Showing posts with label Cambodia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cambodia. Show all posts

Monday, February 23, 2015

February 21, 2015: Sad Farewell

Thursday was a quieter day around each project site with finishing touches (install toilet, fishing concrete, roof and doors) being complete by Mr. Son and ourselves.


Following a few photo ops, hugs and thanks we were off to lunch and then to a local school (Our School) located in Chamcar Bei where a school tour awaited. At the school we also provided donation of school supplies, books and tooth brushes. Additional donations of clothing were donated to EC for distribution to families in need at a later date. Funds were also provided to purchase filters for school water filtration systems.

Friday, we say good by tongue Spring Valley Resort (our home for the last two weeks) and begin our trip back to Phnom Penh.  Our lunch today was at "Friends Romdeng" restaurant where everyone was treated to tarantula (even a live one).

Where have the last two weeks gone? This is my third International Volunteer Experience (IVE) with DWC and first as a team leader. Without question, the last day is the most difficult. It is a time to reflect on the activities of past two weeks and to know that our contribution may be small in scope but huge in the hearts of those we have connected with. 

As we depart on extended vacation, or for home, we will carry in our hearts those experiences, memories and friendships, to be shared with family and friends (at home), reflected upon and cherished for a long time.  Equitable Cambodia (specifically Vy) is instrumental in ensuring the success of both our experience and also project completion. Maintaining communication lines between the DWC Team, contractors and families and ensuring all in country arrangements are in order. Vy, thank you so much. Lastly, I would like to thank our team:
  • Tom, Bill and Evey (Kamloops, BC)
  • Lindy (Prince George, BC) 
  • Lynda, my sister (Nanaimo, BC). 
  • Betty (Toronto, Ont.) 
  • Liz (Clearwater, BC) 
  • Jeries and Chelsea (Newmarket, Ont.)
Your desire and passion to help others has made this possible. I am truly grateful to have shared this IVE with you. A special thank you to all of you.


Don Brimacombe
DWC Volunteer Team Leader
Cambodia: February 2015

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

February 18, 2015: Weekend Fun and Back to Work!

The last five days have flown by. Our weekend included a half day road trip to Kampot with a visit to the fish market, lunch at The Rusty Keyhole (famous for its ribs) and a foot massage at seeing hand massage (provided by blind masseuse). Our drive back to Kep was highlighted by a karaoke session to "Dancing Queen" lead by Chelsea. Back in Kep, everyone took time walking the beach, hiking in Kep national forest, relaxing at Spring Valley Resort and another massage for some. Dinner at the Spring Valley Resort included traditional Khmer food in a street vender format (an interactive eating experience enjoyed by everyone). I understand the passion fruit punch was a particular hit. Sunday was spent on Rabbit Island hiking the shoreline, sun worshiping and massage. Great relaxing day on the island.

We are now three days into week 2 and both teams have made amazing progress with pits dug, concrete pipes installed and back filled and brick work complete. The concrete finish is continuing at both sites.


Bill, Evy, Liz, Tom and Betty are working at the home of a local family and are treated with fresh coconut and bananas. Liz, one of our teachers on board and resident animal lover, has been tending to the farm animals, and conducting impromptu lessons and reading time with the children (a special experience for all involved).



Bill and Tom have worked tirelessly and creatively through the 35C temperatures and difficult ground conditions to dig the latrine pit. I understand the pit has an interesting spiral staircase. Betty and Evy have been busy laying bricks, applying and finishing concrete.

The second latrine is being constructed by Lynda, Lindy, Jeries, Chelsea and Don at the women handy craft project in Odong. The project provides training in various crafts (weaving, jewelry making) and an opportunity for the women to earn income. Our efforts are guided by our smiling and quiet contractor referred to as Uncle (or Po, his Khmer name). He ensures the site is ready for us each day and quietly guides us through our paces ensuring an acceptable finish. The digging of our pit was a team effort with everyone taking a turn in the pit.


Don Brimacombe
DWC Volunteer Team Leader
Cambodia. February 2015

Friday, February 13, 2015

February 13, 2015: Significant Progress

Wednesday and Thursday were focused days of work with considerable progress on both irrigation gates.



Wednesday's effort was rewarded with happy hour at The Veranda...needless to say there was much laughter (unfortunately some at Bill's expense). 

Friday was a special and eventful day. Our day started with visit to a local market to purchase a few items (flowers, fruit and incense) for a special event later that morning. We were blessed with a traditional Khmer prayer, chanting and memorial to Larry Steele, Lindy's husband. We were all blessed to be able to share in this special moment with Lindy. It was very beautiful. 





Following the Khmer ceremony we all put the finishing touches to the irrigation gate and then proceeded to the Vine for an early lunch. This was not to be a normal lunch.

Lunch as usual was exceptional, however as we were getting ready to leave a significant amount of smoke was noticed about 300 meters west of the Vine Resort. There gusty winds and the appearance that the fire was approaching the resort. There was a significant concern that the vine would be impacted, and staff (with assistance from DWC staff) were actively working on protecting the resort. Later in the day, the fire was put out and was reported to be about 7 hectares. The Vine was not impacted.

Following the excitement of the fire we visited the women's crafting project to view the making of scarves. Dinner today was at the Sailing Club where we experienced a magnificent sunset, great food and a bit jazz. What a day.

We have had a wonderful week. To paraphrase a comment made earlier today, "this is like no other holiday experience" and yet we have another week to go. Bring on the latrines.

Don Brimacombe
DWC Volunteer Team Leader
Cambodia: February 2015

Tuesday, February 10, 2015

February 10, 2015: Focused On The Task At Hand

Arriving at the worksite, the water had been drained and prepared for the inlet and outlet walls. There was a different feel around the project today...focused. Fairly quiet around each site as everyone was busy with task at hand. Today was also a special day in honour of Larry Steele, Lindy's beloved husband who passed recently. We all shared in Lindy's heartfelt blessing and dedicated this site in Larry's name. We are a team of eleven.


After lunch, brick laying continued followed with application of a finishing coat of cement to walls.


Again, a well deserved swim at Kep Beach greeted everyone after a good days work.

Don Brimacombe
DWC Volunteer Team Leader
Cambodia: February 2015

Monday, February 9, 2015

February 9, 2015: Ferris Wheels and Muddy Feet!

First day on project started with a carnival type atmosphere. What started as a photo opportunity, turned into an unexpected early morning ferris wheel ride at a small carnival on route to Odong community.




Then it was on to begin construction of two irrigation gates. The gates will be used to manage water flow while providing access across the many irrigation channels. 

Our extended travel to Kep (32 - 36hrs) over the last two days did not deter anyone from enthusiastically getting started with both hands and bare feet. Prior to lunch, footings were excavated for both gates, rock was placed and cement mixed. Then it was off to the Vine Restaurant for lunch.


The afternoon started as everyone expected with placement of the concrete pipes when unfortunately one of the near by gates was opened and resulting in the flooding of our work site. Amazing to see everyone's quick response to remedy the situation (creating a new ditch block up stream and dewatering the project sites). A slight delay. Huge effort by everyone today rewarded with a well deserved swim at Kep beach (muddy clothes and all) and a refreshing Angkor Beer.

Don Brimacombe
DWC Volunteer Team Leader 
Cambodia: February 2015

Sunday, February 8, 2015

February 8, 2015: Arrival to Phnom Pen

After about 32 to 36 hours of total travel, we arrive at Phnom Pehn around noon, just a little weary eyed and jet lagged. Greeted on arrival by Vy (or gracious host) and Betty. Betty arrived a day ahead (without luggage) and took in few sites (Royal Palace, national museum, Olympic stadium, Wat Bo, killing fields and genocide museum before meeting us on Sunday).

Next was a relatively short (4hrs) ride to Kep. Road travel in Cambodia is an experience where speed limits are not much of a factor and where one of your most important vehicle features is the the horn.

Our home in Kep for next two weeks will be the Spring Valley Resort.

Don Brimacombe
DWC Volunteer Team Leader
Cambodia: February 2015

Thursday, January 29, 2015

January 29, 2015: Reflections on Lessons Learned

Today I really learned what solidarity is.  It is being a friend and not a savior; working side by side to improve our world.  It really hit me today that just because I am privileged, in every way possible, does not mean that I am better or above anyone, anywhere.  Seeing the workplace, the market, and the school - seeing how they were all part of the global community - really changed my perspective.  Today is the most meaningful day of my life because I have realized that I have come to love the people I have been alongside for the past few days so much that leaving them makes me really sad.  But, leaving has also given me a purpose to come back!

Mariana Salazar
DWC Volunteer Participant
Cambodia.  January 29, 2015.  

Wednesday, January 28, 2015

January 28, 2015: Creating Lasting Change


Today was our last day at the work site in Kep.  I worked mostly by laying bricks and cementing down things.  Quite an adventure, I'd have to say!  I worked closely with a local that I nicknamed "The Laughing Man" because he laughed constantly and was smiling every second that he could.  I want to be the type of person that deserves a nickname like that.  The laughing man taught me about being the best kind of person in the world by doing nothing but being himself.  I am so glad I went on this trip because now I will never be a tourist again.  People go on vacation, do their thing, see some sights, eat some food, and then leave.  The city and country go on like they were never there.  The work we have done makes a change.  It will help people for years to come.  Kep district will remember DWC.

Julia Giraudi
DWC Volunteer Participant
Cambodia.  January 28, 2015

January 28: Living on a Dollar

Today, I woke up, had breakfast, and then the kids who were working on the latrines got to go to the market.  Many people in Cambodia live on less than a dollar a day.  My group was given one dollar in the market to buy food for two meals.  The market was extremely different from all the grocery stores and markets in Canada.  All the food was fresh and there were even live chickens.  The market was crowded with little huts of Cambodians selling food.  Flies were everywhere, swarming over the raw meat.  It was interesting to see how different our culture is from Cambodian culture.


Trying to buy food at the market with only one dollar was very hard!!  Things were expensive.  We tried bargaining with the women but they couldn't understand us.  It was challenging.  Half way through the market, I began to think about the people in Cambodia that actually live on a dollar a day.  It made me sad, especially when I realized how hard it really is to do.  This was an experience I will never forget.

Alexandria Collymore
DWC Volunteer Participant
Cambodia.  January 28, 2015.

January 28, 2015: Smile and the World Smiles Back!

Today I woke up and my whole body was sore from the work I did the day before.  The group started to build a watergate in a rural place in Kep.  It is amazing to see the difference with only 20 minutes of driving how we can go from a tourist area to a non-paved road with tattered houses; the difference really hit us all greatly.  The reality about the level of poverty in the world is something that those from Canada are not usually exposed to, but from this experience we can see how the majority of the world lives their lives. 

 
From working in the rural area I was able to interact with local people living in the area.  I've never regretted something in my life so much as not learning the language of Khmer.  The language barrier is such a big thing that I never noticed before, but being here, I feel sad that I couldn't communicate properly.  Although we cannot understand one another, the people here are so nice and welcoming that we just get by with gestures or actions.  When the locals, including the kids and adults, smile, I can't do anything but smile back because their smiles are so beautiful and warm.  All of the people here are happy and nothing how I expected them to be.  Just being with them and interacting with them has been a life changing experience.  My whole perspective on life has changed in a matter of days, and I want to change as a person but there is so much to take in right now that I am only confused. 

Momo Sakudo
DWC Volunteer Participant
Cambodia.  January 28, 2015.

Tuesday, January 27, 2015

January 27, 2015: If you can't beat the heat...join 'em!

Today was a hot day in my books.  Drenched in sweat and sunburned like crazy, I finally experienced a "slightly warm" day in Cambodia.  At the worksite today I met Tim.  He teaches English at the school and is great at speaking it.  He wants me to come back tomorrow and teach him all the English slang words I know.  Throughout the day, I waved and smiled at every person I drove past or walked past.  What truly made me amazed was how every person, young or old, smiled and waved back.  It didn't matter what conditions they were in, they gave a genuine smile and welcomed you.  I guess the only person that didn't wave back was the young boy that shook his bum at us and laughed as we drove past.  He was very pleased with himself!


The day was long but gratifying because I made real connections and the work I did is for a great cause.  Tim quizzed us on our voting system but he dodged our comments about his own government with an embarrassed laugh.  It will be interesting going forward to see the political views of Cambodian people.

Christopher Kearney
DWC Volunteer Participant
Cambodia. January 27, 20105.

January 27, 2015: The Kindest Side of Humanity

I just want to start off by saying that the people are amazing in this country.  While we work on the projects, the people just showed us the kindest side of humanity I have ever seen.  Whenever you try to say a word in Khmer, their faces light up and they love that you're trying to speak to them.  The projects we are here to work on are to build 2 bathroom/latrines and 2 water gates.  I love working on these projects because they will actually have an impact on the farmers in the area in a positive way.  So many people's lives will be changed forever!

Victor Castro
DWC Volunteer Participant
Cambodia.  January, 27, 2015.

Monday, January 26, 2015

January 26, 2015: Arrival to Phnom Penh


Phnom Penh was nothing like anyone expected.  All the stores in the main area were all so Canadianized with English words.  We then later realized that kids are taught in school the English language.  It's very hard for people to find a job if they don't know how to speak English.  Yet it is so expensive to go to school for the children.  You're forced to buy the uniform, the supplies, snacks and on top of that, teachers make next to nothing so they make students pay for their textbooks and stuff.  You can't blame the teachers though because they do what they have to to pay the bills and support their families.   It hurts to see how happy everyone is when they have nothing.  But nothing is enough for them and that's what people don't realize.  We who live in Canada have everything compared to them.  We have no right to complain or be sad about what we don't have.  To wrap everything up from the first day, it was shocking.  I just hope that we can get a chance to find out more about the politics.

Kaitlin Mitchell and Yvonne Seles
DWC Volunteer Participants
Cambodia.  January, 2015.

Saturday, July 12, 2014

July 12: Transit from Kep to Phnom Penh and Beyond

We packed up, relaxed just a little and said ‘goodbye’ to The Beach House, our home for nearly two weeks, at 1400 on Friday.  The drive back to Phnom Penh was at least as harrowing as the trip to Kep, but this time I sat in the front seat and took a few photos.  This also allowed me to use one of the few seatbelts onboard as seatbelts are mandatory in Cambodia for the front seat.

Traffic was noticeably heavier due to the pop-up national holiday, with many families on the road in both directions.  We made the same halfway stop at Takeo for drinks and to see a little more local flavor.  It was there that we saw one of the most packed cars of the trip.  While departing a stop a Toyota Camry passed us with at least nine people inside.  To give you an idea how this is accomplished, the person on the far left of the front seat was NOT the driver.

About 30 km from Phnom Penh, the traffic was getting heavier though it continued move reasonably well.  At this point, though, our lead driver took a turn to an off-road hoping to go around the city and it’s traffic a little.  This led us on about an hour’s worth of the worst paved and semi-paved roads of the trip, back alleys, parking lots, and open fields that couldn’t possibly have save us any time.  Twice the drivers had to stop to try to determine where they were.

By the time we arrived in Phnom Penh, it was almost time for our 1800 dinner reservations at Malis.  We drove “straight” there and were greeted by a security guard that said that it was closed for the holiday.  Clearly, the person with whom I made reservations by telephone the night before was unaware of these plans.  We called a couple of other restaurants and then settled on returning to Khmer Surin, the large guest house and restaurant where we’d dined before flying to Siem Reap (seemingly) ages before.

The drivers got us there easily and we went to the third floor for an open air seat and were soon joined at the next table by six Chinese business men who decided that they needed to chain-smoke through their meal.  Luckily, there was a breeze and the ceiling fans were working overtime, but it was still annoying.

Our flight didn’t leave until 2320 that evening, so we had plenty of time for the meal, ordering drinks first (Beer Lao for Dylan, Dan, Winston, and me) and more frilly drinks for the rest of them.  We were glad Vy was dining with us one last time and I announced that her meal and Dan’s was on me as their “tip” for great, great help and guidance for the trip.  For appetizers, we had fresh and fried spring rolls and some excellent chicken satay in peanut sauce.  Winston was now on stag two of what was his typical diverse choice of beverages:  jasmine tea; beer lao; followed by a white Russian and then a cappuccino.

Our waiter hovered over us for quite some time, though we resisted him, wanting to stretch the meal out a little more since we weren’t planning to leave until at least 2000.  The waiter actually warned us that a couple of plates would take longer to prepare than others, but they seemed to arrive with the others.  I had a grilled whole tilapia that came out undercooked and raw in the middle.  Three of the cadets ordered Pad Thai, Vy had the frogs' legs, Dan ordered grilled whole catfish, Winston had fried rice in a pineapple, and I can't remember what Dylan got but think it was some noodle dish, too.  My fish came back recooked and was actually quite good.  Most of us ordered dessert, too, and we were ready to go at 2000.

Outside the restaurant, we said our goodbyes to Dan and Vy.  Both were like part of the team and they fit in well with us throughout their time.  There were hugs all around and promises of visits. (I'm planning to visit Hong Kong where Dan lives in October with Becky)  Both said that they would highly recommend any of us (even me, with some reservations) as team leaders for upcoming Developing World Connections/Equitable Cambodia service trips because of the great work we'd done and how well we'd embraced the culture and experience.  They again expressed their amazement that we'd survived three full weeks in Cambodia without any serious illness and only one person-day of work or touring missed.  I can't thank either one of them enough--we were so lucky to have them on the trip as well as the great guides and drivers.

Once again, traffic was terrible going to the airport.  We didn't arrive until after 2045 and finally pulled up to the curb to get our bags and tip our drivers.  I gave our part-timer $5 for safely bringing us from Kep and then I had to chase down Dee.  The cadets had given him $5 tip already and he'd hugged all of them with just a huge smile.  He'd really adopted us even though he spoke almost no English.  He's a REALLY excellent driver who we trusted implicitly.  Anyway, I ran him down in the drive-through area of the departure gates and knocked on his slowly moving window.  He pulled over and I gave him another $10 and he hugged me and we shook hands to say goodbye.  He also got a USAFA lapel pin.

Things got more interesting at the airport, though, for check-in.  The Korean Air agents were confused by our tickets and the fact that we were traveling to Denver on a total of three different airlines (Korean, Delta, Alaska) even though the Korean Air flight was code-shared with Delta.  When they finally worked all that out and told us that they couldn't give us boarding passes for Seattle to Denver, we hit another snag...  The agent noticed that Luke's passport lists his first name as Lucas, but the airline ticket was issued to "Luke."  She said that she couldn't issue him a boarding pass and apologized.  I started to raise a stink by pointing out that he's made it to Cambodia with the same credentials and ticketing, but she held firm.  We continued to try to explain and she finally got a supervisor.  He looked very concerned and said that the names didn't match.  We told him that we knew that and I became more assertive.  At this point, I didn't know what we were going to do--call the Embassy?  Call the government travel agent (Manassas Travel) or what.  It didn't help that, technically at least, the airline was right and this was something that we just hadn't caught.  He said that he would check with his manager and he came back with yet another person who finally approved the boarding passes for Luke/Lucas.  By now, our check-in process had gone on for over an hour and we were very glad that we'd arrived early.  We had only about 30 minutes from that point until we actually boarded the flight. Here are the photos from our journey back to Phnom Penh.

 All the Best,

Marty France
USAFA Faculty Chaperone & DWC Volunteer
Phnom Penh, Cambodia: July 2014

Thursday, July 10, 2014

July 10: The Weather Breaks!

On what was supposed to be our final work day, we were all a bit on edge because we wanted to work, but the weather had stymied us for two days and we were wondering if we'd have any chance at all.  There was rain overnight and, when I awoke, it looked like it had just stopped raining.  We all met for breakfast and it sprinkled just a bit--as we could see in the swimming pool--but the clouds didn't look as threatening and the wind wasn't so strong as in the last two days.

The forecast was still not good, so we left at 0800 hoping to get a chance.  When we arrived at the work site, our little bridge was totally submerged and we had to take another way around that included zig-zagging on the little levies that separate the rice paddies east of the houses.  As you walk along these, little frogs jump into the paddies and there were ducks enjoying the rains as well.  Cows are everywhere in rural (and urban) Cambodia, so we passed a few of them as well.

As usual, the families were there to great us, shake our hands and thank us for the work.  Jay was using a hatchet to turn a couple of branches and some leftover wood into scaffolding--some seriously impressive innovation--and Mr Song was helping him.  We started mixing mortar right away and went to work finishing the bricklaying.  Winston and I shoveled mud into the gaps around the concrete cylinders, too, while Mr Song leveled the mud/dirt inside the latrine and we distributed the base granite stones evenly and marked on the interior walls where the cistern containment would be.

The work went quickly except for a couple of frustrations with deciding how high to go and the correct slope for the roof.  Just as at the other site the previous week, I would put up bricks, Jay would tell me they were too high or that a vent was going into that spot, then a few minutes later, Mr Song would come over and tell Jay and me that we needed to go higher or that something else had to be fixed.

This touches on the whole translation thing.  With Vy working at the other site, we did seven days of work with no common language.  Jay knew "yes," "no," and "okay" in English, and I knew only "thank you," "hello," "goodbye" and how to count to five in Khmer.  This made for an excellent immersion experience for the cadets (and good patience training for me), but in the end it did cost us time and work.

We finally settled on heights and slopes, though, and soon began stuccoing the exterior of the latrine.  We had some mix issues (too thin) to begin, but those were solved quickly and Dan, Annie, and I got to work--with Tiem helping us, Jay finishing the top of the bricks, and Winston mixing.  The ladies and girls were constantly hauling new buckets of stucco to us when they weren't presenting us with fresh coconuts to drink with a straw or holding out baskets of fresh bananas and rambutan.  The other team didn't have as much support as we did and one less worker, so they were a bit frustrated and behind, but still happy to be moving along.

The weather continued to hold and was overall as pleasant or more so than Monday, with a nice breeze and overcast but light skies.  We worked hard and long, getting as much done as possible before breaking for lunch just after noon.  We drove to the Vines and everyone agreed that this should be our shortest lunch of the trip--we were all anxious to get back to work before the rains came again. Lunch included morning glories deep fried in a light eggy batter as well as another delicious soup and the ever-present rice.  We settled up for the additional drinks quickly and were back to work well before 1330.

From here on, both teams worked almost non-stop until 1730.  We had the usual breaks for iced-coffee and bananas, but those didn't last long.  Even Jay was taking fewer smoke breaks as we all thought that the rain would arrive at any moment--but it didn't.

After getting most of the exterior walls done, Jay and I went to work finishing them--Tiem worked on one wall himself--then Annie and Dan moved inside to start stuccoing there.  Winston kept us in stucco all afternoon and did some of that himself when we was ahead of the game.

And so the afternoon went--smoothing and evening the sides until they were flawless using a wet sponge and a straw broom as the finishing touches.  By 1700, it looked like we were going to finish the outside walls completely and that the basic coats of stucco would be done inside, too.  The other team found a stopping point and came over to see our work--it was also on the way back to the van since we now walked an alternate route.  Jay and Tiem moved inside the latrine to do finished work and I helped for awhile, but it was obvious that we'd hit our stopping point and it was time to go by about 1715.  Mr Song and Vy assured us that the workers would be able to finish everything on Friday and that it was okay to leave, so we began saying out goodbyes to the family (grandma, two of the three sisters, and three granddaughters) who'd been feeding us so well.  We took photos and had our hands shaken about a hundred times.  It was just a superb ending to two weeks of work and everyone clearly appreciated the entire experience.

On the way back to the hotel, we decided that we would, in fact, wade out to the Kep Crab for photos.  I set the camera up for Vy and as we arrived it looked like the tide was going out and that we'd have no trouble getting there from the narrow, but sandy, shoreline.  Winston and I took off our boots and waded in socks because of the many rocks, a couple of the cadets kept their shoes on, and we started the meter wade to the base of the Crab.

Vy took the first set of photos and then we decided (on Dan's urging and demonstration) that we could climb onto the platform.  Luke found a couple of large, strategically place rocks near the platform and we were able to swing ourselves up.  Luke and Hansena climbed farther up the Crab and we took another round of photos.  After that, Dan climbed down and scouted the bottom to find a sandy section not too far away from the platform and I jumped off, seat first, landing easily in the shallow water--rock free.  The others followed suit and we were all wading back in a few seconds.

When we got to the road, we all realized that we didn't want to get into Dee's van and mess it all up, so the cadets decided to run back to the hotel--about a half mile.  So, we made a very interesting picture to the locals as seven fully-clothed but soaking wet people were jogging along the seashore's sidewalk, squishing with every step.

We were back to the hotel by 1830 and decided to go out to one last dinner at Holy Crab that night, leaving at 1915.  On our way over, though, Vy called us to say that Holy Crab wasn't open on Thursdays, so we chose our second favorite restaurant in Kep--La Baraka.

We were seated outside at Lar Baraka on their upper deck and had ordered drinks and were enjoying them.  Everyone was very pleased with their day amazed that the time had gone so fast.  Suddenly, though, our luck ran out and we heard the "plop, plop" of a few big raindrops and then suddenly it was like someone had turned on a shower head directly above us.  We were drenched in a matter of seconds and sent scurrying inside with our drinks.  The staff, though, was very accommodating and found us a table within minutes.  We'd beaten the rain on our final work day and it all felt good.  Everyone was so tired that dessert was ruled out and everyone went straight to their rooms upon return to the hotel. Here's the slide show from today--I'm up to almost 5000 shots for the trip.

All the Best,

Marty France
USAFA Faculty Chaperone & DWC Volunteer
Kep, Cambodia: July 2014

July 10: Last Morning in Kep

I woke up early and couldn't get back to sleep, so that's how I got the blog posted from yesterday.  We'd planned to meet at 0630 to walk to the Crab Market, but none of the cadets showed up.  I told them the night before that that was no big deal and that I'd leave with whomever wanted to go at 0630.  It's about a 20 minute walk and when I got there, things were just setting up.  Fish were already grilling and vendors were cooking bowls of Khmer breakfast noodle soup.  Restaurants were sweeping out their front entry areas and cleaning up from last night's rain and wind.  It was low tide and about a dozen people were scavenging for crabs, snails, and the like in the tide pools, sand, and exposed rocks.  Crab pots were in and there had already arrived some bucket so live tiger shrimp and other varieties that were being picked through for size by the retailers.  I didn't stay long and paid $2 for a tuk-tuk ride back to the Beach House, arriving at about 0715.

By then, Dan was up and had ordered breakfast.  I ordered Khmer soup with prawns and went to the room to finish packing and get ready for the morning.  The girls came down and did the same thing, but none of the guys even showed up until Winston came down at 0755, followed by Luke, then Dylan.  They all skipped breakfast or had snacks in their rooms because we were supposed to leave at about 0800 as usual.  Vy was there and she outlined our plans again:  school visit with soccer game; visit women's vocational training center, the a final lunch at the Vine, back to the hotel, checkout at 1400 and then the drive to Phnom Penh.
The weather was excellent with finally some clearing and blue skies as we drove to "Our School," a small K-12 school near the Vine retreat that we'd driven by before Savorn (mentioned earlier) is an English teacher at the school and his wife is the librarian.  The school was originally run by an NGO and funded in large part by the Korean government, but has since been taken over by the local community.

We  learned when we arrived that today had been declared a national holiday by the king and the government and that school would not be in session.  However, many kids showed up anyway at the request of Savorn and the other teachers.  About 30 kids and several teachers greeted us when we arrived.  Savorn showed us around the peppercorn farm that he also manages which is located adjacent to the school.  He said that it had 1125 plants which produced between one-half and one kilo each per year.  He was very proud of the irrigation system that pumped water from a reservoir pond to a small water tower about four meters off the ground, then into the pepper plants.  They also had some pretty large cow manure piles that they used for fertilizer.  He said that as part of his job (his house was next door), he also managed a newly planted mango orchard that had 3000 trees on 10 hectares of land (almost 25 acres).  Savorn's house looked nice and modern compared to most in the area with a steel roof. It was obviously well-maintained.  He said that the community and school provided him with the house as a condition of employment.

From the peppercorn vines, we went back to the school and looked into the classrooms.  They were very basic, with minimal lighting.  They did, however, have a nice computer room with 15 new Toshiba laptops and it was clear from the posters and writing on the board that they were teaching spreadsheet use, some basic coding, and the use of other apps.  The entire school has nine teachers and its annual budget is $12K.  Yes, I said $12K.  That both impressed and saddened me at the same time.  Kids have to pay a small fee, equal to $0.50 per month from their families to attend, but everything else is free.

We then went to the soccer field for about 45 minutes of spirited, but rough (with loose rules) sport on the mostly dirt field.  All of the cadets played as did Dan, Savorn, and one of Savorn's friends.  About 20 kids played.  They split into two teams that were roughly boys versus girls, though Dan and Savorn played on the girl's side.  We had a lot of fun watching the game and everyone was sweating profusely within a few minutes.  The kids (mostly ages 6-12) had a blast and really showed a lot of spirit and enthusiasm.  The cadets ate it up, too.

After soccer, we moved to the front of one of the buildings and Dan sang some songs with his guitar.  We were trying to find some songs that everyone would enjoy (with some participation) and Hansena and Annie demonstrated and taught them to do the Hokey-Pokey.  The kids loved it, though they didn't get the right versus left thing entirely.  They all giggled and laughed when Hansena called them to put their "butt in" and their "butt out," then shake it all about.  I videoed the whole scene with my camera.  The kids like it so much that they did it again to huge applause.  They then sang one of their songs and we cheered.

Finally, it was time to go, so I pulled out some of our gifts.  I gave Savorn a USAFA pin for his lapel and then pulled out the gross (144) of USAFA emblazoned pencils that we'd brought with us from Colorado.  To my surprise, the kids all lined up--girls on one side, boys on the other--to receive their pencils.  I had more than enough for two each, so I gave them each two and they politely said "thank you" in English of "akun" in Khmer, each treating their new pencils like gold.  I gave the remaining pencils to Savorn as well as some foam rubber baseballs with USAFA logos, some lanyards, and other stuff.  The kids stayed in their lines and we did high-fives down the line with each cadet before regrettably saying "goodbye."
We next went to a vocational training center where local girls and women were learning to weave silk scarves by hand, make coconut shell jewelry, and other artisanal crafts.  This was an example of another NGO that had started a local training shop but had now given it over to operate as a real business.  We'd seen their products for sale in local hotel and really like it, so it was nice to be able to see the crafts being made an then purchase some more souvenirs at very good prices.

It was finally time for our last lunch at The Vine Retreat.  What a great, secluded guest house with just awesome food that we'd enjoyed for almost two weeks.  I probably gained weight on this trip and The Vine is the primary culprit.  We had another great squash soup as well as squid with fresh green peppercorns--both delicious as usual.  I gave one of my Tripadvisor "Excellent Service" pins to the woman who had been taking care of us during our visits.  This was clearly one of the highlights of the trip.

We all decided to just get back to the hotel as quickly as possible to rest, shower, and finish packing before the arduous and thrilling drive back to Phnom Penh.  Once there, we plan to go to Malis for dinner before Dan an Vy drop us off at the airport for a wonder 2320 departure to Seoul.  Here's the whole day's slideshow.

All the Best,

Marty France
USAFA Faculty Chaperone & DWC Volunteer
Kep, Cambodia: July 2014

Tuesday, July 8, 2014

July 8: Rain Out

We awoke to torrential rain and thunder, but hoped that things would clear and we drove to our work sites this morning.  It looked like our hopes would be fulfilled as we saw a few glimmers of blue and the precipation subsided for a little while.  When we arrived and parked the van, the little pond we needed to cross was swollen and the palm log was insufficient to cross. The homeowner graciously waded out into the pond barefoot (clearly thinking, "What's up with the American's that can't get their feet wet") and placed another log to bridge part of the gap.  The last few steps were still tricky, though, much to the delight of our spectators.

We each split up into our two groups and headed over to work.  Just the senior sister was home at our project and she was very happy to see us again.  Vy told us the day before that she was 49, but she looked easily 60.  She doesn't know a word of English, but we're all trying to communicate and learn a few words--Winston most of all.

We bailed our cement pit of water--it had about two inches of standing water in it from the rain--and were close to beginning to mix concrete when Jay pointed to the Southeast and we saw a squall line incoming.  We waited for almost two hours for the weather to clear, but we never go to the point of being able to mix concrete and go to work.  Vy translated for me as I spoke to the woman of the house and senior of the three sisters that we met the day before.  She said that five lived in the house, plus the grandmother who often slept there.  This included her daughter (teenager), her youngest sister who had a small baby, and her son.  All three of the sisters were widows.  The youngest had just lost her husband recently, while the oldest had lost her husband in conflicts with the Khmer Rouge after the 1979 liberation.  She said that her husband had been in the Army and had died shortly after their daughter (youngest child) was born.  The daughter looks like she's about 16 or 17, so that would put his death sometime in the late 90s.  She also said that her middle sister just lived a few kilometers away and visited often.  I asked who worked the rice fields that surrounded the house and she said that she did most of the work.  Having seen her use the hoe to dig the day before, I believed her! She also pointed out her well that had been built four year before with contributions from a Cambodian restaurant in California.  Looking into the well, you could see that the water table was only about a meter down.  Still, they got all of their water from it. Vy said that any drinking or cooking water is first boiled, though, and since it tastes so bad they usually only drink it in the form of tea.  (Photos)




At about 1030, we decided to just go to the Vines, tour the peppercorn farm, catch an early lunch and hope things would clear.  Lunch was again fantastic with a fish and tomato soup and some stir-fired veggies. We are eating healthily here.  Soon after we started eating the weather seemed to clear and we went about a half hour without a sprinkle.  Vy called Mr Song and we packed up after lunch and headed back to work.  I did get a chance to take some pictures of Dan's friend, Savorn, and his 18-month-old son which I liked a lot. (Photos) I also took a lot of flower shots... (Photos)



When we arrived back the work site, the water had gone down in the pond and we forded it easily.  It wasn't raining, so at our site we bailed out the new inch of water in the concrete ring and Annie and Winston wanted to start mixing a batch even though jay wasn't there yet to give instructions.  I cautioned against it and Dan agreed.  Dan pointed out that losing a full bag of cement was probably more costly to them that a day's work--the raw materials were relatively expensive--and that we should proceed without Jay's direction and some clearer skies.  Sure enough, about five minutes later, the skies opened up and it rained for the next 90 minutes almost non-stop.  We sat on the  front porch of our homeowners house and just watched it rain.  In the barnyard area, rain ran like little rivers towards the rice paddies that were gently terraced and connected with small drainage ditches to slow the flow between each and keep the young rice submerged by about three inches.  The rain just didn't let up.  We couldn't even get back to the work site for some time and when it slowed for a few minutes, it would recommence even harder than before.

By 1400, we just decided that we just had to call it a day.  It rained all of the way back to the hotel and is still drizzling as I write this.   The forecast isn't much better for our remaining days either.  We'd been lucky in the first week to get the work done with only minor interruptions for rain, but this IS the rainy season and our luck seems to have run out.  We're committed to doing as much as possible and will work into Friday morning if the weather allows.  Still, the cadets are disappointed and frustrated to have a task in front of them and not be able to get it done. (Photos)


Everyone relaxed for about 90 minutes back at the hotel and we slowly congregated on the deck/cabana area to play some pool and cards.  There's really not much else left to do until the weather clears, so we'll try to make the best of it.
Here's today's slide show...

 All the Best,

Marty France
USAFA Faculty Chaperone & DWC Volunteer
Kep, Cambodia: July 2014

Monday, July 7, 2014

July 7: Latrines Week Two--New Work Site

There was quite the thunderstorm here last night at about 0400 with torrential rain and lightning, but when we woke up the rain had stopped long before breakfast and it was breezy and noticeably cooler.

I woke up early and got some work done writing and working on photos and got a Facebook message from Annie that she wasn't feeling well.  I went next door to check on her and she was nauseous and had spent most of the night dizzy and in cold sweats.  She didn't have a noticeable fever, so I ruled out malaria and chalked it up to probably not taking yesterday's two plus hours on a rocking boat at sea too well.  She admitted that she hadn't probably had enough water, too, so I encouraged her to drink a full bottle and start working on another.  After a conference with Dan and Vy, we decided to leave Dan's cell phone with her and let her stay in the room and rest for the day.

We left the hotel on schedule and dropped by the local post office.  Hansena mailed a bunch of postcards and was a bit worried because she said that she had to lick all of the stamps.  Maybe not a good idea in Cambodia.  Oh well--we'll see if that gets her.

We next stopped at a "hardware store" and I bought two shovels for a total of $7.  These were medium-sized spades with handle grips that I thought would help us at the site since we didn't have very good shovels last week.

The drive to the new worksite was a little longer and we turned north off of the main road instead of south. Once onto the dirt road, we went about a half-mile into the countryside where we found the homes to be more spread out with rice paddies/fields separating all of them.  It was really beautiful and we liked the area immediately.

We got out of the car and walked across a palm tree log bridge that spanned a small pond and then shortly arrived at the first work site (photos here).  We dropped Team 2 there and they rejoined their team leader from last week who was already started digging the square trench for the foundation.  Team 1 walked about another 100m across a couple of rice fields to the second site that was next to a rather larger house with accompanying palm frond roof barn for the animals. The land around the house was much more spacious and open and we were shaded by coconut palms.



Jay was there and he and Mr Song had already dug the foundation and were pouring concrete over the granite boulders that they'd placed with sand in the foundation trenches.  We immediately started placing the first layer of bricks onto the foundation concrete following the guide lines and also started digging the septic pit.

Once again, we struck water before we made it much deeper than a meter, but that was proceeded by a lot of work cutting through palm roots to get to the base clay.  Winston was schooled by one of the ladies of the house (age 49) on the proper use of a hoe to dig a hole.  She was amazingly strong and effective and we were all humbled.  She MAY have weighed 110 lbs, but I doubt it.  Winston had another digging helper, too, whom we presumed was the man of the house, but that's still TBD since they speak no English and we speak very few Khmer words.  Once they got through the roots, the work went very fast, though, and by lunch time it was clear that we would have the concrete cylinders in place later in the day.

As we laid the bricks, mixed the concrete, and really got into a groove, we noticed that almost everyone around us was supporting the effort.  Little kids were delivering bricks and shoveling mortar into our buckets. The sisters that live in the house were helping dig holes, delivering fresh coconuts for refreshment, and doing as much as possible.  At our last site, I have to admit, it was frustrating to see the number of idle people doing nothing--at least at our latrine site, though Team 2 had a little more support on their side of the road.  Today, it was our team with the support and our work showed for it.

There was a lot going on at the farm, too.  Seven-day-old puppies were yipping in the wood and palm leaf cooking shed next to us and a couple of them tried to crawl out from underneath.  Chickens were constantly running around us and the kids were everywhere.  Still, despite the distractions, we were moving at a great pace and had more than seven rows of bricks laid with the door mounted and sand and rocks inside the latrine before lunch. (Photos here)



We drove to The Vines again for lunch and had their amazing Cambodian salad with peanuts again, along with a squash and chicken soup.  We decided to cut lunch short and get back to work earlier than usual since the weather was so good and we were being so productive.  We called Annie to check on her and she reported feeling quite a bit better, but we decided to let her rest through the afternoon and prep for work tomorrow if she continued to improve.
We were back from lunch before 1330 and spent the afternoon placing the cylinders and working hard on the bricks.  The ladies brought us rambutan fruit (like red, really spiny lichee nuts) and bananas (later) as well as sweet, iced Vietnamese-style coffee.  The weather continued to be nice, so we mixed batch after batch of concrete on the hard ground near the front of the house and the kids kept us going.  We had four bricklayers for most of the afternoon, except for mixing breaks and when we put the cylinders in.  By the time the afternoon was complete--and we worked until 1700--we had at least 18 rows of brick laid (over 6' high), the cylinders placed, and Jay was installing the concrete vent pieces.  (Photos here)


Vy came over and helped me chat with the family while I was laying the last couple of rows of bricks.  They explained that three sisters (ages from the late 40s to early 50s) lived there and in neighboring houses with all of their kids, Grandma lived next door butslept i nthe big house at night to protect her from "ghosts," and that the small baby was five months old.  I explained the composition of our group and our purpose and made it clear that we were in the US Air Force.  They were very happy to have us and kept thanking me over and over again.  I tried to convey how much we enjoyed the work and appreciated their support as we worked and their participation in the process.

We left at about 1700 knowing that both groups had had a great day.  We were happy to be more in the country and around the rice fields and really like the families that we were helping.  Of course, I spent most of my break times taking photos of people and our work, so you can see those photos here.


When we returned to the hotel, Luke suggested an early dinner, meeting at 1800 to walk over to a French Bistro named "Brise de Kep."  Everyone showered and cleaned up quickly and Annie joined us, too, feeling much better and ready to work tomorrow.  We walked over and generally enjoyed the meal.  I ordered a tuna steak for $4 and it was overcooked, but Dylan had Magret de Canard and it was good, while Hansena had a good barracuda filet and Annie ate their version of a fried chicken breast.  To pass the time, we played cards (the France Family's official card game that we call SOYN).  It was a good time and it kept us busy and not complaining about the service all of the way through dessert--which was the best part of the meal.

We're looking forward to tomorrow and will finish the bricklaying in the morning and hopefully get most of all of the stucco done tomorrow afternoon.  We're feeling good about finishing on Thursday now.
Here's the slide show of all of the photos taken today:

All the Best,

Marty France
USAFA Faculty Chaperone & DWC Volunteer
Kep, Cambodia: July 2014