Cambodia - Developing World Connections

Cambodia December 2009: Thoughts one month later.

2010-01-25T11:49:00.000-08:00

It has been a month since most members of our team returned from our Developing World Connections (DWC) /Bridges Across Borders Southeast Asia trip to Cambodia. Jud and Jen both remained behind for extended travel in Southeast Asia – Jen going to Laos and Sri Lanka and Jud to Thailand and Myanmar. They seem to be in no hurry to come back to winter in North America.

It’s interesting that our collectively loquacious group appears to be encountering some difficulty expressing the magnitude of their Cambodia experience. Pictures, of course, speak volumes, and we keep in touch by email as busy schedules permit. We also plan to have a reunion party at Julie’s house in Santa Ynez, California, at the end of the month. Sadly, our Canadian comrades won’t be able to join us, but we hope they will be there in spirit and visit with us online by Skype. A few of us are already talking about participating in another DWC project, possibly in Peru at the end of this year or in early 2011. And we are all wondering what we can do to help relieve the massive human suffering in Haiti in some small way since we can’t immediately jump on a plane and start rebuilding.

Reflecting on the Cambodia trip, Susanne, from Santa Barbara, says one thing she has noticed is that she “didn't really appreciate what we went through” until she got home and could process it more clearly:

“While I was there everything was interesting, new and fun, but overwhelming as a whole with so much going on. Once I got home and began telling my story, I realized what a great experience it was helping other people who needed it. It's amazing that in just a few short days we were able to help build a home for a family! I keep picturing their faces, and wonder how they are doing right now in their new place. Everyone at home keeps saying they're proud of me, but it is really ME who is proud to have been a part of something like this.”

Heather reports from her home in Canada:

“My memory is full of visuals and my heart remembers the kindness and spirit of the people above anything else. Working so closely in the community and seeing the house built from start to finish are my most treasured thoughts. The sense of accomplishment that came from tying on that last stick to hold down the thatch was so fulfilling that I will be able to channel it in the future to help me to reach new goals. I am grateful to Cambodia, for being so beautiful in so many ways. I am grateful to DWC and to BABSEA for the programs that fostered the trip and brought together our terrific crew. No matter if we worked our hardest, or connected with the kids, I am confident that our team left a positive mark on the village and that we will be remembered for it. The trip has helped to recharge me and to find a bit of clarity on my life's direction. But the thing that keeps coming up is...where to next?!

I love Cambodia!”

Finally, from Karen, of Santa Barbara, your blog author:

A friend of mine who donated a silent auction item at one of our fund-raising events asked about my trip. I sent her some pictures and told her how I felt momentarily overcome by bittersweet emotions when it came time to leave the home we had built. The house-warning party was winding down, the sun was setting behind the distant hills, and the nearby rice fields reflected the twilight glow. I felt elation to be part of this adventure – I had helped create a home for a family in need. I also felt genuine sadness, knowing it was unlikely we would ever return to this place to see how the family has adjusted. So much had happened to change my world view in such a short time!

‘I feel really lousy complaining about the color of my brown kitchen cabinets,’ my friend said, nicely summing it up.

Later, coming home to the pre-Christmas hullabaloo made me even more poignantly aware of the enduring spirit of the Khmer people. Yes, the cities in Cambodia are chaotic. Yes, there is litter and pollution, and many roads and buildings are in disrepair. Yes, there are daily deprivations and stressors. Yes, many people there work very hard every single day and have few possessions to show for it. Yes, the Khmer people have been traumatized by years of conflict and the loss of loved ones in the genocide, and yes, there is a long way to go before there is a sound governmental infrastructure and true reconciliation can be achieved. However, one can see progress taking place everywhere as communities rebuild. And from my perspective, the rural people there seem to exude a kind of inner serenity and oneness with nature that we don’t typically enjoy here in the West.

I wonder, what do these Khmer people really think of us? Do they think we are just nuts for taking vacation time and spending our money to fly half way around the world to build houses, plant gardens, and install latrines? Our DWC and BABSEA contacts tell us the impact is tremendous, and we accept that. But because of the language barrier, we were never really able to get to the bottom of it with the families who directly benefited from our work. However, by all appearances, whatever they think of us, they certainly seem to truly appreciate the results. And we appreciate them, more than they will ever know.

Karen O'Hara
DWC Volunteer Participant
Cambodia December 2009

December 17, 2009: Our final day.

2009-12-21T08:44:00.000-08:00

Our final day of work: This morning we returned to the homes where we are building septic systems. The toilet has been installed at the first house and the latrine is nearly ready to use. It has two water storage tanks built of brick, one for “flushing” and one for “showers” (by water scoop). By the time the team left for lunch, plastering was under way and the roof had to be installed.. At the second house, work was completed on the exterior wall, and at the third house, Tommy, Denver and Karen went back to square one, helping to dig a hole for the septic system. Karen also was invited to help the mom separate twigs and other small inedible bits from rice spread on a bamboo mat.
Because there was limited space and work to be done, two separate groups were able to check out Chamcar Bei village and visit with the shopkeepers. Tommy’s group talked to the owner of the motorcycle shop, who is university educated and speaks excellent English. He has been operating his shop in Chamcar Bei for two years. Heather bought a karaoke CD. The cover looks like a soap opera picture. Most of the karaoke songs here seem to be about heartbreak (some human conditions are universal). A number of us, including Heather, Karen, Adele, Tommy, Gabby, and Kayla took off their shoes (as a sign of respect) and gave cash offerings to two passing monks, who gave each of us a blessing. Tommy says the monks wished us safe travels and blessed our worthy deeds. We were humbled by the experience.
Jud, Brian, Bob, Cesar and Jen also visited town and were invited to play volleyball with some local teenagers. On the bus ride home each evening, we have noticed many young men playing volleyball in their yards. It was the first, but by no means the last, game of the day.
Susanne, who is a professional chef, stayed behind at The Vine this morning to help prepare our lunch. By request, she cooked brown, rather than white, rice. If you are going to visit Southeast Asia, it’s important to like rice. We also had a delicious green salad with Dijon dressing and chicken soup. It was a treat for Susanne to get back in a large kitchen.
We had a relaxing lunch, knowing that our afternoon would be spent buying crafts made by local women as part of the BABSEA community restoration project and playing with children at the school. At lunch, Celeste and Heather played Backgammon. Jen and Brian played Cranium, and most of the others did yoga with Julie, who runs a yoga studio back home.
After lunch, we visited the community center where women make jewelry and Christmas ornaments of coconut shells, straw baskets, and woven cloth goods such as purses, scarves and table runners. Proceeds go toward women’s economic ventures. Because of the hard times in this area, most of the women were not able to get an education; this project is designed to help them be self-sufficient and learn about operating a business. It was a good time to buy gifts and souvenirs while making a contribution (the Chamcar Bei version of an economic stimulus package). It seems odd to think that friends and family at home are doing their holiday shopping and attending seasonal social functions while we are in rural Cambodia building latrines.
Our next stop was the community garden where we planted seeds and seedlings last week and earlier this week. The seeds are just starting to sprout, which is satisfying to see after heavy digging and planting in the hot sun. The community garden is another Developing World Connections/ BABSEA-supported economic venture.
Our next stop was the school, where we were greeted by an enthusiastic class of kindergarteners. They are a very lively bunch! We played games with them and the hula hoops we brought from Phnom Penh were a particular hit. Julie is an expert hula-hooper and everyone was impressed with her tricks. Jud, Brian and Vy played a competitive game of basketball with some older children (about 11 or 12 years old) and their teacher (who was wearing a long skirt) until a snake crawled onto the hard dirt court. The children threw stones at the snake, but the game broke up anyway. By that time, a soccer match had started at the back of the school – BABSEA volunteers versus our group. Gabby, who plays soccer at home, was a standout, but the BABSEA team still beat our volunteer team, even though some of them were barefoot. We learned later that they play nearly every day after work. It was a hot, dusty, action-packed game. Adele, Cesar, Tommy, Kasper, Denver, Jen, Heather, Brian and Jud rounded out the team. The rest of us cheered them on.
After saying our goodbyes at the school, we stopped at the reservoir, where a number of went for a swim to cool off. Gabby was the first to jump in. Tommy, who used to teach gymnastics, did a handstand on the railing before plunging in. A lot of the local kids were there, too, since it’s a favorite watering hole.
The day wrapped up with a celebration dinner at the Kep Lodge restaurant. We were touched when Mr. Tiery and Vy thanked us for our contributions during the past two weeks. We would all love to work with them again. After dinner, each of us received an honorary award in keeping with our unique personality traits. It’s amazing how much you can learn about people in such a short time. The evening wrapped up with some dancing. Tomorrow, most of us will head back to Phnom Penh, then on to Siem Reap to see the temples. Jackie, Michele and Jud plan to stay on the coast for awhile longer. Jud will be continuing on to Thailand and possibly Myanmar.
We have formed a bond and it has been an amazing time for all of us.

December 16, 2009: Saying Good Bye Soon

2009-12-17T08:38:00.000-08:00

Today a few more members of our group succumbed to traveler’s ailments. The rest of us headed out to install septic systems. Once the holes are dug, it’s actually quite satisfying work. We all enjoy the meditative aspects of bricklaying. The downside is that there are only three trowels per site, and some of them are being used by Cambodian expert masons, so we have to take turns. For those of you who are from California, you will understand when we say it’s something akin to watching CalTrans workers on the freeway, or a joke that starts with the line, “How many volunteers does it take to build an outhouse?”
We tried to be productive by setting an example and picking up trash around the yard.
Jackie ran into a challenge when she needed to cut some bricks in half to fit an imperfect space. Seeing her attempt to break brick with an axe without cracking them into awkward shapes, a little girl in the family came along, took the axe from her and made a perfect cut.
Brian mobilized a group of children to help carry bricks. His teammates report that he also slipped while working and put his hand right into a cow patty.
At one of the houses, there is a goat pen containing goats of all sizes and colors. There is nothing like the smell of goats in the morning! In the afternoon, the children take the goats out of the pen and herd them into the countryside to feed and stretch their legs. It’s fun to watch them trotting along. The other house has a very large and in charge pig rooting around. At a third house where we are to start work tomorrow there are two doe-faced cows tied up at the side of the house and an adorable speckled piglet running around.
Our hosts served us jack fruit and bananas and a third fruit the size of a kiwi but with a large seed and gooey white stuff inside (not all that popular). Jack fruit looks like a big honeydew melon with spikes on the skin. Inside it has compartments of fruit around a seed. It tastes a little like pineapple but has a rubbery texture. The bananas here are smaller than the ones we have at home and are a lot more flavorful. The bananas have seeds in them that are about the size of a pine nut.
We returned a bit earlier than usual to the hotel; most of us took a swim before heading out to dinner. Tomorrow is our last work day, so we are feeling a bit let down, knowing that members of our group will be going their separate ways and we will have to say goodbye soon.

December 15, 2009: The Completion of the Very Tall House

2009-12-16T08:46:00.000-08:00

This was a very eventful, educational and rewarding day for us.
In the morning, Team 1 enclosed a wall-less schoolroom with woven bamboo mats. Team 2 returned to the very tall house determined to finish their work there. There really was no other option; the wheels were already in motion for a housewarming party this evening.
It seemed as if Team 2 saved the hardest part for last. After completing all the thatching, they learned that long sticks had to be applied horizontally to the outside of the house to keep the thatch from blowing up in the wind and rain. This required working in tandem, with one partner pushing wire from inside the house to the outside of the house and the other partner grabbing the wire, wrapping it around a stick and pushing it back through to be tied off. This task took some of the morning and all afternoon to complete. In fact, the last wire was tied off just after Team 1 arrived for the party at 4:30 p.m.
At lunch, we learned from Sarah that Bridges Across Borders Southeast Asia plans to sponsor a week-long village clean-up on the main street of Chamber Bei village next week. The village features a collection of dusty, open-air shops, including a butcher shop where the meat sits out in the sun all day, a general store, a fruit stand, and a motorcycle repair shop. BABSEA wants to encourage the shop owners to spruce up in order to attract more business.
After lunch, a few members of Team 2 joined Team 1 to start building a septic system at the home of a family participating in BABSEA’s community restoration project. Unlike the two houses, this time we had a schematic drawing to follow. Ravi, who is in charge of health and sanitation for BABSEA in Chamcar Bei village, explained that about 100 families live in the immediate area and only 15 of them have latrines on their property. It costs about $170 to acquire materials for a septic system, plus labor, which is a prohibitive amount of money for the vast majority of families. Without a latrine, people have to relieve themselves outdoors. During the rainy season fecal material can spread into inhabited areas and spread dysentery and other diseases.
Ravi noted that one reason Chamber Bei is so poor is because fighting continued there much longer than it did in other parts of the country, making it difficult for aid to reach its inhabitants.
At the house where we are installing the septic system, the family has volunteered to help educate their neighbors about sound sanitation practices. Although they live in relatively poor conditions, they also have a water filtration system that removes more than 90 percent of disease-causing bacteria.
The septic system requires the installation of three to four concrete cylinders, laid on top of each other in hand-dug holes more than four-feet deep. Holes are drilled in the concrete and pipes are inserted through the holes and attached to the privy. The walls of the latrine are made of brick. The door is pre-fab, like something you might find at Home Depot. The roof is made of corrugated metal. It’s sensational.
We plan to install a second septic system at another home tomorrow. It takes a couple of days to complete the project; we plan to have both finished on Thursday.
The day ended with our housewarming celebration at the very tall house. Mr. Tiery entwined flowering vines that were hung across the threshold and each person who worked on the house, including the parents, children, grandma and all Team 2 members, each cut one strand of the vine with scissors. Then the family welcomed us into their new home. They served rice wine (which has a real kick!) and duck stew with morning glory. We brought an assortment of snacks and beverages. Many of the local men lounged on the big table that we helped construct. Many more children seemed to appear from nowhere to enjoy the treats.
The family made a point of thanking each one of us individually. Seeing their appreciative faces was so gratifying; we just wish we could have expressed how much we all got out of the experience. We left at sunset with bittersweet emotions, knowing we would not be returning again to the very tall house.

December 14, 2009: The Humidity Creates Challenges

2009-12-15T10:44:00.000-08:00

Chamroen and Rodelle went back to Siem Reap Sunday, so now our party is down to 18 people. Chambroen will be taking an English exam today and we all wish him well.
After a very relaxing weekend, we faced work Monday with a little less enthusiasm than usual. There was a thunderstorm during the night and the lightening was so bright it lit up the entire bay. In the morning we noticed how the intense humidity quickly sapped our energy. Team 2 set out to try to finish the tall house, while Team 1 worked in the community garden weeding, hoeing and planting.
As Team 2 approached the house, they could hear strange, discordant music floating in the air. There was a funeral taking place at the house closest to the one we are building, less than a quarter mile away. The music and funeral keening went on all morning. Even if we were able to finish the house on Monday, we felt it would be inappropriate to hold a housewarming party on the same day as the funeral. We expected to see signs of the body burning, but none of us noticed any smoke, so we are not sure exactly what transpired.
Team 2 worked hard all day on their house but was able to finish by the end of the day; we attribute the difficulty with finishing to the considerable size of this particular family’s Dream. The Crosby, Stills and Nash lyrics, “Our house is a very, very, very fine house," keeps running through our minds. We are now adding horizontal sticks to the sides to hold down the thatch. That requires climbing to the top of ladders and scaffold and sticking wires through the thatch. We also built a lattice as a decorative touch and hauled in dirt for the porch. The family is already sleeping in the unfinished house.
Team 1 cultivated a four-row planting plot with the big hoes in the morning. The woman who owns the plot is 35 and has five children; she and her husband already have a house, but have no way to earn a living, so their Family Dream is the garden plot. The woman was so at home working barefoot in the garden. It was as if she grew out of the Earth herself. The main job was to remove the weeds from the four beds and reshape them into two 2 large, wide beds.
The rain from the previous night ratcheted up the humidity, so it felt appreciably hotter working in the full sun. The infrequent breezes caused joyful expressions of relief. The work was not complicated, but it was challenging physically, especially because of the heat. After lunch, there were two more garden beds to reshape and then plant with spinach seeds.
Our Fearless Leader, Tommy Marx, was ill today and had to spend the afternoon sleeping at The Vine. We are so used to him being such a bundle of energy, it was especially hard to see him suffer. He was really down for the count with stomach cramps for awhile there. Although he seemed much better by the time we picked him up at the end of the day, he was not back to 100 percent.

December 11, 2009: Dream Home #1 Done!

2009-12-15T10:16:00.000-08:00

All 20 of us were able to work today.

Team 1 finished the house at Site 1 this afternoon. There was quite a celebration. Beer, sodas and snacks were served. We gave toothbrushes to the children and Vy explained how to use them. Some of the men had a lively game of hacky sack.
The new homeowners performed an impromptu ribbon-cutting ceremony orchestrated by our teammate, Chamroen. The hostess welcomed everyone into her home with the prayer-hand gesture and greeting used here and we each returned the courtesy before stepping over the threshold. Prayer hands under at the chin and a slight bow are a sign of respect and used as a substitute for a handshake.
Members of Team 1 report experiencing mixed emotions upon completing the house - happiness for the family who will live there and sadness that their job was done and they would be moving on to another project They all felt a strong sense of satisfaction that their efforts vastly improved living conditions for the family.
Meanwhile, at Site 2, work continued on the tall house. The roof was finished and corrugated metal sides were hammered on, so it looks quite a bit more substantial than it did a day ago. The back side of the house is thatch, which will have to be applied when we return on Monday. Gaps under the eaves above the corrugated iron also need to be filed in. Some of us would like to paint the metal, which apparently is recycled, but there is no money in the budget for paint. We also have to finish hauling dirt for the floor. It looks as if Party No. 2 will have to wait until Tuesday.
The weekend is coming up, and there is a lot of discussion about leisure activities in the area. Most of us plan to take the half-hour boat ride to Rabbit Island and some people plan to spend Saturday night there in rustic huts that dot the shoreline. Jud and Bob plan to visit Sihanookville with Cheryl, an Australian woman staying at our hotel, and Tommy is taking a small group to Kampot to get supplies. We all look forward to our two days of R&R.

December 10, 2009:Thatching the roofs

2009-12-14T09:33:00.000-08:00

This is our second day of house-building. We are really starting to get the hang of it now. Framing at Site 1 was finished yesterday, but framing at Site 2 had to be completed this morning.

After framing, the roof is thatched. Then the walls and the floor are finished. For those readers who have never thatched a roof (which we presume is most of you), here is how it works: the layered straw is attached to a wooden rod about a yard long. Each piece has to overlap six inches to keep the rain out. The thatch has to be hoisted up onto the roof, where is it is hand-wired onto the cross beams. Aesthetically speaking, the appearance from below is quite pleasing. As one might imagine, a few of us had to get out of our comfort zones to climb the wooden frame walls and work on the rooftop (they say it’s best to face one’s fears). There is a great view of the countryside from up there.
One person has to stay on the ground to send up supplies by rope pulley, a forked stick or climb up and hand off to the thatcher. The supplier has to be able to respond quickly to requests such as “more wire,” “more thatch,” “camera,” “water,” and “shoes coming down.” Those who aren’t thatching have to tote dirt in wicker baskets for the floor, so as far as hard labor goes, thatching is preferred, even if one has a fear of heights.

We expect the Site 1 house to be finished tomorrow, but we will have to finish the Site 2 house on Monday. The Site 2 family’s Dream Home is a bit more ambitious than the Dream Home at Site 1.

Brian and Celeste, two of our Canadian teammates, have a unique perspective on both houses because they are filming at each site. Their objective is a time-lapse effect to show the houses progressing through various stages of construction from start to finish. The film will be used by Developing World Connections as part of an application for a $1 million media outreach project. Today Brian and Celeste hiked between the two building sites at least eight times, and they have helped out at each site, too, after setting up their equipment. They are really feeling the effects of the intense heat here and we really appreciate their efforts.

While we are building, we ponder the many cultural contrasts that are a source of fascination to us. Here are just a few examples:

• We are sitting on the roof of our house wiring thatch and the cell phone rings in our supervisor’s pocket.
• In this country where Buddhist shrines dot the landscape, there are Christmas trees at some of the hotels.
• There are no coins in circulation and the U.S. dollar is the currency of choice.
Change is made using riel on paper – it’s about 4,000 riel to $1 U.S.
• Our bus driver is on 24-hour call and sleeps in a hammock in the bus.
• People actually wave, smile and shout hello when we walk past.
• In the countryside, laundry is hung out to dry on fences lining the street, and rice is dried on tarps on the ground.
• Gas for motorcycles is dispensed out of Pepsi bottles.
It common to see three or four people on a small moto, including little children who sit wedged between the adults.
• While the people for whom we are building houses have very few creature comforts, they have friends and family close by watching out for them. The older ones take care of the younger ones, and vice versa.
• And, have you ever heard of Cambodian gelato? Well, it exists.

December 8, 2009: Planting the Seeds: The Family Dream Project

2009-12-09T08:55:00.000-08:00

December 8, 2009

Our group of 18 volunteers from Santa Barbara County, California, and Vancouver and Kamloops, Canada, arrived in Kep, Cambodia, December 7 after a jostling four-hour bus ride from Phnom Penh. Our group also includes one Cambodian participant, Chamroeum, from Siem Riep, and Kasper from Denmark. We are an eclectic group ranging in age from 14 to 70. This morning we were anxious to get our project started and gathered early in the lobby of our guest house before boarding the bus. Our first stop was a school in the village of Chamcar Bei, where we had an orientation session led by Sarah Dobbe, Chamcar Bei program manager. Sarah is from Holland and speaks six languages.

During the orientation, we learned that Developing World Connections (DWC) and Bridges Across Borders SOuth East Asia (BABSEA) first established a presence in Chamcar Bei in 2007 after doing a community needs assessment in 2006. There are about 800 families in the village and nearly 300 school enrollees. When the project started, there were approximately 580 families, so school enrollment also has swelled along with the need for assistance.

This part of southern Cambodia on the Gulf of Thailand is infamous as a Khmer Rouge stronghold. Fighting finally ceased here in 1993 when the government promised land in exchange for a truce. While the region is now peaceful, the people here are still recovering from the trauma of the war years, making them prime candidates for the four pillars of Bridges Across Borders Southeast Asia: education, health, livelihood and sustainability. While all the pillars are important, the most critical is sustainability, because the DWC/BABSEA project has a time limit of five years. Sarah told us the objective is to provide guidance and assistance, not encourage dependence.

After our orientation session, we split into teams and went through a “problem tree” exercise to learn more about the root causes of poverty and lack of education. The exercise helped us realize how inter-related and complex these problems are. While it was a bit overwhelming, we were advised that we can all make a difference, one project at a time. Following the Team exercise, we learned a few useful words and phrases in Khmer under the watchful eye of teacher Meas Theary.

The Family Dream project we are working on involves 26 poor families who are selected on the basis of established criteria. We start building two Dream Homes tomorrow –we are really excited to be able to create homes designed by the families who will be occupying them! An added dimension to our project is that is it being filmed as a promotional piece for DWC.

Today, after orientation and lunch, we planted two plots in the Chamcar Bei community garden. One group dug holes, filled them with manure, and planted eggplant seedlings. This brought a great deal of satisfaction to team members Bob, Jackie, Heather, Karen, Denver, Kasper, Michele, Rodelle and Jen because they got to work alongside the farmer who will be tending the crop. The farmer has six children and is a Family Dream participant. We were told that he can make more money selling the crop than working as a laborer and that our assistance enabled his children to remain in school for the day.

The other team, comprised of our Team Leader, Tommy Marx, and Participants Jud, Adele, Kayla, Julie, Gabby, Susanne, Brian, Celeste, Caesar and Chamroeum, planted radishes intended for sales to help sustain the entire community, including poor families who cannot afford to own their own land. These teammates are hoping the seeds with start to sprout before we leave for home December 18. We will be back at the garden next week to do some more planting and we plan to check on the progress then.

We are all in awe of the grace of the Cambodian people and the beauty of the landscape and look forward to continuing our work here.

Team Cambodia
December 2009

Group to Go to Cambodia in December 2009

2009-12-09T08:53:00.000-08:00

The one of the last DWC Teams of 2009 will head out to Cambodia on December 5th. Following on the work done by the Men's Group in November they will continue to build Dream Homes for Cambodian families in the area of Kep.

Thank you, Good-bye and Thank you.

2009-06-15T08:59:00.000-07:00

Another week has come and gone and I find myself sad to be writing this blog. We just finished our last week in the village and although I am looking forward to some of the comforts of home, I wasn’t quite ready to say goodbye to some of the friends I have made.

We returned from Kep Province on Monday morning and headed out to our third Dream Home to start building. The family is a family of five, a mother, her two sons and two daughters. Her husband passed away due to illness and their house was old and made of mud and it had fallen down. When we arrived it looked as if they were sleeping in their yard. It is heartwrenching to see, but so good to know that we can help to make it better for them. We spent our first day there mixing and pouring cement to secure the frame. Once we had the frame secure we began to attach sheet metal to all of the walls and thatching to the peaks of the walls. It’s awesome that we were able to complete so much in the three weeks that we were working in the village

On Thursday afternoon and Friday morning we were back to work at the Community Vocational Training Centre. We spread around two truckloads of dirt to help fix some of the road and low spots that collect water. It was hard work and the heat had finally kicked in. I think it was actually the first time I saw Mr. Theary break a sweat!

Throughout the week the group took turns riding into the village in the evenings to visit the youth group. It was nice to be able to sit down with them, show them pictures of our families and be able to help them practice their English. They are all so eager to learn! Mom, I hate to break this to you over the Internet, but after seeing one of my pictures of you they all agreed that you were “lop lop”… and they then understood where I got it from!

Our bike rides back home after youth group were always an adventure. We usually tried to leave early enough to ensure we were riding in daylight but apparently our timing isn’t always as great as we would like to think! On one such trip I had a scorpion run out in front of my bike and for the longest time I just couldn’t put my finger on what that gecko on the road was carrying… until I got closer and realized what it was! I know, a major DUH! on my part!

Friday proved to be the hardest day emotionally on this journey so far. It was time to say goodbye. In the afternoon we visited the first house that we completed. It was phenomenal to go back and see the house that we had built for them turned into a home. It brings tears to my eyes to remember their gratitude for us. The whole team had gone through our luggage and picked out some clothes and items that we would no longer need to give to the families. There was clothes, hammocks, sandals, towels, etc. It feels good to know that the smallest of sacrifices of us giving up a few shirts or pairs of shorts (or in my case all but one because apparently I can’t count!) means so much to them. I know that I will take that feeling with me wherever I go. Once we were finished at the first house we headed out to the third house to pay them a visit. We left items for them as well. I cannot imagine the hardships that the mother is going to have to face in the future, raising four young children alone, but it brings a smile to my face to know that we had a part (no matter how small) in making it easier for her. Putting a roof over her children’s heads I feel is the least that we could do to help her. Sometimes you wish that you could do so much more, but I know that by doing what we have done we have helped her to be able to focus on her kids now, and not on where they will find shelter from a storm.

After dinner on Friday (our last with Pha) we headed into the village for a party that the BAB staff were throwing for us. There were speeches of goodbyes, thanks, and good times shared by all. The mothers from the three homes we built were there as well, it was good to see them all together and heartwarming to hear their thanks. Mr. Theary made sure that we all knew that we were welcome to come back at any time and that he would always find hard work for us! Some of the youth group thanked us for our help with their English and just for being there to visit with them. Sarah, the local program director with BAB, mentioned that when we first arrived in the village they had originally planned for us to complete two houses in our three week stay with them. I am proud to announce that we completed three houses, repaired a playground, picked (and twisted!) a field of yams, re-distributed two truckloads of dirt, dismantled a chicken coop, and dug countless holes. I am so proud of the team to know that our hard work has paid off so much for the village.

Each member of the team got up to say our favorite parts of our time in the village, what we will remember most and thank certain people that made our stay easier. Every single one of us was blown away by the village of Chamcar Bei. I know that coming here everyone always tells you that Cambodians are some of the friendliest in the world and I can now say from a first hand experience that they are. I’ve traveled to quite a few different countries and I have never experienced the welcome, or made friendships so fast as I did in Chamcar Bei. The village truly has a lot to be proud of. After the speeches, feast of fruit and the team (most for the first time) experiencing rice wine mixed with coke, it was time to dance! While I designated myself photographer for the evening, the rest of the team was taught traditional Khmer dances by the youth group and BAB staff. The hardest part of the night came when it was time to say goodbye. Both Theary and Cham Nan moved me to tears as they gave me hugs goodbye, said they would miss me and told me to come back and visit.

I’d like to take this opportunity to acknowledge some of the people that helped to make not only mine, but the entire team’s stay here so amazing. First off, Pha, our housekeeper and cook. What an amazing, beautiful woman she is. She always has a smile on her face, will do anything she possibly can to help you and is above all an amazing cook!

Mr. Theary, the Volunteer Assistant with BAB. Mr. Theary was always the first person to laugh when we were having a tough time, let us have a tough time for a little bit longer, then teach us the easy way to do it. In his words, “I want you to use your personal skills first, then learn from me.” I would love to think that he learned as much from us as I know I did from him. My Khmer would not be nearly as good (okay, not really good, but better than it was) if it weren’t for him. He was patient, kind and always provided a laugh!

Cham Nan, the Dream Home Coordinator with BAB. Although Cham Nan’s English is limited he more than made up for it in hand gestures, demonstrations and a want to help us. As I know I have mentioned before, his smile could light up a job-site and he was always there to help us when a piece of wood was just too hard to nail through, or a nail just a bit out of our reach. I have no doubt that it is largely due to his guidance and patience that we were able to finish three houses in our time here.

Peou, BAB staff, my personal saviour. Had it not been for Peou both times my peddle fell off I would have been stuck trying so hard in my broken Khmer to get my bike fixed. Without him I probably would have ended up with two left peddles!

And to the countless other residents of Chamcar Bei who came to everyone’s assistance any time something went wrong. I have no doubt in my mind that we will all be taking back great memories of the people and the village.

Driving away from the village on Saturday morning I was filled with mixed emotions. I was looking forward to a shower and a fan, but it felt like I was leaving my home. I have left a piece of my heart in Chamcar Bei, a piece that I am glad to give away because I know that what I did here is 100 times better than what I could have been doing at home in the same time. I will take this experience with me everywhere I go and I will never forget the friendships I have made, the people we have helped and the overall good feeling residing in me just knowing that maybe, I finally have made a difference. Afterall, that is the exact reason why I came here in the first place. It was not to see Angkor Wat, to visit the Killing Fields or to have a bit of a vacation (although they are definitely appreciated!). I came here to help those who wanted to, but could not necessarily help themselves, to give of my time and myself to help to better someone else’s life because everyone deserves a chance at a happy, peaceful life. I know that we are all blessed to live where we live and to have what we have and I know that I am so lucky to have gotten the chance to pass that on and maybe, just maybe, pass on a little bit of hope.

I want to end this blog by thanking all of those who helped to make this adventure possible not only for me, but for everyone on the team. I know that I could not have done it without the support of my family, friends, countless donors and the community. By helping me you have helped to better the lives of people you may not ever meet, but yet you found it in your heart to help anyway. This world is a better place because of you, please don’t ever forget it! In the words of William James, “Act as if what you do makes a difference. It does.”

And of course, thank you again to all those who commented last week, I love reading them! Very soon we will be able to discuss our experiences in person with all those back at home.

Our Second Week: Building, Biking, and Bonding

2009-06-08T15:12:00.000-07:00

Our second week in the village seemed to fly by. Pha continues to feed us great and take care of us all like we were her children. A few members of the team got a bit sick, but we all think that it’s due to the change in diet, surroundings, etc. but I guarantee they felt taken care of with Pha around! She has been a god send and one I know I will miss when I go back to my own house and having to cook for myself again.

On Monday morning we finished our second house that we were working on. It feels so great to accomplish so much and help people get into houses that are good for them. To correct the slight blunder I made in last week’s blog, the Bridges Across Borders staff member that works on the Family Dream Home Project who’s name I could not remember is Cham Nan. I will admit, I was a bit sad to know that he wouldn’t be working with us on the playground as his unwavering cheeriness and smile light up a job site.

In the afternoon we went to start work on rehabilitating a playground by the Community Vocational Training Center. One of the swing sets was struck by lightning so we had to dig it out and move it along with re-thatching the roof. As much as I hate to say this, moving a swing set that was cemented into the ground was quite the project for 7 girls and 1 guy! But, eventually one of the locals we were working with shook his head at us and put two long sticks under the swing set so it was easier for us to lift it out of the hole and move it into the new ones. I am learning quite a bit about handy little ways to get things done without the use of machines and power tools!

Over the playground set there was a thatched roof that had collapsed so we had to take down the old thatch, fix the roof and re-thatch it. Carmen and Lauren got quite the show of creatures that live in thatching. I think they had colonies living in their hair after they were done with that job, but like troopers they did it with smiles on their faces! We tilled the land around the playground, which proved to be hard work with all the rain we were getting!

We finished the playground on Thursday morning and headed over to the school in the village to help pick a field of yams. I can proudly say that I am now a professional yam twister after my experience there! We also got the pleasure of trying boiled yams dipped in sugar after our work there. I’d never thought to eat yams that way but I think I may have a new treat when I get back to Canada!

On Thursday afternoon on our way into the village Sarah and I both had peddles fall off of our bikes. While hers got welded back on and didn’t cause her any more problems, the Silver Bullet (my bike) had other ideas for me. After getting help from one of the Bridges Across Borders staff in the village I left my bike at the shop to get fixed. I went back in the afternoon, all was well and the Silver Bullet and I took to the streets once again! Our glory was short lived as the next afternoon, on my way into the village it fell off again. Apparently the peddle just wasn’t the right fit. This time, however, I wasn’t quite as lucky and it fell off quite a ways out of the village. Once again I was pleasantly surprised when I had four different people stop to offer me a ride into the work site (everyone in the village seems to know where we are and what we are working on at all times), which unfortunately I had to turn down because I just couldn’t imagine trying to bring my bike and myself into town on the back of a Moto… truth be told, it scared me a little! When I was almost into town I ran into the same BAB staff member that helped me last time and he met me at the shop and they were ready for me and fixed it at no charge. I am constantly amazed at how accommodating the people in this country are, they’d do anything they can to help another, whether it be their best friend, or some stranger from a different country who not only looks funny, but talks funny too!

On Friday we went to help take apart an old chicken coop that they are planning on moving so they can use the space as a football (soccer) field. It mostly involved us taking down walls, moving them, and digging holes. Throughout this we came across a scorpion (which Lauren dispatched of), a few wood worms (that Savoun had the pleasure of showing us how bad they bite by putting a piece of wood in front of them), and I’d say about a million ants. All in a days work!

Aside from work there is always other important experiences we have that I love to share with you all. Remember Houdini from my first post? Well, apparently Houdini has quite a large family as Quinn and Kelsey have discovered. They went to go to bed one night (which I have to admit, I’m usually asleep by 8pm, I know, party animal!) and found two of them outside their door. We have all become warriors when it comes to facing our fears of spiders and I was woken up by yet another war cry, this time coming from Quinn!

While we were working on the playground it was nice to not have to bike ride every day, it was close enough to where we are living that we could walk there every day. We had about 3 days of heavy winds and rains, but we fought through it, lived soaked to the bone for a few days and got it done! The rain here is something else. And, as strange as it may sound, I’m going to miss it when I head back to Canada. The thunder and lightning have a way of calming me, I know, it’s strange, but it’s cool. And for the first time since we’ve been here we’ve actually woken up cold at night because the rain had cooled it off so much. It was a pleasant surprise to find myself reaching for a blanket!

On Friday after dinner we headed into the village to meet some of the students and teach a bit of English. It was a bit of a struggle for some of us, but once we got going it seemed to get easier. It’s amazing the insight you get from talking to children. Leland, the teacher of the class I was in, must have a great influence on the children he teaches as when we asked them what they wanted to be when they grew up and half of them said teachers. One girl said she wanted to become a doctor and come back to the village to help the people there. Another student a police woman, a lawyer, and a farmer. All was good while we were in the classes, it was on the way home when disaster struck…

Okay, don’t get all worried, it wasn’t really disaster, just a minor accident! First I have to explain the way back to our house. You have to bike across a bridge which they have been doing some work on, on one side is a pond, the other the water is coming out of pipes so while there is water there, it’s not much, mostly sand. On this side there is also no barricade. Earlier in the day the workers had a truckload of sand delivered so now not only was there the obstacles of rocks, now there was a large dirt pile in the middle of the bridge that you have no option but to go over it. We were all heading over it, with trepidation, and The Pearl (Michelle’s bike) somehow lost her footing and went over the edge. Don’t worry! Michelle ended up sitting on the bridge, with some scratches and needless to say a bit shaken up, but all was well. Adrian had a good laugh at us girls as it became like a medical tv show. I started to clean the scrapes on her hands, Quinn took her knee, Kelsey was somewhat of a scrub nurse handing us the supplies we needed, Carmen held the lights steady while Lauren occupied Michelle with story time. All the while, Adrian, being the good cook he is, went into the kitchen and brewed her a pot of tea. For Michelle’s parents, DON’T WORRY! She is doing great, her scrapes are healing and she still has her unshakable calm about her. While we were looking after her injuries I kept on trying to get her to scream, to let it out, but all she did was laugh at me! I have to admit, I think it may have been one of the best team bonding experiences we’ve had. And I know that it was good for us to practice the first aid training we all have, to know that we could put it to use. So, thank you Michelle, for becoming our patient! The Pearl seemed to have come out of it on top as well as there was only some damage to the basket and the rest of her was good!

For the weekend we are staying in Kep and while some of the team took a boat ride over to Rabbit Island, myself and a few others decided to hang back, enjoy the fans blowing in our faces and relax a bit. I think I get enough sun in the village!

On Monday we are heading to help with yet another house. It’s so good to know that we are getting so much accomplished! Two houses, a playground, and a field of yams, so far with hopefully another house complete by the time we leave at the end of next week. The time has flown by and we are all sad to see the end of this trip coming up so soon. We will bring home with us many memories of the friends we’ve made, both within our team and with the Cambodian people, our experiences here and the amazing time we’ve had. There truly is nothing else quite like travelling with a purpose, which I feel I have accomplished here. I know that this something I will take with me wherever this life takes me.

Thank you for your comments on last weeks blog, it’s good to know that someone out there is reading! Expect another one at the end of next week.

Until then, keep your chins up, I know some of you are dealing with snow, but consider this, you have running water, electricity 24/7 and toilets that flush! Life is good!

Joelle,
Developing World Connections Volunteer Participant 2009

June 1: Our Lives in Cambodia.

2009-06-01T10:08:00.000-07:00

Cambodia is amazing. It is such a beautiful country. The first week or so that we were here we took some time to explore Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville. In Phnom Penh we got to see the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum (which was right across the street from where we were staying), visited the Killing Fields just outside of Phnom Penh and got to tour the Royal Palace and Museum. It is amazing and heart-wrenching to see the horror that went on here only 30 years ago. But I think the most amazing thing is how much Cambodians have bounced back. How after a history of such repression and violence they are some of the happiest and most accommodating people I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. Everywhere you go you are greeted with a smile. I truly am blown away. The history is there, but this is not a sad place, it is a place of hope.

After we left Phnom Penh we drove out to Sihanoukville for the weekend before heading out to Chamcar Bei to start work. Somehow we all managed to walk out of if with sunburns (no matter how much sunscreen some people used), but were happy to have a day to relax and get to talk to the local children. Of course they were trying to sell you their bracelets, fruit, and lobsters on the beach, but they were entertaining nonetheless.

When we were driving into the village the one thing that came to my mind was "perfect". Here is a place where life is simple, and quiet. It is absolutely beautiful. Our cook in the Red House where we are staying, Pha, is amazing. Her meals have been wonderful and we are learning as much from her as I would like to think she is from us.

Our first few nights in the Red House proved to be a test to our tolerance of creatures we don't usually deal with in Canada. Traveling in a group of seven girls and one guy has got to be tough for Adrian. The poor guy gets called upon anytime there is something that might give us the creeps, but he has been a trooper through it all. Lauren conquered a spider we had named Houdini (he kept on disappearing on us). She let out a very primitive sounding war cry before killing it, and I have to say, I am so glad to be traveling with that girl!

We bike ride to all of our job sites in the village. We love the work and luckily for us we can all find humor in some of the things that happen. So far, Lauren, Michelle and I have all suffered flat tires and at one point the seat on my bike fell off. And through all of this we were all offered helped by numerous Khmer people on our walk into town, one person is getting 2 free new tires because she is "satnah" which means pretty. On one of the rides home Carmen had the chain on her bike break right as she got back to the house, lucky her!

We have already completed one house for a family. Their house had burnt down and with it most of their possessions so they were definitely in need. Our first day there I was impressed at how well they took to us and how patient they were with all of us. For some of us (myself being one of them) it was the first time in a while to swing a hammer and instead of them getting frustrated with our sometimes ineptness they just laughed with us, gave us pointers (we have all become quite good at talking with our hands and motions!) and helped us through it. I think without the patience and understanding of our first family this trip would be a difficult one! They helped us all get our confidence with tools again and miraculously we finished our first house in 3 days. Which I have to say, is quite the feat! The walls on their house consisted of us nailing smaller trees to the frame. This created a bit of an obstacle for us sometimes as there were no ladders and by the end of the three days we were hanging off of the frame and nailing as if we had been doing it our whole lives.

I am so proud of the team, we have all adjusted wonderfully and have been putting our heart and soul into these projects and I would like to think it shows! At the end of our stay in the village we are all planning on going back to visit the family to pass on clothing and other items that will help them. Developing World Connections' host Partner Bridges Across Boarders, has a Volunteer Assistant named Mr.Theary. He has been wonderful, along with the Family Dream Home Coordinator (I feel terrible but I cannot for the life of me remember how to spell or pronounce his name!). They have been on the work sites with us every day, laughing at us, with us, and helping us to learn some of the local language. "Lop lop" has become a common phrase amongst all of us (meaning crazy). The bike trails are lop lop, we are lop lop, the rain, the sun, pretty much anything. Every time we use Khmer language they smile and laugh and are so proud that they taught us something new!

We started our second house on Thursday afternoon and the bike trek proved to be a bit more of a challenge. We were riding in between rice paddies, along skinny, curvy trails, and through what we like to call a lake (it sounds cooler than a large puddle). This house shouldn't take quite as long as the siding is all thatching and requires to be wired onto the frame instead of nailed on! The first day we spent mixing cement in the rain, which had essentially cemeted my sandals onto my feet.

We are currently in Kampot for the weekend, staying at a Guest House called the Bodhi Villa. Of all things to be grateful for at the moment, it is definitely a shower!

I can't begin to say how thrilled I am that I decided to have this adventure. The people I am traveling with are all amazing, the local people are beyond belief and this country is amazing. I have no doubt in my mind that this will prove to be some of our best experiences we will have in this lifetime. Working alongside with people who truly want to better their lives and their situations is endlessly rewarding and it is easy to go to bed at night with smiles on our faces, feeling as if we have made a difference.

Until next weekend, keep fit and have fun! I know we will be!
- Joelle Risi
Developing World Connections Volunteer Participant

Student Experience, May 2009: We have arrived!

2009-05-26T11:17:00.000-07:00

I just wanted to let everyone know that everything is going fine. Sorry we haven't been able to really blog. We arrived safe with no issues. We are in Sihanoukville right now, and leaving for the village of Kep tomorrow afternoon. We start our first day of work on Monday.

Talk to you soon!

Sarah,
Student Team Leader

Returning as humbled and inspired global citizens.

2008-12-29T10:16:00.000-08:00

As I write my final blog entry I am feeling, at once, sad and happy and I trust I am not alone. It is hard to say goodbye to new friends. For some, the thought of going back to the cold and to regular life is barely more attractive that the 20 cramped hours we face in the airplane. Two weeks in a group this size is rewarding but equally tiring. I welcome some time and space alone to process and regroup... and to consciously consider how I can incorporate my profound sense of belonging I enjoy at this very moment into my daily life at work and life at home in general.

Being a Developing World Connections team leader is a significant responsibility and an honour. I am sure that the work our group accomplished and the houses we left behind, in and of themselves, is valuable to those we served. But the connections we made with each other and the Cambodians is, I believe, what will inspire us most as individuals to not let this experience end here. This is the beginning. I know this group feels as though the perspective we have gained and the generosity we have enjoyed from the Cambodian people has equaled or outweighed the contributions we have made. Our greatest collective legacy will be the culmination of all the individual changes we make in ourselves and in our own communities. We return humbled and inspired global citizens.

I have enjoyed writing this blog and sharing this experience with whoever may be interested. I can only hope I have successfully painted a picture of this meaningful adventure. However, if words are my brush, my thoughts my paint and this blog my canvass, I fear I have only offered you, the reader, at best a childlike sketch. Using words alone, I can not express to you what this all means. Perhaps the best I can do is implore you to have a Developing World Connections experience. If you have already done a meaningful adventure, do it again. In my capacity as as an employee of Developing World Connections, I would be happy to have you join us – like any non-profit, we count on people's generosity to operate and offer our services to others. But please consider my invitation a personal one. I want you to do it for you. Serve others and help yourself. There is a grassroots movement of concerned global citizens who want to make the world a better place. Bit by bit, our numbers are growing and sooner than later the culmination of our action will force an inexorable and lasting change. Change, I can see, doesn't necessarily require pain and sacrifice. On the contrary, fun, meaning and adventure should be part of the process. Developing World Connections makes it easier.

Have a meaningful adventure. Together we can change the world and find the peace, joy and contentment we all deserve.

Reflections.

2008-12-29T10:13:00.000-08:00

As I reflect on everything that has happened over these past weeks, I find three main themes recurring, entering my train of thought:
1.The people of Cambodia
2. The group experience
3. Our place in the process

The Cambodia People: For me, the joy of Cambodia is its people. Certainly, its artifacts, its vistas and its novelties are beautiful and intriguing in their own rights. However, the greatest beauty I have seen daily is in people's smiles. Cambodians are at times quite shy, other times more assertive and pushy, but most of all, polite and hospitable. This is a high context culture and one whose intricacies I have navigated only at the surface level. But, I feel welcome in Cambodia. I feel generally valued in Cambodia. I felt like it matters that I am here. Cambodians strike me as present and quick to smile and laugh. I have experienced inspiring humility.

Cambodia is forgiving.... and all of this in light of its bloody and brutal past and the injustices, inequalities and immense challenges it still faces. Could it be that having lost everything but hope itself, Cambodians have gained something intangible that many westerners seek so desperately? Can it be that some who have it all have lost something more precious? I can only speculate but my guess is that the self-help industry may find it harder to penetrate the Cambodian market. So delightful are the people that it is hard to reconcile this country's reality with one's experience of it; it does become easier, after the initial shock, to filter out the poverty. In philosophical terms, Cambodia possesses a wealth of spirit and being that isn't as easily visible to me in my smaller world in Canada...even though I know it exists. But, otherwise, Cambodia is poor, very poor. Poverty is easily exploited. Cambodia needs our solidarity. It needs more Developing World Connections volunteer participants.

Our group can be proud because we were part of this country's healing. We are leaving this country a little bit better than when we first arrived, dignity in tact ... we are leaving as better people, ourselves more dignified. Thank you Cambodia. Akun Kampuchea. Thank you Kep, Chamcar Bei, and BAB. Kinyon Sraline Kampuchea. I love Cambodia.

The Group Experience:
This group – what a pleasant surprise. I worked hard to bring this group together and not for entirely unselfish reasons. My ego would have me believe I have a keen ability to find great people, but, truth be known, they found me and I am humble enough to admit I was lucky. For a group this size, I was pleasantly surprised at how we got along and we all shared tender moments, learning from each other. We could all relate to one another and we did in a way we could have never done within the context of 'normal life'. We worked hard together. We played hard together. We had disagreements. We had romance. We had personal discover. Life long friendships have come out of this experience. We all have a common bond: Cambodia, December 2008, Developing World Connections.

The process:
As team leader, I enjoyed my role in this process. I had my fun, but team leading is work, albeit a privileged and highly enjoyable form of it. Being in a developing country is a unique experience with its privileges and challenges. One can never truly prepare themselves for how they will react when what we imagine and see on television become real..... when all of your senses take it in... when you breath reality and look into a person's eyes. Everyone reacts differently and at different times. There is no judgement in how people react and there is no good or bad way to be. Personally, I find it very interesting to observe people when they are challenged and taken out of their comfort zone. People's reactions reveal much about their personality and experience. I can't speak directly for each participant, but I do know this experience has changed each person for the better. This is my juice. I am a global citizen, but these are my people from my neck of the woods. Witnessing their transformations is my motivation. Contemplating the impact they will have as they incorporate this experiences into their daily routines reinforces why I am part of all of this.

At home it is easier to ignore the injustice and suffering of people. In a developing country, one's eyes are forced open and blindness is an option only for the coldest and saddest amongst us. Sometimes we need a little shove to remind us of what is important about being human. Interest rates, 'getting ahead', fashion, money, status, power, and keeping up with the Joneses all of the sudden becomes less important. Could it be that what makes us human – and ultimately happy - is our in-born desire to love and support other humans? Could it be that learning about the world through a glass tube just isn't enough to understand how we are all connected? I can see plain as day that when you have the opportunity to connect with another human being who has nothing in common with you but your humanity, a window of hope and meaning opens up. This is our process – we are opening these windows. Whatever happens is up to each one of us by my guess is that bit by bit we will all breath a little bit easier. Poverty is daunting. Greed is daunting. This world is a dangerous place. It is hard not to feel powerless. It is easy to be a cynic and hide behind a smug, protective shell. What does the cynic say?: “Poverty tourism”, “Guilt alleviation”. No matter, the cynic hasn't experienced what I have these past weeks. I see the twinkle in the eye of my participants and as I witness their generosity of spirit I know, as sure as day, that hope is not lost.

Team Leader's Thoughts.

2008-12-29T10:11:00.000-08:00

December 20th:
My in-country responsibilities of team leader are now complete. This morning Boonang took his final trip delivered those who must go home to the airport. We hugged. We said our," see ya later's". It was emotional. It was time. It has been a challenging, enjoyable and personally rewarding experience. Possessing an intimate understanding of the energy and skill required to successfully carry out an international volunteer experience from start to finish, I have a renewed admiration and respect for the volunteer cadre of Developing World Connections team leaders. On paper, a good team leader is organized, knowledgeable, good with people and a proactive problem solver, and this is true in practice. But for me, above all, this experience has challenged my notion of leadership and helped me improve on these skills. This group consisted of my own peers who are, in their own rights, very accomplished. Many are natural type A leaders. For those who excel at directing and managing people at home, I can appreciate the opposite challenge of letting go, being directed and trusting the process.

Any team leader can expect to be asked questions to which they won't necessarily have answers. I would highly recommend this experience to anyone in the business of wanting to improve their leadership and team work skills. I needed this experience to be reminded that true leadership is finding that fine and dynamic balance between being, at once, the assertive, confident, directive and decisive leader, and the leader who listens carefully and can build consensus. If this group is a microcosm for people in society in general, I have learned that any good leader must show the way with confidence and humility, and be transparent when the way isn't clear; he must involve people but make a timely decision; he must be committed to an idea and a process, but not married to the outcome. Earning people's trust is an achievement. Earning people's respect is an achievement. Earning people's trust and respect simultaneously is an admirable achievement. I don't pretend to great leadership, but I can say without hesitation that everybody was safe, comfortable and had a meaningful experience. To this extent, at very least, I am proud to report that this international volunteer experience was a resounding success.

Happy to be relieved of my duties and a bit overtired, it would be easy for me to romanticize the experience but trust me, we have had all had our ups and downs. Being in a group and in a developing country is not always easy and not for everybody. I come by my intentions in writing this blog honestly: I want people to better understand this experience; I want people to become interested in Developing World Connections; I want you to become part of the process. Yes, I have personal and professional vested interests, but they are valid and benevolent. You must not worry about having to read between the lines. My words are heartfelt and genuine.

Last day as Developing World Connections participants.

2008-12-29T10:08:00.000-08:00

December 19th:
This was our last official day as Developing World Connections participants. We spent the morning at the Tuol Sleng Genocide museum. We saw an impacting video and toured the grounds. There is so much I could write here but I will resist the temptation. Anyone who goes to Cambodia must visit this museum and learn about this country's painful history. What occurred here, inside what used to be a high school, was barbarous, inhuman, indescribable, evil and disgusting. Humanity must never forget what happened here. People don't voluntarily discuss the past here, but if you ask, untold stories of loss and suffering are everywhere. I asked my tuk tuk driver about his family. At face value he was just another guy earning his living. Yet, this is a man who lost all five siblings and both parents under the Khmer Rouge. This is a man who has experienced a level of suffering, depravity and loss I can't even conceive. Yet, he drives me with a smile. He told me of his past with a nervous laughter and in such a matter-of-fact kind of way that it makes reconciling his state of being and his experience very difficult.... as it does reconciling the reality of this country's past with its present. Are people's shy smiles a function of its culture or a symptom of a nation-wide case of post traumatic stress? Cambodia is very intriguing.

Visiting this museum provided more meaning and context to the experiences we have had in the past weeks. How is it that to this day, at this moment, there is still genocide and our international community refuses to take the necessary affirmative and collective action? I was inspired to learn more about what is happening in Africa today and consider my small role in ending it.

After lunch we had the afternoon to ourselves to explore Phnom Pehn. The markets here are phenomenal. I bought more trinkets and memorabilia and for the cost of one month of cable, I bought enough commercial free documentaries to last me months. Some of us also visited the national palace and admired the gold, silver and diamonds and fantastic architecture. We learned about the different kind of Buddhas. I can appreciate the importance of history and tradition, but something about seeing this kind of opulence in a country whose people suffer from scarcity just bothers me. Yet, who am I to judge? I suppose, as a Canadian, I am technically a royal subject as well, though not by choice. Given the recent political events in Canada, I can also suppose that on the odd occasion our royal representatives can actually come in handy.

By this time most of the original group has reunited for what would be our last dinner. We took this time to enjoy everyone's company all together, perhaps for the last time ever, and to reflect on our favorite memories. Erinn spoke of witnessing a little girl placing flowers on the graves of the last people who perished at Tuol Sleng and how it served as an emotional reminder of how recently this tragedy occurred. Sherilyn told us of her experience working the rice fields and connection with the people. For her, witnessing and participating in their way of life, if only momentarily, was a way of connecting to her own ancestors. Shalen spoke of the moments we all shared at the hotel sitting on the deck watching the sunrise. For her, these sweet moments were a reminder that everyday is in some ways the same, and in others different... that we must live in the moment. Ben spoke of his moments playing soccer with the kids and doing drawings and the joy it brought him connecting at that level. Some spoke of the dance party with the kids, others about our good times singing songs on the bus ride home, others about their memories working on the houses. Saran and Christina joined us for dinner. In her broken English, Saran told us that she loved us and we knew she meant it. Christina shared her own experience in Cambodia and reminded us of how important we all are to the process.

At this time, the comments I had been hoping for but not expecting were being vocalized. I heard:

“ I wouldn't travel any other way.”
“This was a fantastic, life changing experience.”
“My eyes have been opened.”
“Thanks Jess.”
“I enjoyed the structure of the group, but being able to experience the country on my own terms.”
“Let's stay in touch.”
“I felt like I was part of the country and got to participate in its development.”
“I am going to volunteer at home.”
“I am going to Rwanda next with Developing World Connections.”

During these moments the group may not have known it by my outwardly expression, but I was gleaming with pride. We did it! To those on our team - DWC Cambodia, Dec. 2008 - thank you so much! I really, really, really, appreciate you being with us and contributing generously. We have collectively contributed $9,500 towards directly improving the lives of the Cambodia people we served. We built two dream houses. We painted a community centre. We contributed thousands and thousands of dollars to the Cambodian economy. We beared witness and made it known that we care about Cambodia. We made meaningful connections with each other and with the Cambodian people. Mission accomplished!

After dinner, we hopped in some tuk tuks. In Phnom Pehn, there is never a lack of tuk tuks or people to take you where you want to go cheaply and at any hour. As is the case in most developing countries, for those with money, a little money can go a long way. It is going to be hard to come home and pay as much for a cappuccino as I would for a meal here. Goods and services are cheap, especially services. I still haven't figured out exactly how tipping works here, but, at these prices, one need not hesitate to do it.

Anyhow, we all went out and let's just say good times were had. Sorry folks, sometimes what happens in Cambodia stays in Cambodia. Wink, wink, nudge, nudge. Good times!

Enroute to Phnom Pehn.

2008-12-29T10:07:00.000-08:00

December 18th:
Several people decided to leave one day early to go see Siem Reap and Angkor Wat before meeting up with the rest of us in Phnom Pehn. For those of us who stayed, today was a physically and emotionally exhausting one but also the most rewarding on several levels. I can speak for many of us when I say that we are now physically tired. We have been working hard and playing hard for almost two weeks now. Personally, I can't remember the last time I have existed on such little sleep and I envy the drive and energy of my counterparts. The physical exertion, late nights and heat have finally caught up with me.....I am fighting the urge to close my eyes but don't for fear of not wanting to wake up for days.

As I write, we are on the bus on our way back to Phnom Pehn. I was sad to leave the peace and tranquility of Kep, the ocean, and, above all, all the new friends I have made. Boonang, our fearless driver, is honking the horn incessantly as we pass family after family piled on scooters, sometimes four or five at a time. The honking will help me stay awake. I whisper silently to myself: “Resist the temptation Rothenburger. Resist.”

Perhaps it is the tiredness, but I am feeling a little overwhelmed right now. I have seen and experienced so much in the past couple of weeks that I can't process it fast enough. I expect I will spend the next months digesting it all. I expect we all will. I feel that I have so much to say but my mind is racing faster than my fingers can type. I can scarcely complete a sentence before my thoughts have skipped ahead to my next memory, emotion and reflection.

When we get to Phnom Pehn we are all free the evening. As for me, I plan to eat, get a massage and sleep.

A little love goes a long way.

2008-12-29T10:04:00.000-08:00

December 17th:
In the morning we worked at the composting bin. We were told we would be 'composting' and we were all very curious to know what this would entail. We spent the morning gathering up shrubs and chopping them into little pieces with machetes. Essentially, over the course of several hours, our group accomplished what a small gas powered machine could accomplish in one. But, this wasn't the point. When in Cambodia do as the Cambodians do. We were together. We were learning. The real purpose wasn't lost though. By this point, we have mostly let go of the 'get things done as fast and efficiently as possible' way of thinking. Things are different in Cambodia. People are different. I think we are all now a little different.

Tired, we took an early lunch and feasted on what would be our last meal prepared by my favorite Cambodian cook (and my favorite Cambodian) – Saran! For me this was the best meal I have had in Cambodia. She prepared ample amounts of curry crab. Have I mentioned yet that I love crab? Anyhow, she prepared enough crab for everyone but because some had left early we enjoyed a surplus. I am pleased to report that we (especially the boys) took one for the team and stuffed ourselves silly. Let's just say I didn't eat dinner that night.

In the afternoon we spent almost three hours playing with the kids at the Children's Learning Centre and we played hard. We sang, we danced, we played a number of games and generally enjoyed each other's company. These kids aren't shy and like getting their pictures taken. I enjoyed the fact that they were as interested in us as we in them. They sang the alphabet for us and some showed off their surprisingly good English skills. We did our English rendition of Old MacDonald had a farm and they did their Khmer version. Who knew that pigs, dogs and chickens make different sounds in Cambodia? Ben what a hit with his guitar and enjoyed one of his most enthralled audiences to date (his words, not mine). Ben and I had a contest to see how many kids we could have hanging off of us at one time. We tied at 6 each. Kyle kept busy throwing the balls around and playing catch. Bobbi, Sherilyn and Shalen kept the kids entertained with group games. I can't remember what Tommy was up to, but my best guess is some sort of gymnastics. As I recall, there was an impromptu game of bowling using a water bottle and a ball. We formed a human pyramid – don't worry, the kids were on top. We gave tons of piggie back rides.

I found it interesting how well behaved these kids were. They were very interested in our things as well, like our sunglasses and cameras. Our items were passed around. Yet, they treated our things with respect and even if we didn't expect some things back, they all came back to us safe and sound. We had all brought a significant amount of donations but we were all wishing we had brought more. Note to self: next time bring more things to play with like soccer balls. It was also neat to see how the girls naturally tended to conglomerate with the ladies and the boys with the men. We were equally fascinated with one another. These hours were the highlight of my trip. Two boys in particular decided that I was theirs. From when we arrived until we left one or the other was literally stuck to me. Towards the end as we sang song, they were getting tired and were both falling asleep on my lap. As they nodded off it was so cute as they clambered and competed for my lap space. I felt really special and they didn't need to say a word. It warmed my heart. Thanks to these boys I have discovered in myself that someday I will be a Dad...I'll be ready. Thanks guys. Akun. As the bus left the entire school saw us of. We high-five'd. We waved. We blew kisses. There were eyes filled with tears.

In keeping with tradition, we made our way back to the hotel, cracked a few cold beers and watched the sunset, basking in the moment and reveling in what a great day we had.

Just when I though this day couldn't get any better, it did. Our group was privileged to be in Kep at the same time BAB in Cambodia was doing its strategic planning session with virtually all its staff and volunteers. BAB was kind enough to invite us to join them for dinner at a cozy and spacious beach side restaurant. There were probably 50 people or more present. BAB has volunteers from all around the world and we met people from Australia, Scotland and the US. Wow, these volunteers have it all: skills, generous spirits and good looks. There is something special going on here.

After dinner our group started some impromptu dancing which evolved into a full fledged party. We drank and danced and enjoyed some international group bonding on the dock. We cranked up some Queen, some Abba and some U2. By this time I still hadn't figured out exactly what our group itinerary was for the next day but I indulged again in a few hours of completely care free moments.

Some people went home relatively early and others welcomed in the morning. Earlier that evening I attached myself to an old dog who had evidently just become a mother. I am an animal lover so, unable to resist, I had to pet her, again tossing out the health nurse's recomendations. The dog welcomed my attention and she returned the favour. She and her doggie counterpart walked us stragglers home a far distance to the hotel. They weren't just following us – they had come to protect us, not a word of a lie. They walked us right to our doorstep and waking up the next morning, some participants must have wondered why there was a dog out their front door. This day was full of love. A little love it seems can go a long way.

This is my kind of travel.

Inspired Poems

2008-12-29T10:03:00.000-08:00

This feeling called free - April Hoffman:

Come over me
this feeling called free
full moon
full hearth
with purity sings
thatched rood for a shelter
and mud on the walls
my heart starts yearning when
Cambodia calls
Beautiful people
with welcoming smiles
the change in my soul
to carry for miles

A Cambodian Rice Field - Chrystie Stewart:

This morning I sat in a rice field
My elbow perched on my knees
I looked throug the swaying fields
And I felt the rythm of being free
For us this is a choice
And one we may not make
For them it does not mattter
A liberty they cannot take
But that little boy still laughs and smiles
And I wonder what he thinks
Even the cows seem to have an opinion
When they offer up a wink
Today is the day of harverst
It happens but once a year
It is us that is here to help them
But making things worse is my fear
Do they feel like they are on display
Is it possible this is poverty tourism
I wish there was some language
And maybe there is some in Bhuddism
Be gentle with these people
They have the same families as you and I
Listen carefully with your eyes when they show you
How to Chop rice with a sye
This morning I sat in a rice field
My elbows perched on my knee
As I watched that little boy laughing
I realized it was him that was trully free.

A Place called Cambodia – Ingrid Brakop

To the place called Cambodia
Baby here is my ode to you
You are a fine lady, hot and fierce but
Your people, they are loyal and stoic and free
My heart they do pierce
The children. The cows, the flea bag dogs
Yes, even the cockroach that trampled me
They are all a pleasure.

The dogs stare at us as the bus drives bye
They gotta be wondering, hey,
What's up with all the white guys?
The driver Boonang, he's quiet but skilled
He smiles everytime the bus hits a bump
And the girls in the back scream
Like they may be killed.
My heart aches at the garbage
That pollutes your canvass, your rivers and sky
But it's not my place to judge so
I just sit silently and watch it all go bye.

Despite the terror, despite the blood shed
Your people still welcome us and offer us a bed.
The food is divine, the markets are wild
The traffic is nuts
I think the people that live here have a lot of guts.
You've welcomed us, we have walked on your turf
We tasted the China Sea water and swam in your surf

I've laughed here – a whole lot.
I've cried here – yes, I have wept for the people that have died here.

For days now I stagger onto a bus
The driver, there he sits, no words, no fuss
I smile at him everyday and now he smiles back.

I no longer fear, I no longer judge
Heck, I saw people eating some snails from the sludge
You who have survived and once again you will thrive
I say this with passion and have written it in letters I've sent
I've never been so confident.

Cambodia – Ben Neilson/Christopher Seguin

Seen from a smile, spoken through eyes
Elderly wrinkles, innocence disguise
Yesteday's pain, rouge reign
Bloodshed horror of tomorrow's birth

From violence to silence, to forget or forgive
Bones of a generation, a nation will live
With westerners here, a Christmas fade
They interrogate, regenerate, the blood of the spade

Empty walls, roofed full of fears
Haunting whole hillsdie of five field years
I strike the nail, scrape the shale,
I paint the scars, rake the harvest

As one man, in two shoes
A third world spread the news
I meet Cambodia,
With a crying ode to ya

You get what you give, so give what you have
Like a look, love or laugh
My song through static
Is comfort in a hammock

Global Citizenship and meaningful connections.

2008-12-29T10:00:00.000-08:00

December 16th:
Today we harvested rice in the morning and thrashed rice in the afternoon. The family whose plot we worked on was kind to allow us on their land and was exceedingly patient with us. Understanding the importance of this harvest and the immediate implications of rice going to waste, I was painfully careful to do it right. I feared being more of a burden than a help. I was impressed at how efficiently and quick this family was. I regret that tying bunches or rice together is not a skill I can honestly add to my resume. They make it look so easy but it's really difficult! We stumbled along and our collective inability was of great interest and amusement to the neighbours. They laughed openly at us and no offense was taken – we were a funny sight to behold. Using sharp blades to cut the rice, I managed to try and chop off my leg … I failed with only a scratch.

This was an opportunity for us to witness how most Cambodians live traditionally and have lived for countless generations. In this fashion, tradition and life itself is founded on family, religion and the land. Again, I hesitate to romanticize this way of living as people's weathered faces tell stories of hardship. As for me, don't get me wrong as I like my Facebook, my internet, my things and the occasion drive-thru. Yet, I can't help feeling that these people possess an intangible quality of living not so readily accessible to those of us who have been marketed to since birth. The Khmer Rouge tried to brutally and swiftly destroy this tradition of family and religion – a proud tradition that has, does and will continue to serve Cambodians well. In this light, the Khmer Rouge's radical leftist attempts easily reveal themselves to be little more than textbook hypocrisy, thuggish power mongering and pathological sadism. But, the Khmer Rouge failed. The Cambodian's ability to preserve this lifestyle despite everything gives me a reserved sense of hope that the inexorable forces of urbanization, capitalism, mechanization, technology and “progress” will not destroy it. Perhaps a balance exists whereby the benefits of modernization can be had in harmony with those of a simpler lifestyle as well. Perhaps this is true for us in the so-called “developed world” ... maybe a balance exists where we can benefit from money and the economy without living in service to it....a balance where greater value and appreciation is placed on things that are of a much more fundamental importance.

In the afternoon we proceeded to thrash the rice. Everything is done by hand. Nothing is taken for granted. The family was kind enough to offer us some refreshing coconut milk. We gestured, laughed and communicated the best we could and I felt the powerful connection was made between the locals and our group. For many I could tell today they experience a personal shift. I can't speak for everyone, but I think we gained some valuable perspective and a palpable feeling that no matter our differences, we are all essentially the same. We all want good food. We all love our families. We all want to be safe and secure. We all want to believe that things are getting better. The world felt small today. It is easy to see how it takes so little to make a meaningful connection between people... and how easy it is to care for others. The spirit of cooperation feels good. Global citizenship feels good.

Over dinner there was discussion about the experiences we have had. I was pleased to see that all of this was having an impact on people's thinking and perspective. Seeing is believing. Time will tell what comes out of all of this but I believe a trigger has been pulled inside of us.

Chrystie had the great idea to have a poetry contest. Each contestant put in a buck and the winner – by popular vote – got to keep the pot. The winner, by a narrow margin, was Shalen Curle. She did an animated rap for our group's ears only – sorry readers. But, I am happy to share that the following poems that were inspired by this trip and read over dinner.

Volunteering, work that becomes play

2008-12-29T09:58:00.000-08:00

December 15th:
Back to work. We scraped. Joining forces, we painted and laboured as one large work group. Alas, we couldn't finish both buildings, but we made a large dent. By the end of the day, tired and weary, our work became play. We joked and laughed and entertained the locals, as usual.

By now I can tell that part of the romance of being in a developing country has worn off a bit. Developing World Connections makes it easier, but all the little things that are easy and we take for granted aren't easy here. Drinkable tap water: What a great idea! Garbage collection: What a fantastic idea! Fast internet: What a novelty! Traffic laws: Excellent concept! Shower curtains: Good thinking. Quality tools: How efficient. The list goes on. We aren't complaining, but by this time, even if we aren't nearly ready to go home, we know that there are aspects to the way we live we will welcome back into our routine.

Tonight's activities were especially fun and involved swimming. A digital camera - $200. A two week Developing World Connections experience - $1,800 CDN. A couple of drinks by the Kep Lodge pool - $5. A digital camera by the Kep Lodge pool after a couple of drinks with this Developing World Connections group – Priceless!

Relax and enjoy

2008-12-29T09:56:00.000-08:00

December 14th:
Today's modus operandi: relaxation. I have nothing exciting to report and I hesitate to go too much in too detail so as not to make those at home in sub-zero weather jealous. Too bad – I can't resist. A small group decided to stay in Sianoukville the previous night in order to go scuba-diving and to shake it up. The rest of us took a 20 minute boat ride on the Gulf of Thailand to get to Rabbit Island. Rabbit Island is small and consists of little more than a sandy beach, clear water and a few food stalls. It was named Rabbit Island because apparently it looks like a rabbit. This is a stretch – I think whoever named it must have consumed a local 'happy drink'. We swam, ate, read, bathed in the sun, napped, frolicked and relaxed. My only concern was the coconuts falling on someone. I reminded myself of the Buddhist philosophy that everything is temporary and that what will be will be. Alas, my reflections did little to ease my worry and I was relieved that by the end of our visit everyone was happy, and above all, safe. Notwithstanding some really red faces and sun-crisped bodies, all was well.

On the boat ride home I enjoyed the ocean air and looked forward to a meal and an early night. After all, relaxing on the beach all day is a taxing work. Back on land, we hired some tuk tuks to tour us around Kep. We saw the remnants of the French colonial mansions that today now sit vacant and grown over leaving their glorious pasts only to imagination. We took a few token tourist pictures beside Cambodia's largest statue of a crab and moved on.

Speaking of crab, I should say that eating crab regularly is a treat that I will miss very much. A full plate of crab costs about $5 US. As much as I have enjoyed the food, I should mention that by now I have heard the following several times: “I would kill for a cheese burger”. Going to the White Spot is on my to do list when I get home. I also regret to inform you that by now the inevitable has happened: the runs. The combination of intense sun, late nights and new micro organisms have left our immune systems compromised. A fair share of us have experienced sore bellies, canker sores and shrinking appetites.... but nothing bad enough to dampen our spirits.

PS: Another predictable inevitability has occurred: romance. Sorry kids, no details for you.

Off to bed.

Exploring Cambodia from a different perspective

2008-12-29T09:54:00.000-08:00

December 13th:
It was particularly hot today. My best guess is that during the height of the day it gets to about 28-30 degrees Celsius, but with the humidity it feels like about 35. We sweat all day and have to remind ourselves to drink more water than we would prefer. The air conditioning in our rooms is a welcome relief, if not to cool down but to dry off.

Today we played tourist. We went to explore Sianoukville which is a port city and caters to beach enthusiasts and partiers world wide. We splintered off into smaller groups and enjoyed the sand, surf and massages. Void of the garbage, the throngs of tourists and the beggars, I can imagine that sometime not so long ago the beach itself was a pristine natural wonder. Those days are gone. It was a novelty being here, but I only needed one day to experience it.

There is a visible and palpable seediness here. The sex trade was more in my face that I expected to be. A surprising number of older men are shamelessly accompanied by young women who are obviously paid. It's accepted and common and nobody seems to care. There is a plethora of beggars here, ranging from those without limbs to parents with sick, limp children and children alone. Some of the more entrepreneurial child beggars have learned the art of pulling the emotional heart strings, evident by those sporting t-shirts that read, “I could be your daughter”. I made a personal commitment not to give to the beggers for noble reasons. It may sound cruel, but giving to beggers, in the grander scheme, only perpetuates a vicious cycle of dependence, indignity and poverty. My resolve was tested to the limit when a blind man walked by, led by what I can only guess were his daughters. These girls were dirty and sad looking. The extent to which the sadness was real or an act I do not know. He was singing a heart-wrenching and melancholy version of my favourite song – Unchained Melody. He knew all the words in English. I was impressed, but I resisted. However, I must admit, nearing the end of the day, sun-drunk and emotionally worn down, I buckled. As I looked up into the sun, a young man approached me missing both hands. My best guess is that he was a landmine victim. I have seen many maimed people missing limbs. The worst case I saw was a man literally missing half his face, an eye and a hand. With this man, though blurred by the sun, I could see a level of dignity in this man's eyes that spoke to me: “I have no hands. I need your help, though I wish I didn't, for I am a man. But, here I am without a choice. The choice is yours to assist me because my government will not. There is no obligation here.” I felt blessed. I could be this man. I am not religious or superstitious but if ever there was a chance for good karma, this was it. This was not an enjoyable experience, nor was it painful. Reflecting on it now, I needed him as a reminder.... he gave me more resolve to be part of the process and to remind others that if you aren't part of the process, you are complicit in the problem.

Then you have the vendors hawking sh*t you don't need. Any undisciplined resolve I may have had not to buy went flying out the window. I am now the proud owner of three cheap pairs of sunglasses I don't need. God, I hate myself sometimes. Oh well, it makes for a good story and the process is fun because you have to make it fun. Actually, it's not rocket science. They say $10, you say $3 and then you meet in the middle. The more you buy, the more the discount. You have all the power really as you don't need the item and 100 other people are happy to sell you the same thing. On rare occasions someone will offer you a fair price right from the start and save you the hassle. In this case, I always tip as a gesture of appreciation. Just for fun, here are a few free bargaining tips: 1. Nothing is free. 'Free' means a giving a tip 2. When they won't give you a fair price, walk away. Suddenly, your price is doable. 3. Keep small change. 4. No means yes. Don't make eye contact or talk. It goes against our nature, but it works and it would appear that no offense it taken – business is business, I guess.

On the beach many if not most of the vendors are children. “Child labour” is very taboo in the western world, but one can see 'working children' (i.e.children who work with dignity and respect with a chance to support the family) as beneficial within a certain context. From those who approached me with dignity, I purchased several trinkets. No word of a lie, you can tell that some kids enjoy the challenge and interaction with the tourists. Indeed, some kids' level of English and social skill are quite impressive. The survivors are the intelligent ones who seem to have accepted the situation without accepting their plot; there appears to be an element of proactive choice made with a vision of a brighter future. These kids inspire. However, in Sianoukville, many child vendors don't have dignity. Rather, they approach aggressively and get angry when you don't readily fulfill your expected role as tourist and consumer. Many children don't easily disguise their resentment of working. These kids make me feel sad and indignant. A carefree childhood should never be taken for granted.

Many of us indulged in massages as well. At these prices, I have become somewhat of a massage enthusiast. For a couple of bucks one can even get their toe nails clipped and dead skin removed. I opted out of the nail clipping. In Cambodia, if you will pay for it, someone will do it for you. Half way in to my massage, I felt a sharp pain. I got more than I bargained for as, apparently, pimple popping and hair removal is included... for a cost. I will spare you more details.

From what I have gathered, in Sianoukville, it is the wealthy that are benefiting the most as those with the means and connections buy up stretches of beach where tourists flock. Apparently the Chinese, Russians and Koreans are 'investing' heavily. We know Cambodia to be one of the most corrupt countries in the world. Those with money and connections in government have basically stolen the best land. Capital investment and 'development' is often made on the backs of those who are intimidated and bullied and disposed of the land they need to subsist. This is infuriating! While lying on the beach enjoying the sun and cheap service, I was scared to open my eyes any more for fear of knowing to what extent I may be complicit to this injustice.

Kep, in contrast, has the right amenities less the negative influence of tourism. I fear Kep's originality and authenticity will be compromised if more people, interested only in the beach and food, discover this gem. On one hand, I can appreciate the economic benefit to the locals if tourism expands in Kep. Every Cambodian I have asked, the owners and workers alike, report welcoming tourists with open arms. Tourism = money. I suppose when one needs to feed their family, preserving the environment and culture are of secondary importance. No judgement. Leadership must come from the top as much, if not more, than from the bottom. I can't but be concerned: Who will benefit? At what cost? Will the development be sustainable? I hope the ugly face of tourism doesn't destroy this jewel.

That night many of us ended up at a really cool restaurant called the Snake Pit where there were snakes inside the glass tables. There were alligators, snakes, reptiles and fish in a large glass tank in the middle of the restaurant – not something you see everyday. Given that there were Russian ladies hanging around and the fact that the menu was also in Russian, our best guess was that this place was run by the Russians. The mob perhaps?. We left before the all-night dancing girls started dancing. Dodgy. That's Sianoukville for you.

I had lots of fun and collected a few more novel stories to tell around a campfire. But, I was also glad to go 'home' to Kep and I am sure I wasn't alone. The bus ride home was good times... more singing and laughter. As if this day couldn't be more novel, we stopped along the way to pick up some beverages for the ride home and enjoyed some impromptu Karaoke with the locals. What was a 2.5 hours bus ride in the day became a 4.5 hour ride home – Boonang was extra cautious. There was a full moon and many Cambodians drive with their headlights off because they think they are saving energy. A little public education here could go a long way.

Today's experience stands in stark contrast to the Developing World Connections experience in general and convinced me even more of the value of what we do. Traditional tourism, for better or for worse, is business. Relationships are based on money and power and authentic human interactions are more limited. On the beach, each party's base vested interest is getting more for less. One feels like an object. People become more aggressive. The volunteer work experience, in contrast, is infinitely more meaningful. People's vested interests are other people. You get to be part of something bigger than yourself: the people's process. There is equality, dignity and respect. The Cambodia I have grown to know and love is in Chamkar Bei and Kep, not Sianoukville.

Raising a house and fulfilling a dream

2008-12-29T09:52:00.000-08:00

December 12th:

This was the last day of work this week. The other group continued scrapping and painting the community buildings and it was a tough go. Sometimes work is work. Group number two finished off the dream home and it was another day full of song, dance and thatching. After only one day on site, both the participants and the locals became more comfortable with the process and the non-verbal communication became more fluid and relaxed. We developed international comradey and truly did build bridges across borders. It was heartwarming to the participants for them to see that the family was very pleased to have us there. By the end of the day emotions were running high and tears of joy were shed. As the goodbye's were made, Mr. Theary translated for the man of the house: “Thank you so much for your help. This is a dream come true”. It takes so little to make such a difference. Today, Developing World Connections volunteers raised a house and fulfilled a dream.

I have asked people if they would like to share their thoughts so far with you. Here they are:

Shalen Curle:

“It's several days in and I've lost track of the days. Is it Monday? Wednesday? I honestly have no idea and you don't even know how incredible this feels. I don't know what time of day it is... I only know that I wake up when the rooster calls. The first day this happened I actually thought that the rooster was lying. I heard him “cock a doodle doooooo” and I looked out the window and only saw complete darkness. I thought to myself “there is no way it's morning”... But sure enough, ten minutes later the sky started to lighten and the sun started to rise in the sky. As I write this I am looking out upon half of our group who are painting one of the buildings in the Community Training Facility and a girl named Lune is sitting with me watching so curiously as I write on Jess' mini note book computer. The Khmer girls are weaving fabrics in the room behind me. I will never take a piece of clothing for granted again. Once you see the workmanship that goes into each thread, each artistic design, each movement... all to create something that will sustain and simply feed one's family. This is something that every human being should see...We are so fortunate that we get to work and have the opportunity to see a world that is so different than ours...Imagine, a family of four on a motorbike and a gas station which is 10-1 Litre Pepsi bottles on a small table filled with gas on the side of the road. The work we are doing is meaningful, however the changes that I have already experienced in myself are more meaningful. What amazes me is that although there is poverty there is an unmarked joy and kindness from the Khmer people. Don't believe the cynics... Change is possible... Although maybe it's a change in you and I...This is only the beginning.”

April Hoffman:

“I've lost track of time. I don't know what day it is or what time it is, and I sometimes find myself forgetting what month it is. In preparing myself for this trip I decided that I didn't want to create any great expectations in fear of being disappointed. And while I definitely think this has helped open my mind to the culture, I also now realize I had nothing to fear. Phnom Penh is daunting. I've never witnessed such blatant poverty. I remember watching a show on TV about how people will wait for garbage trucks to pick up the trash on the side of the street (trash has to be bagged or else the garbage trucks wont pick it up), once in the back of the truck packs of young men jump inside the truck and go through trash bags looking for anything they might be able to use or sell. I remember watching it and thinking to myself that this is why I'm going – to try, in some round-about-way, to help. There was some definite culture shock upon arrival, and when I witnessed first hand the packs of young men jumping into the back of a garbage truck while I looked down from the hostel balcony, I nearly cried. The garbage, the poverty, the day-to-day struggle to meet basic needs nearly blinded me – but it didn't, and Cambodia is beautiful!! There are a million descriptions I want to write down – the children with their shy smiles, waving at us from the side of the road as we drive by on our tour bus. The children with the big welcoming smiles, excited at the foreigners passing by. The simple beauty of the countryside, scattered with lush trees and rice fields. The people working in the rice fields, harvesting the food that will feed them over the next year. The lack of cars, but abundance of motorbikes and bicycles. Life is simple here and I find it so refreshing. My fear now is Western influences moving in and destroying it.“

Amanda Arbour:

“On my other adventures to Asia, I was never fortunate to visit Cambodia, From what I've heard and from what I've now experienced, Cambodia has more to offer than Phnom Penh and Anchor Watt- the people in the rural villages are full of life, kindness, generosity and smiles. My time spent with the village children, talking with the local villagers and seeing first hand how they live their day to day lives has been an experience beyond words- you'll just have to come and see for yourself.”

Christopher Seguin: “From desk to the jungle plains of Cambodia. After a year and a half without a trip or vacation the chance to bang weak nails in iron -like wood came as a welcome reprieve. We were given the task of creating a small home from scratch in two days. From six large poles thrust into the earth we built a frame, walls, a floor and roof. From thatch and wood arose a home. The family who was to live in the home helped us hammering, lifting, tying. They were tiny people who could lift more than their body weight. Their huge smiles and extremely limited English made each moment a chance to grin and giggle. This home was a new beginning, a fresh start, and as those walls rose and the thatch began to become a roof, I felt that I had done something, built something, changed something. No matter our job or position ,it is very special to build something with your hands, and it is extremely special to give that something away, to change the lives of others with sweat and tears. My thumbs will never be the same.”

Ben Nielsen:

“No expectations backed by naiveté and a good spirit is how I entered Cambodia. Despite my planning and preparation, the reality of this third world country is too distinct to imagine. It is a happy place full of life, soil and soul. The smiles of the Cambodian people are so warm and friendly and their eyes so interpretive. I found myself caught in the moment as I hammered my first nail. A moment of satisfaction. But it was the children that make you feel a sense of “good”, for lack of a better word. Whether playing soccer, dancing, or drawing pictures with the kids; it is evident how appreciative the family is of our presence. I have traveled around Australia and Europe, but never with a volunteer group like this. It is truly the best way to experience the real culture while meeting like minded people and feeling good about giving back. Besides, it's nice to work off the late nights of ocean dips, sing-a-longs, and brilliant dinners! All in all, for anyone interested in the full traveling package, sign up for a trip like this!”

Participant Thoughts

2008-12-29T09:43:00.000-08:00

December 12th:

This was the last day of work this week. The other group continued scrapping and painting the community buildings and it was a tough go. Sometimes work is work. Group number two finished off the dream home and it was another day full of song, dance and thatching. After only one day on site, both the participants and the locals became more comfortable with the process and the non-verbal communication became more fluid and relaxed. We developed international comradey and truly did build bridges across borders. It was heartwarming to the participants for them to see that the family was very pleased to have us there. By the end of the day emotions were running high and tears of joy were shed. As the goodbye's were made, Mr. Theary translated for the man of the house: “Thank you so much for your help. This is a dream come true”. It takes so little to make such a difference. Today, Developing World Connections volunteers raised a house and fulfilled a dream.

I have asked people if they would like to share their thoughts so far with you. Here they are:

Shalen Curle:

“It's several days in and I've lost track of the days. Is it Monday? Wednesday? I honestly have no idea and you don't even know how incredible this feels. I don't know what time of day it is... I only know that I wake up when the rooster calls. The first day this happened I actually thought that the rooster was lying. I heard him “cock a doodle doooooo” and I looked out the window and only saw complete darkness. I thought to myself “there is no way it's morning”... But sure enough, ten minutes later the sky started to lighten and the sun started to rise in the sky. As I write this I am looking out upon half of our group who are painting one of the buildings in the Community Training Facility and a girl named Lune is sitting with me watching so curiously as I write on Jess' mini note book computer. The Khmer girls are weaving fabrics in the room behind me. I will never take a piece of clothing for granted again. Once you see the workmanship that goes into each thread, each artistic design, each movement... all to create something that will sustain and simply feed one's family. This is something that every human being should see...We are so fortunate that we get to work and have the opportunity to see a world that is so different than ours...Imagine, a family of four on a motorbike and a gas station which is 10-1 Litre Pepsi bottles on a small table filled with gas on the side of the road. The work we are doing is meaningful, however the changes that I have already experienced in myself are more meaningful. What amazes me is that although there is poverty there is an unmarked joy and kindness from the Khmer people. Don't believe the cynics... Change is possible... Although maybe it's a change in you and I...This is only the beginning.”

April Hoffman:

“I've lost track of time. I don't know what day it is or what time it is, and I sometimes find myself forgetting what month it is. In preparing myself for this trip I decided that I didn't want to create any great expectations in fear of being disappointed. And while I definitely think this has helped open my mind to the culture, I also now realize I had nothing to fear. Phnom Penh is daunting. I've never witnessed such blatant poverty. I remember watching a show on TV about how people will wait for garbage trucks to pick up the trash on the side of the street (trash has to be bagged or else the garbage trucks wont pick it up), once in the back of the truck packs of young men jump inside the truck and go through trash bags looking for anything they might be able to use or sell. I remember watching it and thinking to myself that this is why I'm going – to try, in some round-about-way, to help. There was some definite culture shock upon arrival, and when I witnessed first hand the packs of young men jumping into the back of a garbage truck while I looked down from the hostel balcony, I nearly cried. The garbage, the poverty, the day-to-day struggle to meet basic needs nearly blinded me – but it didn't, and Cambodia is beautiful!! There are a million descriptions I want to write down – the children with their shy smiles, waving at us from the side of the road as we drive by on our tour bus. The children with the big welcoming smiles, excited at the foreigners passing by. The simple beauty of the countryside, scattered with lush trees and rice fields. The people working in the rice fields, harvesting the food that will feed them over the next year. The lack of cars, but abundance of motorbikes and bicycles. Life is simple here and I find it so refreshing. My fear now is Western influences moving in and destroying it.“

Amanda Arbour:

“On my other adventures to Asia, I was never fortunate to visit Cambodia, From what I've heard and from what I've now experienced, Cambodia has more to offer than Phnom Penh and Anchor Watt- the people in the rural villages are full of life, kindness, generosity and smiles. My time spent with the village children, talking with the local villagers and seeing first hand how they live their day to day lives has been an experience beyond words- you'll just have to come and see for yourself.”

Christopher Seguin: “From desk to the jungle plains of Cambodia. After a year and a half without a trip or vacation the chance to bang weak nails in iron -like wood came as a welcome reprieve. We were given the task of creating a small home from scratch in two days. From six large poles thrust into the earth we built a frame, walls, a floor and roof. From thatch and wood arose a home. The family who was to live in the home helped us hammering, lifting, tying. They were tiny people who could lift more than their body weight. Their huge smiles and extremely limited English made each moment a chance to grin and giggle. This home was a new beginning, a fresh start, and as those walls rose and the thatch began to become a roof, I felt that I had done something, built something, changed something. No matter our job or position ,it is very special to build something with your hands, and it is extremely special to give that something away, to change the lives of others with sweat and tears. My thumbs will never be the same.”

Ben Nielsen:

“No expectations backed by naiveté and a good spirit is how I entered Cambodia. Despite my planning and preparation, the reality of this third world country is too distinct to imagine. It is a happy place full of life, soil and soul. The smiles of the Cambodian people are so warm and friendly and their eyes so interpretive. I found myself caught in the moment as I hammered my first nail. A moment of satisfaction. But it was the children that make you feel a sense of “good”, for lack of a better word. Whether playing soccer, dancing, or drawing pictures with the kids; it is evident how appreciative the family is of our presence. I have traveled around Australia and Europe, but never with a volunteer group like this. It is truly the best way to experience the real culture while meeting like minded people and feeling good about giving back. Besides, it's nice to work off the late nights of ocean dips, sing-a-longs, and brilliant dinners! All in all, for anyone interested in the full traveling package, sign up for a trip like this!”

Thatching a Dream Home's roof: A lesson in strong and nimble fingers.

2008-12-15T13:59:00.000-08:00

December 11th :

Today it was my work group's turn to work on a 'dream home'. It was fantastic! I can now add roof thatching to my resume. In this case, rather than starting from scratch, we took the frame of an existing structure and added to it. The frame was leaning over about 20 degrees. We collectively pushed with all of our might and propped up the house with some logs. We got a quick lesson on how to properly attach the thatch to the roof and it looked really easy to do...until we tried it for ourselves. After several failed attempts we decided it wasn't for a lack of technique but rather a lack of what Tommy refers to as “insane Cambodian finger strength”. I guess using a keyboard all day doesn't develop the same finger muscles. In any case, we did the best we could and by the end of the day we had almost completed the roof. We lamented not being able to run to the nearest Home Hardware to pick up the necessary tools to make things easier. Some zap straps could have gone a long way. This was a good exercise for us... an opportunity to remind ourselves that we are here to learn other ways of doing things. We resisted the temptation to take charge, although harder for some than others. Mr. Theary from BAB was patient and helpful. I can only guess that the people were at times too polite to tell us when we were doing things wrong.

Back home, the secret to success is in developing a specialized skill. In so doing, we are far removed from all the things that we consume. Here, survival depends on one's ability to maximize the utility of the land. Resources don't go to waste. Self-sufficiency is key. Virtually all the materials used for the house come from the land: bamboo, logs (sticks may be a more accurate description), rice stalks and cow dung. It's like a real-life episode of survivor. I don't think my wicked excel spreadsheet skills would be of much use here. I admire the people's ability to sustain themselves because if I had to do the same back home, I would likely go hungry. In my 20 years of formal schooling, I don't recall sustainable agriculture ever being on the curriculum. I hope to make the time to grow a garden this summer.

As some of us clung to the roof frame and attached thatch, the others played with the kids... and there is no lack of kids and this is no surprise given that the average Cambodian age is 21 and that the average life expectancy is less than 60 years of age. We played games, threw a ball around, did gymnastics and sang songs. When we showed up they must have wondered what in God's name we were doing there. At first, the kids were very skeptical and shy...almost scared of us, but mesmerized. Shalen is a clown and made animals and flowers with some balloons and the kids loved them! A child's ability to be present, spontaneous and honest never fails to impress me. Tommy was a hit with his gymnastic tricks. Teresa, Courtney and April's games were very well received. The macarena and chicken dance have officially been introduced and well received in rural Cambodia – we all do our little part. It didn't take long before we had the kids wrapped around our fingers. A little love and attention goes a long way. By the end of the day we had a gang of about 15 children chasing and screaming as our bus departed. This is the juice. These moments make it all worthwhile.

Developing Connections: Life-long friendships made.

2008-12-15T13:55:00.000-08:00

December 10th:

Day two at work. Progress was made. Work was done. Bonds re-inforced. Connections established. We went to the crab shacks for dinner. By the time this trip is over I will have eaten more crab in a two week stint than I have in the last few years. The only problem with crab? I burn more calories getting to the meat than I get from consuming it. I lie – there is another problem with crab: it always tastes like more. Vy, Saran and Christina came to dinner with us. Christina is an American ex-pat with a curious English accent who is working with BAB. She gave up her stressful, corporate and material existence (her words) to work indefinitely with BAB in Cambodia. She is radiant. Members of the other group shared their experiences building a house from the ground up in two days. Thanks to them, one impoverished Cambodian family is the proud owner of a sturdy new 'dream home.' By the way, this home is a shack by western standards. It is a square building maybe 12 feet by 12 feet with a thatch roof and walls. No matter, the family was very pleased and proud, as was the group. Their stories of laughter, playing with the kids and of a unique building experience left my group looking very forward to starting our dream home.

Repeat good times from the night before. I am amazed by this group's energy. I don't know if they always have this much energy or if they are going to need a vacation from their working vacation when they get home. I seem to have more energy myself. Maybe its the sun. Maybe its the people. Maybe its the positive energy. Whatever, I like it. Some of us went to bed. Guitars were played. Laughter was had. I enjoyed the company of the ten or so of us that went for a midnight swim in the ocean. Note to self: swim under moonlight again.

I am enjoying this group. The group is such a crucial part of the experience. No doubt, it comes with its challenges as well; people have personalities that don't always mix well and some are better able than others to adapt and focus on the positive. Given our size, to this group's credit, we have all done well and I can confidently say that overall we enjoy each other's company. Some people came as individuals while others have come with their friends. It is interesting to observe the evolving dynamics of the group as people feel increasingly comfortable with each other. It is amazing how well you can get to know people in such a short time when you share the same hotel, eat your meals together, work together and share unique experiences together. This is a group bonding experience and not for those who wish to do it alone.... or who have no intention of learning how to do groups. I enjoy watching people become friends and their is no doubt long-terms relationships will come out of this. On this Developing World Connections experience, I can see clearly that the connections made are as much about those we make with each other as a group as those we make with the community and the locals. This group is relatively homogeneous in age and experience and best described as a group of 'young professionals.' I listen closely to people's conversations about relationships, careers, life paths and ambitions. Processing our experience and learning during the day by relating them with our peers is priceless. We will all go back to our regular lives and some of our relationships may not be sustained. But, no matter. I already now that ten years from now I may stumble across the path of someone from this group who I lost touch with and we will have that instant connection. We will reminisce about the day we built that house together, that time we blew balloons and sang and played with the kids .... about how at once, working together, we felt safe, connected and undaunted by this crazy, big and troubled world.

First Project Day: Group bonding, laughs and hard work.

2008-12-15T13:53:00.000-08:00

December 9th:

Up early, we had pancakes, omelets, juice and fruit for breakfast. More importantly, we had coffee which, to my surprise, was excellent. By 7:30am Cambodian time (i.e. 8am), we were off to work. Our group split into two. One group started building a 'dream home' from scratch while the other was charged with prepping and painting a community building. As part of the second group, I must admit I wasn't too stoked by the prospect of painting all day. I wondered if this wasn't just 'makework'. I reminded myself that this was something a large group could do efficiently and, in so doing, afford the the community time and energy for other things... that there was a purpose to all of this. Our group made the experience and we kept ourselves entertained with jokes, trivia, games and singing. All of us - particularly those of us with office jobs – really enjoyed using our hands and seeing the tangible benefits of our actions. I would love to know what the Cambodian staff working with us was thinking as our boisterous group laughed and laughed, although I can image they think we are a little “loplop” (crazy). Good times.

Both groups met up for a delicious lunch prepared by a women named Saran. Saran takes great pride in her food which is as colourful and delicious as her personality. Saran is a beautiful person inside and out with a genuine and lively spirit. Her smile and laughter are contagious. I am sure I am not the only man in this group who has a secret crush on her. I find the Cambodian people very warm and friendly, if not a little shy. Their character is very endearing. People smile a lot even if, from a Western perspective, many may have less reason to. I would like to make a public vow to complain less and smile more, even when I come home to snow and settle back into the routine of real life. Laughing and smiling feels really good – I needed the reminder. Thanks Cambodia.

After lunch some settled in for a power nap before heading back to work. Myself, I resisted for fear of not wanting to wake up. The group bonding (and work) continued until 4pm. We came home, showered up and headed to the Kep Lodge for drinks and dinner. In keeping with our experience so far, the food was fantastic. By the way, our rooms at the Beach House are also really nice as we have a view overlooking the ocean. Air conditioning at night is a godsend.

In Cambodia, any future Developing World Connections participant need not worry about “roughing it.” On the contrary, if one were looking for a reason to complain, they could argue that we are living in too much luxury. My thoughts? Well, there really isn't really an 'in-between' alternative and our business is appreciated. More importantly, we do deserve it – we work hard. For those with guilty complexes, I suppose our comfort level compared to that of of the people we serve could make them feel uncomfortable. But no such guilt with this group. For me, the privilege of seeing the “poor” conditions of those we serve only reaffirms in me a greater sense of appreciation and gratitude. Besides, soon enough I will be back to wieners and microwave food so I chose to enjoy the good life while it lasts.

After dinner Chrystie led our group in a game of “how well do you know each other”. Everybody shared something interesting about themselves on a piece of paper and then we split into two groups. Each time one group guessed the correct person to which the tidbit applied, it got a point. I regret to inform you that I didn't know that my sister had one foot bigger than the other. I fear that moi, the intrepid leader himself, may have cost my team the game. I was forgiven. We shared more laughs, some more drinks and then we danced and relished in the moment. Fun and laughter is no doubt a major theme on this trip.

What the group's expectations were before the trip.

2008-12-15T13:51:00.000-08:00

December 8th:

Here are some the things people wrote about their expectations before coming on this trip:

“I am motivated to see the world and not from the balcony of some hotel. To really learn about the people, share our experiences and knowledge. I want my son Denver to have the same opportunity in the near future.”

“I want the chance to travel to new worlds, experience different cultures and to be a part of something that extends way beyond myself.”

“I am really looking forward to seeing in action what my brother works hard to promote and make happen.”

“I would like to use this opportunity to grow personally and get to know myself better through out the
adventure!”

“I'm quite excited to be part of this group. What a fantastic opportunity to do something out of the ordinary, to contribute, and to learn! I hope to be a help, not a burden; to meet people, to share stories and make connections;to learn a few new dance moves and to see a new part of the world for me. I also hope to have some great photos and stories to share when I return to Canada.”

“I am excited to learn about Cambodia and its people, and hoping to learn a little about myself as well.
I’d like to contribute, somehow, to making this world a better place for children to inherit. If the sun is out…oh yah I’m motivated!”

“I need to do something that means something beyond my own little world. Spontaneously attempting something out of my comfort zone.”

This group is here for the right reason. This a humble group that understands intuitively the difference between development work and service. This is a hard working bunch of people who needed to get away, gain some perspective and have some fun. So here we are, nourishing our souls and getting what we need while being of service to others. What a fantastic concept. With Developing World Connections, here we are living it.

After the orientation we went to the hotel, settled in and had dinner. The night was ours to enjoy the beach, reflect and rest.

The Group's Arrival in the village of Chamkar Bei

2008-12-15T13:47:00.000-08:00

December 8th:
Looking and feeling surprisingly refreshed, the group was ready to finally discover Kep and the Village of Chamkar Bei and to meet our host partners. An hour or so in, we were all startled by a loud bang. My first thought was that we had hit one of the stray dogs that fearlessly navigate the streets. In fact, we had blown a tire. Experience dictates that, in the developing world, plans should be considered as guidelines and one should always expect the unexpected. Coming from a culture that obsessively manages risk and makes plans to plan, going with the flow doesn't always come easy. For better or worse, in a country like Cambodia, where many people are forced to live day to day, one can see the futility in making rigid plans too far into the future. My travels in the developing world always serve me well as a reminder to make plans, but to stay flexible … and to not allow myself to get bent out of shape when life happens not as planned.

Our bus driver - whose name I won't even attempt to spell – is excellent. He is very shy and even my attempts at non-verbal communication fall short. But, most importantly, he is an excellent driver and we all feel very secure. We took advantage of this time out to munch on some bananas and drink some imitation Red Bull. We took lots of pictures with locals and Shalen even got her hair styled by a lovely girl. (When was the last time you saw a family run, road-side hair salon?) Very little goes to waste here – I could see the cut hair in the compost pile. Whether or not the driver needed help, some of the 'problem solvers' (i.e. the men) jumped and generously offered their brawn. Within half an hour we were back on the road with new used tire.

An hour later we stopped for a lunch and enjoyed the company of the children and seniors hovering around us hoping to sell us gum, tiger balm and trinkets. I always get a kick out the harmless dogs that circle the tables hoping for a scrap of food... and nobody cares. Can you imagine eating at a restaurant in North America with dogs circling? Were the average Cambodian to visit my world, s/he would think we were nothing short of uptight. But when in Rome, do as the Romans do. To my group's credit, nobody has seemed to be bothered by the 'strangeness' of life here (or at least nobody has complained). On the contrary, everybody would appear to enjoy the novelty. We ate an assorted array of dishes. Some of us took advantage of the fact that beer is as cheap as the water. Hesitant at first, many have now buckled and are ignoring the travel nurse's instructions not to have drinks with ice. So far, nobody has gotten sick – fingers crossed.

Bellies full, we sallied forth to the village of Chamcar Bei and to the Bridges Across Borders' (BAB) project site. Here, we met the Bridges Across Borders team and they gave us an orientation. They told us of the important work they do which is comprehensive and sustainable. BAB's work is the epidemy of participatory community development and responsible development practice.
Cambodia's history is horrifically violent. Nothing but time can heal the emotional scars of a traumatized people. Under Pol Pot, from 1974-79, educated people were systematically eliminated and families were torn apart and pitted against one another in a mass murder. The social systems and processes most of us take for granted, and sometimes aren't even aware of, were strategically attacked. Though lacking physical infrastructure and economic capital, it is, above all, Cambodia's social capital and human development that will secure its future. Talking with people, it would seem that most have adopted a spirit of forgiveness. Vy, our lovely Cambodian project manager, pointed out the house where the wife of the former Khmer Rouge boss in this area lives. This area was a Khmer Rouge strong hold. People would have good reason to despise this woman, yet she lives as any member of this community. Being witness to forgiveness and BAB's work gives me hope that Cambodia's future is a brighter one.

At the orientation, BAB's staff asked us why were here. In a group setting, it was interesting to observe everybody's responses: “I am here to learn from you.” “I am here to better understand Cambodian culture.” “I am here to help out where I can.” If anyone had harboured any romantic notions about teaching Cambodians how to be, they were not voiced. Our answers made me feel proud .

Almost in Cambodia via Hong Kong

2008-12-08T09:15:00.000-08:00

December 7th:

We all arrived in Hong Kong a little tired from the flight but excited to explore this new world. With the exception of my sister Bobbi, none of us had ever been to Hong Kong before. As such, for this trip, we have arranged a two night layover here. My sister used to be a flight attendant and knows the city quite well and she has been very helpful.

When we arrived we went straight to the hotel. Ahhh, there is nothing like a hot shower, a decent meal and a vertical nap after a 14 hour flight to refresh the spirit. We will all arrive in Cambodia refreshed and ready to go. Yesterday we took a half day tour of the city. We went to the 'peak' on Hong Kong Island for an impressive view of this incredibly vertical and dense city. Imagine the west end of Vancouver on steroids. As I understand, there are 7 million plus people who live in Hong Kong. It's incredible to think that this many people live in area that is likely no bigger (perhaps smaller) than my city of Kamloops. Kamloops only has 85,000 people! Indeed, land and space are at a premium here and can't be taken for granted. Our tour guide was explaining how the average family lives in 800 square foot apartments in sky scrapper buildings. When he was a child, his family had nine people - do the math.

But despite the lack of space, Hong Kong is most definitely not what I would call “developing” - far from it. Indeed, one would be hard pressed to find many other places on earth with such opulence. Hong Kong is definitely a paradox. It is incredibly clean and organized here on the surface, but we know the water isn't clean. The vendors are assertive but not aggressive. People wait at the cross walk even if there are no cars coming and I don't think it is because of fear of getting a fine, although I could be wrong. There isn't much space but people are very respectful of it. There is no democracy here, but it feels free. It's crazy but calm. Money rules here, and competition is the name of the game. Yet, I sense a genuine generosity of spirit here. People are nice. Many people speak English and those who don't will try with a smile.

I have never seen such incredible infrastructure. I have never seen so many Ferraris, Porches and Roles Royces. The people here are incredibly cosmopolitan and well dressed. It's like one big fashion show. I get the sense that shopping is the number one recreational sport here. Where does all the money come from? Hong Kong ain't cheap either. I am feeling a little over stimulated by the spectacle of all this. The commercialism and materialism is so in your face. Note to self: If I ever come to Hong Kong again, bring some nice clothes and a lot of money. After two days in Hong Kong I feel as I imagine I would feel in Vegas – glad to have gone but ready to leave.

Surely there is an unpleasant underbelly to Hong Kong as it can't all be this shinny and pretentious. No doubt, there is a strong sense of culture and pride that transcends the tourism, the banking and the pretense. We aren't here long enough to understand Hong Kong, just to experience it. I like Hong Kong, but I don't love it.

Today we are off to Cambodia and not a day too soon. Cambodia is our real reason, our real destination and where we seek the meaningful adventure. Juxtaposed to Hong Kong, Cambodia should offer us a starkly different experience. With much anticipation, excitement and a little nervousness, this group is poised and ready. We can make a difference. We don't say it out loud but we all know intuitively that the biggest difference to be made is going to be made in ourselves. By virtue of what a country can offer that is meaningful, Cambodia, we already know, is much wealthier than Hong Kong. We brace ourselves...with arms wide open.

En route to Cambodia

2008-12-08T09:11:00.000-08:00

December 5th:

This meaningful adventure to Cambodia has finally become a reality. After months of preparation and anticipation, here we are, at last, en route to Cambodia. Having waited and waited and waited, to finally be here, past the point of no return, gives me a feeling that can best be described as surreal.

Half the group has started this journey in Kamloops. Getting on to the plane in Kamloops my bags were thoroughly searched and swabbed for bomb materials. Apparently the big toothpaste containers are dangerous and the little ones aren't. Who knew? Oh well, at least I can rest assured that I am safe – at least from Kamloops to Vancouver. I find it ironic and counter intuitive how security checks are always so much better in the small airports as opposed to the larger ones. This is a post 911 world.

We arrived in Vancouver and went through yet another round of security checks and my passport checked another half dozen times. I was pleased to learn something in my bag leaked (insert sarcasm). No matter, at this stage, no small annoyance could dampen (no pun intended) my excitement to meet other members of our team and get this show on the road to Cambodia. We all met up and we chatted, some slept and others played a game of Uno. Amongst peoples' laughter and excitement, I sat back and reveled in some joyful and self-satisfied contemplation about the meaning of all of this. I can't wait to observe people's reactions and live vicariously through the experiences of those who have never been to a developing country. I suddenly developed an acute sense of the extent of my responsibility as well; this doesn't feel like a burden, but rather a privilege. In this moment, my resolve and commitment to these generous people, this experience, our hosts partners and our movement has never been stronger. Like all other Developing World Connections team leaders, I am so pleased to be part of peoples' meaningful experiences.

Inevitably our four hour layover increased to a 5.5 hour layover as we were delayed for mechanical issues. Our 13 hour flight time also increased to 14 hours, I suppose because of the winds. As I write this, I find myself at above 30,000 feet,cramped like a chilled sardine into an impressively large B777-300E. With literally hundreds of people, it's like a floating village up here. Lucky for me, I am sitting, next to crying babies and the bathroom (again, insert sarcasm). Sleep is a luxury I don't expect to get much of in the next hours.

As we boarded the plane we walked through the 'first class' section where people actually had their own beds. I couldn't help thinking that maybe they insist of putting us economy folk in the back of the bus, almost just to rub it in – if I hadn't seen what I was missing, I may not have missed it. Promptly after being seated, the curtain was closed to separate us from those in the front. It dawned on me that the seating on a plane is a metaphor for the social structure of society in the developing world: a vast majority of less-than-comfortable people living next to a small elite. With the curtains closed, those with the privilege of space, good service and food are less bothered by the masses. As we took off, I couldn't help wondering, from an economics point of view, whether it was the first class passengers who were effectively subsidizing the cost of a ticket for the economy class, or vice versa? In any case, if we could have all shared the same space equally, the net increase in comfort would have been drastically disproportionate to the net decrease. In any case, no matter our seat, I am sure we all could agree and hope that our pilots knew what they were doing; God forbid in the case of an emergency we would all go down together.

I suppose one could easily get frustrated by air travel. But, contrary to my complaints, its all good. Given the upbeat and positive disposition of all the participants, it is evident that this group will not be daunted. I suppose, in a way, this is good practice for the inevitable 'spontaneity' of the developing world. Better yet, I consider this nothing less than a personal opportunity to practice surrender. Inflicted with the 'convenience is king' and 'time is money' attitudes prevalent in my culture, just going with the flow doesn't always come easily and I am certainly not immune. However, I do hope this experience will gently challenge me to, at very least, boost my immunity.

So far I can tell we have an excellent group of people. It will be interesting to see how the dynamics evolve when we are challenged. I sense that we all have open minds and a genuine curiosity and desire to be of service. With an air of humility and dispossessed of rigid expectations, we stand poised for nothing less than meaningful adventure.

2008-12-02T13:24:00.000-08:00

Cambodian visa -
All set to go.