up for a trip like this!”
Monday, December 15, 2008
Thatching a Dream Home's roof: A lesson in strong and nimble fingers.
December 11th :
Today it was my work group's turn to work on a 'dream home'. It was fantastic! I can now add roof thatching to my resume. In this case, rather than starting from scratch, we took the frame of an existing structure and added to it. The frame was leaning over about 20 degrees. We collectively pushed with all of our might and propped up the house with some logs. We got a quick lesson on how to properly attach the thatch to the roof and it looked really easy to do...until we tried it for ourselves. After several failed attempts we decided it wasn't for a lack of technique but rather a lack of what Tommy refers to as “insane Cambodian finger strength”. I guess using a keyboard all day doesn't develop the same finger muscles. In any case, we did the best we could and by the end of the day we had almost completed the roof. We lamented not being able to run to the nearest Home Hardware to pick up the necessary tools to make things easier. Some zap straps could have gone a long way. This was a good exercise for us... an opportunity to remind ourselves that we are here to learn other ways of doing things. We resisted the temptation to take charge, although harder for some than others. Mr. Theary from BAB was patient and helpful. I can only guess that the people were at times too polite to tell us when we were doing things wrong.
Back home, the secret to success is in developing a specialized skill. In so doing, we are far removed from all the things that we consume. Here, survival depends on one's ability to maximize the utility of the land. Resources don't go to waste. Self-sufficiency is key. Virtually all the materials used for the house come from the land: bamboo, logs (sticks may be a more accurate description), rice stalks and cow dung. It's like a real-life episode of survivor. I don't think my wicked excel spreadsheet skills would be of much use here. I admire the people's ability to sustain themselves because if I had to do the same back home, I would likely go hungry. In my 20 years of formal schooling, I don't recall sustainable agriculture ever being on the curriculum. I hope to make the time to grow a garden this summer.
As some of us clung to the roof frame and attached thatch, the others played with the kids... and there is no lack of kids and this is no surprise given that the average Cambodian age is 21 and that the average life expectancy is less than 60 years of age. We played games, threw a ball around, did gymnastics and sang songs. When we showed up they must have wondered what in God's name we were doing there. At first, the kids were very skeptical and shy...almost scared of us, but mesmerized. Shalen is a clown and made animals and flowers with some balloons and the kids loved them! A child's ability to be present, spontaneous and honest never fails to impress me. Tommy was a hit with his gymnastic tricks. Teresa, Courtney and April's games were very well received. The macarena and chicken dance have officially been introduced and well received in rural Cambodia – we all do our little part. It didn't take long before we had the kids wrapped around our fingers. A little love and attention goes a long way. By the end of the day we had a gang of about 15 children chasing and screaming as our bus departed. This is the juice. These moments make it all worthwhile.
Today it was my work group's turn to work on a 'dream home'. It was fantastic! I can now add roof thatching to my resume. In this case, rather than starting from scratch, we took the frame of an existing structure and added to it. The frame was leaning over about 20 degrees. We collectively pushed with all of our might and propped up the house with some logs. We got a quick lesson on how to properly attach the thatch to the roof and it looked really easy to do...until we tried it for ourselves. After several failed attempts we decided it wasn't for a lack of technique but rather a lack of what Tommy refers to as “insane Cambodian finger strength”. I guess using a keyboard all day doesn't develop the same finger muscles. In any case, we did the best we could and by the end of the day we had almost completed the roof. We lamented not being able to run to the nearest Home Hardware to pick up the necessary tools to make things easier. Some zap straps could have gone a long way. This was a good exercise for us... an opportunity to remind ourselves that we are here to learn other ways of doing things. We resisted the temptation to take charge, although harder for some than others. Mr. Theary from BAB was patient and helpful. I can only guess that the people were at times too polite to tell us when we were doing things wrong.
Back home, the secret to success is in developing a specialized skill. In so doing, we are far removed from all the things that we consume. Here, survival depends on one's ability to maximize the utility of the land. Resources don't go to waste. Self-sufficiency is key. Virtually all the materials used for the house come from the land: bamboo, logs (sticks may be a more accurate description), rice stalks and cow dung. It's like a real-life episode of survivor. I don't think my wicked excel spreadsheet skills would be of much use here. I admire the people's ability to sustain themselves because if I had to do the same back home, I would likely go hungry. In my 20 years of formal schooling, I don't recall sustainable agriculture ever being on the curriculum. I hope to make the time to grow a garden this summer.
As some of us clung to the roof frame and attached thatch, the others played with the kids... and there is no lack of kids and this is no surprise given that the average Cambodian age is 21 and that the average life expectancy is less than 60 years of age. We played games, threw a ball around, did gymnastics and sang songs. When we showed up they must have wondered what in God's name we were doing there. At first, the kids were very skeptical and shy...almost scared of us, but mesmerized. Shalen is a clown and made animals and flowers with some balloons and the kids loved them! A child's ability to be present, spontaneous and honest never fails to impress me. Tommy was a hit with his gymnastic tricks. Teresa, Courtney and April's games were very well received. The macarena and chicken dance have officially been introduced and well received in rural Cambodia – we all do our little part. It didn't take long before we had the kids wrapped around our fingers. A little love and attention goes a long way. By the end of the day we had a gang of about 15 children chasing and screaming as our bus departed. This is the juice. These moments make it all worthwhile.
Developing Connections: Life-long friendships made.
December 10th:
Day two at work. Progress was made. Work was done. Bonds re-inforced. Connections established. We went to the crab shacks for dinner. By the time this trip is over I will have eaten more crab in a two week stint than I have in the last few years. The only problem with crab? I burn more calories getting to the meat than I get from consuming it. I lie – there is another problem with crab: it always tastes like more. Vy, Saran and Christina came to dinner with us. Christina is an American ex-pat with a curious English accent who is working with BAB. She gave up her stressful, corporate and material existence (her words) to work indefinitely with BAB in Cambodia. She is radiant. Members of the other group shared their experiences building a house from the ground up in two days. Thanks to them, one impoverished Cambodian family is the proud owner of a sturdy new 'dream home.' By the way, this home is a shack by western standards. It is a square building maybe 12 feet by 12 feet with a thatch roof and walls. No matter, the family was very pleased and proud, as was the group. Their stories of laughter, playing with the kids and of a unique building experience left my group looking very forward to starting our dream home.
Repeat good times from the night before. I am amazed by this group's energy. I don't know if they always have this much energy or if they are going to need a vacation from their working vacation when they get home. I seem to have more energy myself. Maybe its the sun. Maybe its the people. Maybe its the positive energy. Whatever, I like it. Some of us went to bed. Guitars were played. Laughter was had. I enjoyed the company of the ten or so of us that went for a midnight swim in the ocean. Note to self: swim under moonlight again.
I am enjoying this group. The group is such a crucial part of the experience. No doubt, it comes with its challenges as well; people have personalities that don't always mix well and some are better able than others to adapt and focus on the positive. Given our size, to this group's credit, we have all done well and I can confidently say that overall we enjoy each other's company. Some people came as individuals while others have come with their friends. It is interesting to observe the evolving dynamics of the group as people feel increasingly comfortable with each other. It is amazing how well you can get to know people in such a short time when you share the same hotel, eat your meals together, work together and share unique experiences together. This is a group bonding experience and not for those who wish to do it alone.... or who have no intention of learning how to do groups. I enjoy watching people become friends and their is no doubt long-terms relationships will come out of this. On this Developing World Connections experience, I can see clearly that the connections made are as much about those we make with each other as a group as those we make with the community and the locals. This group is relatively homogeneous in age and experience and best described as a group of 'young professionals.' I listen closely to people's conversations about relationships, careers, life paths and ambitions. Processing our experience and learning during the day by relating them with our peers is priceless. We will all go back to our regular lives and some of our relationships may not be sustained. But, no matter. I already now that ten years from now I may stumble across the path of someone from this group who I lost touch with and we will have that instant connection. We will reminisce about the day we built that house together, that time we blew balloons and sang and played with the kids .... about how at once, working together, we felt safe, connected and undaunted by this crazy, big and troubled world.
Day two at work. Progress was made. Work was done. Bonds re-inforced. Connections established. We went to the crab shacks for dinner. By the time this trip is over I will have eaten more crab in a two week stint than I have in the last few years. The only problem with crab? I burn more calories getting to the meat than I get from consuming it. I lie – there is another problem with crab: it always tastes like more. Vy, Saran and Christina came to dinner with us. Christina is an American ex-pat with a curious English accent who is working with BAB. She gave up her stressful, corporate and material existence (her words) to work indefinitely with BAB in Cambodia. She is radiant. Members of the other group shared their experiences building a house from the ground up in two days. Thanks to them, one impoverished Cambodian family is the proud owner of a sturdy new 'dream home.' By the way, this home is a shack by western standards. It is a square building maybe 12 feet by 12 feet with a thatch roof and walls. No matter, the family was very pleased and proud, as was the group. Their stories of laughter, playing with the kids and of a unique building experience left my group looking very forward to starting our dream home.
Repeat good times from the night before. I am amazed by this group's energy. I don't know if they always have this much energy or if they are going to need a vacation from their working vacation when they get home. I seem to have more energy myself. Maybe its the sun. Maybe its the people. Maybe its the positive energy. Whatever, I like it. Some of us went to bed. Guitars were played. Laughter was had. I enjoyed the company of the ten or so of us that went for a midnight swim in the ocean. Note to self: swim under moonlight again.
I am enjoying this group. The group is such a crucial part of the experience. No doubt, it comes with its challenges as well; people have personalities that don't always mix well and some are better able than others to adapt and focus on the positive. Given our size, to this group's credit, we have all done well and I can confidently say that overall we enjoy each other's company. Some people came as individuals while others have come with their friends. It is interesting to observe the evolving dynamics of the group as people feel increasingly comfortable with each other. It is amazing how well you can get to know people in such a short time when you share the same hotel, eat your meals together, work together and share unique experiences together. This is a group bonding experience and not for those who wish to do it alone.... or who have no intention of learning how to do groups. I enjoy watching people become friends and their is no doubt long-terms relationships will come out of this. On this Developing World Connections experience, I can see clearly that the connections made are as much about those we make with each other as a group as those we make with the community and the locals. This group is relatively homogeneous in age and experience and best described as a group of 'young professionals.' I listen closely to people's conversations about relationships, careers, life paths and ambitions. Processing our experience and learning during the day by relating them with our peers is priceless. We will all go back to our regular lives and some of our relationships may not be sustained. But, no matter. I already now that ten years from now I may stumble across the path of someone from this group who I lost touch with and we will have that instant connection. We will reminisce about the day we built that house together, that time we blew balloons and sang and played with the kids .... about how at once, working together, we felt safe, connected and undaunted by this crazy, big and troubled world.
First Project Day: Group bonding, laughs and hard work.
December 9th:
Up early, we had pancakes, omelets, juice and fruit for breakfast. More importantly, we had coffee which, to my surprise, was excellent. By 7:30am Cambodian time (i.e. 8am), we were off to work. Our group split into two. One group started building a 'dream home' from scratch while the other was charged with prepping and painting a community building. As part of the second group, I must admit I wasn't too stoked by the prospect of painting all day. I wondered if this wasn't just 'makework'. I reminded myself that this was something a large group could do efficiently and, in so doing, afford the the community time and energy for other things... that there was a purpose to all of this. Our group made the experience and we kept ourselves entertained with jokes, trivia, games and singing. All of us - particularly those of us with office jobs – really enjoyed using our hands and seeing the tangible benefits of our actions. I would love to know what the Cambodian staff working with us was thinking as our boisterous group laughed and laughed, although I can image they think we are a little “loplop” (crazy). Good times.
Both groups met up for a delicious lunch prepared by a women named Saran. Saran takes great pride in her food which is as colourful and delicious as her personality. Saran is a beautiful person inside and out with a genuine and lively spirit. Her smile and laughter are contagious. I am sure I am not the only man in this group who has a secret crush on her. I find the Cambodian people very warm and friendly, if not a little shy. Their character is very endearing. People smile a lot even if, from a Western perspective, many may have less reason to. I would like to make a public vow to complain less and smile more, even when I come home to snow and settle back into the routine of real life. Laughing and smiling feels really good – I needed the reminder. Thanks Cambodia.
After lunch some settled in for a power nap before heading back to work. Myself, I resisted for fear of not wanting to wake up. The group bonding (and work) continued until 4pm. We came home, showered up and headed to the Kep Lodge for drinks and dinner. In keeping with our experience so far, the food was fantastic. By the way, our rooms at the Beach House are also really nice as we have a view overlooking the ocean. Air conditioning at night is a godsend.
In Cambodia, any future Developing World Connections participant need not worry about “roughing it.” On the contrary, if one were looking for a reason to complain, they could argue that we are living in too much luxury. My thoughts? Well, there really isn't really an 'in-between' alternative and our business is appreciated. More importantly, we do deserve it – we work hard. For those with guilty complexes, I suppose our comfort level compared to that of of the people we serve could make them feel uncomfortable. But no such guilt with this group. For me, the privilege of seeing the “poor” conditions of those we serve only reaffirms in me a greater sense of appreciation and gratitude. Besides, soon enough I will be back to wieners and microwave food so I chose to enjoy the good life while it lasts.
After dinner Chrystie led our group in a game of “how well do you know each other”. Everybody shared something interesting about themselves on a piece of paper and then we split into two groups. Each time one group guessed the correct person to which the tidbit applied, it got a point. I regret to inform you that I didn't know that my sister had one foot bigger than the other. I fear that moi, the intrepid leader himself, may have cost my team the game. I was forgiven. We shared more laughs, some more drinks and then we danced and relished in the moment. Fun and laughter is no doubt a major theme on this trip.
Up early, we had pancakes, omelets, juice and fruit for breakfast. More importantly, we had coffee which, to my surprise, was excellent. By 7:30am Cambodian time (i.e. 8am), we were off to work. Our group split into two. One group started building a 'dream home' from scratch while the other was charged with prepping and painting a community building. As part of the second group, I must admit I wasn't too stoked by the prospect of painting all day. I wondered if this wasn't just 'makework'. I reminded myself that this was something a large group could do efficiently and, in so doing, afford the the community time and energy for other things... that there was a purpose to all of this. Our group made the experience and we kept ourselves entertained with jokes, trivia, games and singing. All of us - particularly those of us with office jobs – really enjoyed using our hands and seeing the tangible benefits of our actions. I would love to know what the Cambodian staff working with us was thinking as our boisterous group laughed and laughed, although I can image they think we are a little “loplop” (crazy). Good times.
Both groups met up for a delicious lunch prepared by a women named Saran. Saran takes great pride in her food which is as colourful and delicious as her personality. Saran is a beautiful person inside and out with a genuine and lively spirit. Her smile and laughter are contagious. I am sure I am not the only man in this group who has a secret crush on her. I find the Cambodian people very warm and friendly, if not a little shy. Their character is very endearing. People smile a lot even if, from a Western perspective, many may have less reason to. I would like to make a public vow to complain less and smile more, even when I come home to snow and settle back into the routine of real life. Laughing and smiling feels really good – I needed the reminder. Thanks Cambodia.
After lunch some settled in for a power nap before heading back to work. Myself, I resisted for fear of not wanting to wake up. The group bonding (and work) continued until 4pm. We came home, showered up and headed to the Kep Lodge for drinks and dinner. In keeping with our experience so far, the food was fantastic. By the way, our rooms at the Beach House are also really nice as we have a view overlooking the ocean. Air conditioning at night is a godsend.
In Cambodia, any future Developing World Connections participant need not worry about “roughing it.” On the contrary, if one were looking for a reason to complain, they could argue that we are living in too much luxury. My thoughts? Well, there really isn't really an 'in-between' alternative and our business is appreciated. More importantly, we do deserve it – we work hard. For those with guilty complexes, I suppose our comfort level compared to that of of the people we serve could make them feel uncomfortable. But no such guilt with this group. For me, the privilege of seeing the “poor” conditions of those we serve only reaffirms in me a greater sense of appreciation and gratitude. Besides, soon enough I will be back to wieners and microwave food so I chose to enjoy the good life while it lasts.
After dinner Chrystie led our group in a game of “how well do you know each other”. Everybody shared something interesting about themselves on a piece of paper and then we split into two groups. Each time one group guessed the correct person to which the tidbit applied, it got a point. I regret to inform you that I didn't know that my sister had one foot bigger than the other. I fear that moi, the intrepid leader himself, may have cost my team the game. I was forgiven. We shared more laughs, some more drinks and then we danced and relished in the moment. Fun and laughter is no doubt a major theme on this trip.
What the group's expectations were before the trip.
December 8th:
Here are some the things people wrote about their expectations before coming on this trip:
“I am motivated to see the world and not from the balcony of some hotel. To really learn about the people, share our experiences and knowledge. I want my son Denver to have the same opportunity in the near future.”
“I want the chance to travel to new worlds, experience different cultures and to be a part of something that extends way beyond myself.”
“I am really looking forward to seeing in action what my brother works hard to promote and make happen.”
“I would like to use this opportunity to grow personally and get to know myself better through out the
adventure!”
“I'm quite excited to be part of this group. What a fantastic opportunity to do something out of the ordinary, to contribute, and to learn! I hope to be a help, not a burden; to meet people, to share stories and make connections;to learn a few new dance moves and to see a new part of the world for me. I also hope to have some great photos and stories to share when I return to Canada.”
“I am excited to learn about Cambodia and its people, and hoping to learn a little about myself as well.
I’d like to contribute, somehow, to making this world a better place for children to inherit. If the sun is out…oh yah I’m motivated!”
“I need to do something that means something beyond my own little world. Spontaneously attempting something out of my comfort zone.”
This group is here for the right reason. This a humble group that understands intuitively the difference between development work and service. This is a hard working bunch of people who needed to get away, gain some perspective and have some fun. So here we are, nourishing our souls and getting what we need while being of service to others. What a fantastic concept. With Developing World Connections, here we are living it.
After the orientation we went to the hotel, settled in and had dinner. The night was ours to enjoy the beach, reflect and rest.
Here are some the things people wrote about their expectations before coming on this trip:
“I am motivated to see the world and not from the balcony of some hotel. To really learn about the people, share our experiences and knowledge. I want my son Denver to have the same opportunity in the near future.”
“I want the chance to travel to new worlds, experience different cultures and to be a part of something that extends way beyond myself.”
“I am really looking forward to seeing in action what my brother works hard to promote and make happen.”
“I would like to use this opportunity to grow personally and get to know myself better through out the
adventure!”
“I'm quite excited to be part of this group. What a fantastic opportunity to do something out of the ordinary, to contribute, and to learn! I hope to be a help, not a burden; to meet people, to share stories and make connections;to learn a few new dance moves and to see a new part of the world for me. I also hope to have some great photos and stories to share when I return to Canada.”
“I am excited to learn about Cambodia and its people, and hoping to learn a little about myself as well.
I’d like to contribute, somehow, to making this world a better place for children to inherit. If the sun is out…oh yah I’m motivated!”
“I need to do something that means something beyond my own little world. Spontaneously attempting something out of my comfort zone.”
This group is here for the right reason. This a humble group that understands intuitively the difference between development work and service. This is a hard working bunch of people who needed to get away, gain some perspective and have some fun. So here we are, nourishing our souls and getting what we need while being of service to others. What a fantastic concept. With Developing World Connections, here we are living it.
After the orientation we went to the hotel, settled in and had dinner. The night was ours to enjoy the beach, reflect and rest.
The Group's Arrival in the village of Chamkar Bei
December 8th:
Looking and feeling surprisingly refreshed, the group was ready to finally discover Kep and the Village of Chamkar Bei and to meet our host partners. An hour or so in, we were all startled by a loud bang. My first thought was that we had hit one of the stray dogs that fearlessly navigate the streets. In fact, we had blown a tire. Experience dictates that, in the developing world, plans should be considered as guidelines and one should always expect the unexpected. Coming from a culture that obsessively manages risk and makes plans to plan, going with the flow doesn't always come easy. For better or worse, in a country like Cambodia, where many people are forced to live day to day, one can see the futility in making rigid plans too far into the future. My travels in the developing world always serve me well as a reminder to make plans, but to stay flexible … and to not allow myself to get bent out of shape when life happens not as planned.
Our bus driver - whose name I won't even attempt to spell – is excellent. He is very shy and even my attempts at non-verbal communication fall short. But, most importantly, he is an excellent driver and we all feel very secure. We took advantage of this time out to munch on some bananas and drink some imitation Red Bull. We took lots of pictures with locals and Shalen even got her hair styled by a lovely girl. (When was the last time you saw a family run, road-side hair salon?) Very little goes to waste here – I could see the cut hair in the compost pile. Whether or not the driver needed help, some of the 'problem solvers' (i.e. the men) jumped and generously offered their brawn. Within half an hour we were back on the road with new used tire.
An hour later we stopped for a lunch and enjoyed the company of the children and seniors hovering around us hoping to sell us gum, tiger balm and trinkets. I always get a kick out the harmless dogs that circle the tables hoping for a scrap of food... and nobody cares. Can you imagine eating at a restaurant in North America with dogs circling? Were the average Cambodian to visit my world, s/he would think we were nothing short of uptight. But when in Rome, do as the Romans do. To my group's credit, nobody has seemed to be bothered by the 'strangeness' of life here (or at least nobody has complained). On the contrary, everybody would appear to enjoy the novelty. We ate an assorted array of dishes. Some of us took advantage of the fact that beer is as cheap as the water. Hesitant at first, many have now buckled and are ignoring the travel nurse's instructions not to have drinks with ice. So far, nobody has gotten sick – fingers crossed.
Bellies full, we sallied forth to the village of Chamcar Bei and to the Bridges Across Borders' (BAB) project site. Here, we met the Bridges Across Borders team and they gave us an orientation. They told us of the important work they do which is comprehensive and sustainable. BAB's work is the epidemy of participatory community development and responsible development practice.
Cambodia's history is horrifically violent. Nothing but time can heal the emotional scars of a traumatized people. Under Pol Pot, from 1974-79, educated people were systematically eliminated and families were torn apart and pitted against one another in a mass murder. The social systems and processes most of us take for granted, and sometimes aren't even aware of, were strategically attacked. Though lacking physical infrastructure and economic capital, it is, above all, Cambodia's social capital and human development that will secure its future. Talking with people, it would seem that most have adopted a spirit of forgiveness. Vy, our lovely Cambodian project manager, pointed out the house where the wife of the former Khmer Rouge boss in this area lives. This area was a Khmer Rouge strong hold. People would have good reason to despise this woman, yet she lives as any member of this community. Being witness to forgiveness and BAB's work gives me hope that Cambodia's future is a brighter one.
At the orientation, BAB's staff asked us why were here. In a group setting, it was interesting to observe everybody's responses: “I am here to learn from you.” “I am here to better understand Cambodian culture.” “I am here to help out where I can.” If anyone had harboured any romantic notions about teaching Cambodians how to be, they were not voiced. Our answers made me feel proud .
Looking and feeling surprisingly refreshed, the group was ready to finally discover Kep and the Village of Chamkar Bei and to meet our host partners. An hour or so in, we were all startled by a loud bang. My first thought was that we had hit one of the stray dogs that fearlessly navigate the streets. In fact, we had blown a tire. Experience dictates that, in the developing world, plans should be considered as guidelines and one should always expect the unexpected. Coming from a culture that obsessively manages risk and makes plans to plan, going with the flow doesn't always come easy. For better or worse, in a country like Cambodia, where many people are forced to live day to day, one can see the futility in making rigid plans too far into the future. My travels in the developing world always serve me well as a reminder to make plans, but to stay flexible … and to not allow myself to get bent out of shape when life happens not as planned.
Our bus driver - whose name I won't even attempt to spell – is excellent. He is very shy and even my attempts at non-verbal communication fall short. But, most importantly, he is an excellent driver and we all feel very secure. We took advantage of this time out to munch on some bananas and drink some imitation Red Bull. We took lots of pictures with locals and Shalen even got her hair styled by a lovely girl. (When was the last time you saw a family run, road-side hair salon?) Very little goes to waste here – I could see the cut hair in the compost pile. Whether or not the driver needed help, some of the 'problem solvers' (i.e. the men) jumped and generously offered their brawn. Within half an hour we were back on the road with new used tire.
An hour later we stopped for a lunch and enjoyed the company of the children and seniors hovering around us hoping to sell us gum, tiger balm and trinkets. I always get a kick out the harmless dogs that circle the tables hoping for a scrap of food... and nobody cares. Can you imagine eating at a restaurant in North America with dogs circling? Were the average Cambodian to visit my world, s/he would think we were nothing short of uptight. But when in Rome, do as the Romans do. To my group's credit, nobody has seemed to be bothered by the 'strangeness' of life here (or at least nobody has complained). On the contrary, everybody would appear to enjoy the novelty. We ate an assorted array of dishes. Some of us took advantage of the fact that beer is as cheap as the water. Hesitant at first, many have now buckled and are ignoring the travel nurse's instructions not to have drinks with ice. So far, nobody has gotten sick – fingers crossed.
Bellies full, we sallied forth to the village of Chamcar Bei and to the Bridges Across Borders' (BAB) project site. Here, we met the Bridges Across Borders team and they gave us an orientation. They told us of the important work they do which is comprehensive and sustainable. BAB's work is the epidemy of participatory community development and responsible development practice.
Cambodia's history is horrifically violent. Nothing but time can heal the emotional scars of a traumatized people. Under Pol Pot, from 1974-79, educated people were systematically eliminated and families were torn apart and pitted against one another in a mass murder. The social systems and processes most of us take for granted, and sometimes aren't even aware of, were strategically attacked. Though lacking physical infrastructure and economic capital, it is, above all, Cambodia's social capital and human development that will secure its future. Talking with people, it would seem that most have adopted a spirit of forgiveness. Vy, our lovely Cambodian project manager, pointed out the house where the wife of the former Khmer Rouge boss in this area lives. This area was a Khmer Rouge strong hold. People would have good reason to despise this woman, yet she lives as any member of this community. Being witness to forgiveness and BAB's work gives me hope that Cambodia's future is a brighter one.
At the orientation, BAB's staff asked us why were here. In a group setting, it was interesting to observe everybody's responses: “I am here to learn from you.” “I am here to better understand Cambodian culture.” “I am here to help out where I can.” If anyone had harboured any romantic notions about teaching Cambodians how to be, they were not voiced. Our answers made me feel proud .
Monday, December 8, 2008
Almost in Cambodia via Hong Kong
December 7th:
We all arrived in Hong Kong a little tired from the flight but excited to explore this new world. With the exception of my sister Bobbi, none of us had ever been to Hong Kong before. As such, for this trip, we have arranged a two night layover here. My sister used to be a flight attendant and knows the city quite well and she has been very helpful.
When we arrived we went straight to the hotel. Ahhh, there is nothing like a hot shower, a decent meal and a vertical nap after a 14 hour flight to refresh the spirit. We will all arrive in Cambodia refreshed and ready to go. Yesterday we took a half day tour of the city. We went to the 'peak' on Hong Kong Island for an impressive view of this incredibly vertical and dense city. Imagine the west end of Vancouver on steroids. As I understand, there are 7 million plus people who live in Hong Kong. It's incredible to think that this many people live in area that is likely no bigger (perhaps smaller) than my city of Kamloops. Kamloops only has 85,000 people! Indeed, land and space are at a premium here and can't be taken for granted. Our tour guide was explaining how the average family lives in 800 square foot apartments in sky scrapper buildings. When he was a child, his family had nine people - do the math.
But despite the lack of space, Hong Kong is most definitely not what I would call “developing” - far from it. Indeed, one would be hard pressed to find many other places on earth with such opulence. Hong Kong is definitely a paradox. It is incredibly clean and organized here on the surface, but we know the water isn't clean. The vendors are assertive but not aggressive. People wait at the cross walk even if there are no cars coming and I don't think it is because of fear of getting a fine, although I could be wrong. There isn't much space but people are very respectful of it. There is no democracy here, but it feels free. It's crazy but calm. Money rules here, and competition is the name of the game. Yet, I sense a genuine generosity of spirit here. People are nice. Many people speak English and those who don't will try with a smile.
I have never seen such incredible infrastructure. I have never seen so many Ferraris, Porches and Roles Royces. The people here are incredibly cosmopolitan and well dressed. It's like one big fashion show. I get the sense that shopping is the number one recreational sport here. Where does all the money come from? Hong Kong ain't cheap either. I am feeling a little over stimulated by the spectacle of all this. The commercialism and materialism is so in your face. Note to self: If I ever come to Hong Kong again, bring some nice clothes and a lot of money. After two days in Hong Kong I feel as I imagine I would feel in Vegas – glad to have gone but ready to leave.
Surely there is an unpleasant underbelly to Hong Kong as it can't all be this shinny and pretentious. No doubt, there is a strong sense of culture and pride that transcends the tourism, the banking and the pretense. We aren't here long enough to understand Hong Kong, just to experience it. I like Hong Kong, but I don't love it.
Today we are off to Cambodia and not a day too soon. Cambodia is our real reason, our real destination and where we seek the meaningful adventure. Juxtaposed to Hong Kong, Cambodia should offer us a starkly different experience. With much anticipation, excitement and a little nervousness, this group is poised and ready. We can make a difference. We don't say it out loud but we all know intuitively that the biggest difference to be made is going to be made in ourselves. By virtue of what a country can offer that is meaningful, Cambodia, we already know, is much wealthier than Hong Kong. We brace ourselves...with arms wide open.
We all arrived in Hong Kong a little tired from the flight but excited to explore this new world. With the exception of my sister Bobbi, none of us had ever been to Hong Kong before. As such, for this trip, we have arranged a two night layover here. My sister used to be a flight attendant and knows the city quite well and she has been very helpful.
When we arrived we went straight to the hotel. Ahhh, there is nothing like a hot shower, a decent meal and a vertical nap after a 14 hour flight to refresh the spirit. We will all arrive in Cambodia refreshed and ready to go. Yesterday we took a half day tour of the city. We went to the 'peak' on Hong Kong Island for an impressive view of this incredibly vertical and dense city. Imagine the west end of Vancouver on steroids. As I understand, there are 7 million plus people who live in Hong Kong. It's incredible to think that this many people live in area that is likely no bigger (perhaps smaller) than my city of Kamloops. Kamloops only has 85,000 people! Indeed, land and space are at a premium here and can't be taken for granted. Our tour guide was explaining how the average family lives in 800 square foot apartments in sky scrapper buildings. When he was a child, his family had nine people - do the math.
But despite the lack of space, Hong Kong is most definitely not what I would call “developing” - far from it. Indeed, one would be hard pressed to find many other places on earth with such opulence. Hong Kong is definitely a paradox. It is incredibly clean and organized here on the surface, but we know the water isn't clean. The vendors are assertive but not aggressive. People wait at the cross walk even if there are no cars coming and I don't think it is because of fear of getting a fine, although I could be wrong. There isn't much space but people are very respectful of it. There is no democracy here, but it feels free. It's crazy but calm. Money rules here, and competition is the name of the game. Yet, I sense a genuine generosity of spirit here. People are nice. Many people speak English and those who don't will try with a smile.
I have never seen such incredible infrastructure. I have never seen so many Ferraris, Porches and Roles Royces. The people here are incredibly cosmopolitan and well dressed. It's like one big fashion show. I get the sense that shopping is the number one recreational sport here. Where does all the money come from? Hong Kong ain't cheap either. I am feeling a little over stimulated by the spectacle of all this. The commercialism and materialism is so in your face. Note to self: If I ever come to Hong Kong again, bring some nice clothes and a lot of money. After two days in Hong Kong I feel as I imagine I would feel in Vegas – glad to have gone but ready to leave.
Surely there is an unpleasant underbelly to Hong Kong as it can't all be this shinny and pretentious. No doubt, there is a strong sense of culture and pride that transcends the tourism, the banking and the pretense. We aren't here long enough to understand Hong Kong, just to experience it. I like Hong Kong, but I don't love it.
Today we are off to Cambodia and not a day too soon. Cambodia is our real reason, our real destination and where we seek the meaningful adventure. Juxtaposed to Hong Kong, Cambodia should offer us a starkly different experience. With much anticipation, excitement and a little nervousness, this group is poised and ready. We can make a difference. We don't say it out loud but we all know intuitively that the biggest difference to be made is going to be made in ourselves. By virtue of what a country can offer that is meaningful, Cambodia, we already know, is much wealthier than Hong Kong. We brace ourselves...with arms wide open.
En route to Cambodia
December 5th:
This meaningful adventure to Cambodia has finally become a reality. After months of preparation and anticipation, here we are, at last, en route to Cambodia. Having waited and waited and waited, to finally be here, past the point of no return, gives me a feeling that can best be described as surreal.
Half the group has started this journey in Kamloops. Getting on to the plane in Kamloops my bags were thoroughly searched and swabbed for bomb materials. Apparently the big toothpaste containers are dangerous and the little ones aren't. Who knew? Oh well, at least I can rest assured that I am safe – at least from Kamloops to Vancouver. I find it ironic and counter intuitive how security checks are always so much better in the small airports as opposed to the larger ones. This is a post 911 world.
We arrived in Vancouver and went through yet another round of security checks and my passport checked another half dozen times. I was pleased to learn something in my bag leaked (insert sarcasm). No matter, at this stage, no small annoyance could dampen (no pun intended) my excitement to meet other members of our team and get this show on the road to Cambodia. We all met up and we chatted, some slept and others played a game of Uno. Amongst peoples' laughter and excitement, I sat back and reveled in some joyful and self-satisfied contemplation about the meaning of all of this. I can't wait to observe people's reactions and live vicariously through the experiences of those who have never been to a developing country. I suddenly developed an acute sense of the extent of my responsibility as well; this doesn't feel like a burden, but rather a privilege. In this moment, my resolve and commitment to these generous people, this experience, our hosts partners and our movement has never been stronger. Like all other Developing World Connections team leaders, I am so pleased to be part of peoples' meaningful experiences.
Inevitably our four hour layover increased to a 5.5 hour layover as we were delayed for mechanical issues. Our 13 hour flight time also increased to 14 hours, I suppose because of the winds. As I write this, I find myself at above 30,000 feet,cramped like a chilled sardine into an impressively large B777-300E. With literally hundreds of people, it's like a floating village up here. Lucky for me, I am sitting, next to crying babies and the bathroom (again, insert sarcasm). Sleep is a luxury I don't expect to get much of in the next hours.
As we boarded the plane we walked through the 'first class' section where people actually had their own beds. I couldn't help thinking that maybe they insist of putting us economy folk in the back of the bus, almost just to rub it in – if I hadn't seen what I was missing, I may not have missed it. Promptly after being seated, the curtain was closed to separate us from those in the front. It dawned on me that the seating on a plane is a metaphor for the social structure of society in the developing world: a vast majority of less-than-comfortable people living next to a small elite. With the curtains closed, those with the privilege of space, good service and food are less bothered by the masses. As we took off, I couldn't help wondering, from an economics point of view, whether it was the first class passengers who were effectively subsidizing the cost of a ticket for the economy class, or vice versa? In any case, if we could have all shared the same space equally, the net increase in comfort would have been drastically disproportionate to the net decrease. In any case, no matter our seat, I am sure we all could agree and hope that our pilots knew what they were doing; God forbid in the case of an emergency we would all go down together.
I suppose one could easily get frustrated by air travel. But, contrary to my complaints, its all good. Given the upbeat and positive disposition of all the participants, it is evident that this group will not be daunted. I suppose, in a way, this is good practice for the inevitable 'spontaneity' of the developing world. Better yet, I consider this nothing less than a personal opportunity to practice surrender. Inflicted with the 'convenience is king' and 'time is money' attitudes prevalent in my culture, just going with the flow doesn't always come easily and I am certainly not immune. However, I do hope this experience will gently challenge me to, at very least, boost my immunity.
So far I can tell we have an excellent group of people. It will be interesting to see how the dynamics evolve when we are challenged. I sense that we all have open minds and a genuine curiosity and desire to be of service. With an air of humility and dispossessed of rigid expectations, we stand poised for nothing less than meaningful adventure.
This meaningful adventure to Cambodia has finally become a reality. After months of preparation and anticipation, here we are, at last, en route to Cambodia. Having waited and waited and waited, to finally be here, past the point of no return, gives me a feeling that can best be described as surreal.
Half the group has started this journey in Kamloops. Getting on to the plane in Kamloops my bags were thoroughly searched and swabbed for bomb materials. Apparently the big toothpaste containers are dangerous and the little ones aren't. Who knew? Oh well, at least I can rest assured that I am safe – at least from Kamloops to Vancouver. I find it ironic and counter intuitive how security checks are always so much better in the small airports as opposed to the larger ones. This is a post 911 world.
We arrived in Vancouver and went through yet another round of security checks and my passport checked another half dozen times. I was pleased to learn something in my bag leaked (insert sarcasm). No matter, at this stage, no small annoyance could dampen (no pun intended) my excitement to meet other members of our team and get this show on the road to Cambodia. We all met up and we chatted, some slept and others played a game of Uno. Amongst peoples' laughter and excitement, I sat back and reveled in some joyful and self-satisfied contemplation about the meaning of all of this. I can't wait to observe people's reactions and live vicariously through the experiences of those who have never been to a developing country. I suddenly developed an acute sense of the extent of my responsibility as well; this doesn't feel like a burden, but rather a privilege. In this moment, my resolve and commitment to these generous people, this experience, our hosts partners and our movement has never been stronger. Like all other Developing World Connections team leaders, I am so pleased to be part of peoples' meaningful experiences.
Inevitably our four hour layover increased to a 5.5 hour layover as we were delayed for mechanical issues. Our 13 hour flight time also increased to 14 hours, I suppose because of the winds. As I write this, I find myself at above 30,000 feet,cramped like a chilled sardine into an impressively large B777-300E. With literally hundreds of people, it's like a floating village up here. Lucky for me, I am sitting, next to crying babies and the bathroom (again, insert sarcasm). Sleep is a luxury I don't expect to get much of in the next hours.
As we boarded the plane we walked through the 'first class' section where people actually had their own beds. I couldn't help thinking that maybe they insist of putting us economy folk in the back of the bus, almost just to rub it in – if I hadn't seen what I was missing, I may not have missed it. Promptly after being seated, the curtain was closed to separate us from those in the front. It dawned on me that the seating on a plane is a metaphor for the social structure of society in the developing world: a vast majority of less-than-comfortable people living next to a small elite. With the curtains closed, those with the privilege of space, good service and food are less bothered by the masses. As we took off, I couldn't help wondering, from an economics point of view, whether it was the first class passengers who were effectively subsidizing the cost of a ticket for the economy class, or vice versa? In any case, if we could have all shared the same space equally, the net increase in comfort would have been drastically disproportionate to the net decrease. In any case, no matter our seat, I am sure we all could agree and hope that our pilots knew what they were doing; God forbid in the case of an emergency we would all go down together.
I suppose one could easily get frustrated by air travel. But, contrary to my complaints, its all good. Given the upbeat and positive disposition of all the participants, it is evident that this group will not be daunted. I suppose, in a way, this is good practice for the inevitable 'spontaneity' of the developing world. Better yet, I consider this nothing less than a personal opportunity to practice surrender. Inflicted with the 'convenience is king' and 'time is money' attitudes prevalent in my culture, just going with the flow doesn't always come easily and I am certainly not immune. However, I do hope this experience will gently challenge me to, at very least, boost my immunity.
So far I can tell we have an excellent group of people. It will be interesting to see how the dynamics evolve when we are challenged. I sense that we all have open minds and a genuine curiosity and desire to be of service. With an air of humility and dispossessed of rigid expectations, we stand poised for nothing less than meaningful adventure.
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)